Turning a short splice forearm into a fullsplice

hillscues

American Craftsmanship
Silver Member
Well I'm trying to reinvent the wheel . I so wanted to make a short splice cue play like a fullsplice cue . so I built a jig to take a tapered for forearm and splice it into a round handle, this jig lets me work with round and tapered pieces. If you look closely you will see I still have a wood connecting pin in the middle bottom. this jig lets me go in and out of the lathe, but when I make the connection its dead on so I can load it up with points and have no runout.

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more pics!

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now would not be a good time to turn the lathe on!!!!!
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Yes that's a tapered forearm close to size. Now can you picture it loaded up with points and look its dead in the live center with no runout ''WOW'' I've done it.
 
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Yes that's a tapered forearm close to size. Now can you picture it loaded up with points and look its dead in the live center with no runout ''WOW'' I've done it.

That is sweet work. We have built M/W cues with the finger splice, but the pin you used is too cool. The question I have is what was your reasoning to do the splice before the points and veneers were added to the front? Is that where your run-out problems were encountered?
 
That is sweet work. We have built M/W cues with the finger splice, but the pin you used is too cool. The question I have is what was your reasoning to do the splice before the points and veneers were added to the front? Is that where your run-out problems were encountered?

This is the test cue the first one ever. I did not want to wreck a forearm with points . now that it works I will do the next one with points and yes the points go in first just the way You build a short splice.
 
Full splice construction and full splice are not the same.

Many builders claim full splice because the full splice construction is used. If the wood from the tip of the point does not continue to the back of the handleor wrap it is not a full splice cue. It might as well be short splice.
A full spliced forearm and a full spliced cue are not the same. More than one top builder claim full splice cue builds that are not. They have a full splice forearm.
Nick :)
 
Very ingenious and great pics, Darrin. Thanks for sharing and Happy Holidays to you guys !!

Sean
 
Many builders claim full splice because the full splice construction is used. If the wood from the tip of the point does not continue to the back of the handleor wrap it is not a full splice cue. It might as well be short splice.
A full spliced forearm and a full spliced cue are not the same. More than one top builder claim full splice cue builds that are not. They have a full splice forearm.
Nick :)

maybe take em to fullsplice court and let the jury decide.
 
I have built a jig to cut the v splice in the bandsaw . this will allow me to cut it fast and control the the fit. I do know this is not fullsplice . its a half splice ,though its much stiffer than a cue with a tenon and a pin . I have had thousands of cues in the lathe over the years and if you have this cue in the lathe between centers you can feel how much stiffer it is . I know you can tell at the table.

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The jig in action , it's amazing how good it works. the cut is so smooth no sanding needed . I just changed the blade , also your blade must run perfectly strait mine does. notice the sick piece of amboyna burl is cored . the forearm will feature 8 points loaded with veneers after i cut the points in it will get the mate in the two jigs.

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Darrin that is so cool , I and other wannabe cue builders really appreciate you showing us this stuff . You are really putting is a lot of time and energy and shareing this is Unbeleivable. Thanks Jim
 
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I think this is a wonderful idea. How much extra time does it take to make the cut and glue? It looks like your jig saves you a ton of time.

Patrick
 
Hmm, can you glue veneers to that? I'm thinking a new wrapless plain jane model...

Very nice, thanks for sharing!

-roger
 
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