stitch/slot rings
- Thread starter deadbeat
- Start date
I use a drum sander for this job. I use a peice of wood that is 2" wide 1" thick and 16" long that is perfectly flat, then I stick a peice of 180 grit sticky backed sandpaper on top of this board so I can lay my billet strip on top of the sandpaper and run them thru the sander and get them to whatever thickness I need. The sticky backed sandpaper holds the peice that I want to sand in place with no slipping.
This works well for me and the thickness is all uniform when done.
Busbee's way is the best, IMO, but sometimes one just doesn't have the tools to do this or the money.....($700 and up) You can buy veneers from someone like Jazznpool, here on AZ. And then buy a mill bit that matches slightly under the thickness of the veneers, then sand the veneers SLIGHTLY, just enough to fit the slots. There are many ways to skin this cat, and you will hear a few different techniques, hopefully.
Dave
I would like to know what size bits are commonly used for those szamboti style rings where you have a natural/red/natural.....
or,
what about those stitch rings like the old Schons,
or,
the Tad style checkered?
this is something I haven't done yet and I am wanting to get this set up.
Thanks, guys.
or,
what about those stitch rings like the old Schons,
or,
the Tad style checkered?
this is something I haven't done yet and I am wanting to get this set up.
Thanks, guys.
For many years, before I obtained a CNC that now does the task, I would mike the glued up veneer stack, then use a standard size end mill (.031, .062, .125 or such), but less than this width. I would make my initial pass to depth and then rotate my indexer a degree or two so as to make the width of the cut sufficient for the veneer stack. I had a Atlas lathe set up and only using a indexer and tail stock, but not the chuck, I could cut these pockets under power. I now just draw a program and use either a .0312 or .0625 end mill to cut the slot to perfect size. Technology is truly wonderful.
Dick
Dick
Dick Technology is wonderful, and Expencive . Huh !!!!!!
Learning the hard way first....
Dick...
As a new cue maker, I am just completing my first set of stitch rings. I am doing maple and cocobolo rings and currently my equipment only consists of a table saw, band saw, and cuesmith deluxe with router. So I cut each slot with the router and then cut all the small 1/4" strips slightly oversized on the table saw and then hand sanded each one to a really snug fit. I just glued up the slots tonight and found out that the 30 min (slow cure) BSI atlas epoxy really wasn’t as slow or long working as I expected... I found myself rushing as things were getting pretty thick and sticky by the time I was putting in my last two slots. I can only imagine how nice CNC would be especially for making perfect slots and perfect parts, but I also feel like I need to do it the hard way and appreciate the different ways of doing it, before I can ever consider a cnc in the future. I'm just hoping that this first set turns out nice... it will be worth all the work.
By the way, what kind of epoxy do most people use for things like rings?? I might as well have used devcon, since this bsi slow cure didn't seem to have much more working time at all?
Spencer
Dick...
As a new cue maker, I am just completing my first set of stitch rings. I am doing maple and cocobolo rings and currently my equipment only consists of a table saw, band saw, and cuesmith deluxe with router. So I cut each slot with the router and then cut all the small 1/4" strips slightly oversized on the table saw and then hand sanded each one to a really snug fit. I just glued up the slots tonight and found out that the 30 min (slow cure) BSI atlas epoxy really wasn’t as slow or long working as I expected... I found myself rushing as things were getting pretty thick and sticky by the time I was putting in my last two slots. I can only imagine how nice CNC would be especially for making perfect slots and perfect parts, but I also feel like I need to do it the hard way and appreciate the different ways of doing it, before I can ever consider a cnc in the future. I'm just hoping that this first set turns out nice... it will be worth all the work.
By the way, what kind of epoxy do most people use for things like rings?? I might as well have used devcon, since this bsi slow cure didn't seem to have much more working time at all?
Spencer
Epoxy vs other glues
KJ,
I considered using Titebond II, but I wasn't sure if something like titebond might create or show more of a clue line versus a fairly clear slow cure epoxy? I might try the titebond in the future... but that is why I put the question out there to see what others are using?
I am also planning on trying some rings with metal slots and I'm sure I will probably want to use the epoxy with these since I will be bonding wood and metal, but would titebond have been a better solution for the wood to wood stitches??
Thanks,
Spencer
KJ,
I considered using Titebond II, but I wasn't sure if something like titebond might create or show more of a clue line versus a fairly clear slow cure epoxy? I might try the titebond in the future... but that is why I put the question out there to see what others are using?
I am also planning on trying some rings with metal slots and I'm sure I will probably want to use the epoxy with these since I will be bonding wood and metal, but would titebond have been a better solution for the wood to wood stitches??
Thanks,
Spencer
One important thing to remember with epoxy is that the more you mix in a cup, at once, the more heat it will generate from the curing process taking place. The more heat, the faster it will start to setup. I have found that the smaller the cup diameter, the more heat buildup. If you use a bigger cup, and still mix the same amount, it should last longer before starting to get thicker. Also important is that you measure the hardener to resin ratio as close as possible. It can mean the difference between curing too quickly, curing perfectly, or not at all.
I haven't used Titebond yet for rings so I have no input on that. If KJ suggests it, then I'd give it a try. I personally would only use it for wood to wood or wood to fiber stuff, not on metal or plastics.
Enjoy,
Dave
I haven't used Titebond yet for rings so I have no input on that. If KJ suggests it, then I'd give it a try. I personally would only use it for wood to wood or wood to fiber stuff, not on metal or plastics.
Enjoy,
Dave
amount mixed...
Dave,
I think you might be right with it having to do with the amount mixed. I measured the resin and hardner on a scale and mixed up a little larger amount and towards the end I noticed it heating up and thickening. I will try using a bigger cup or larger area to mix in the future if I use this epoxy again. I guess like many things, I will probably experiment with a couple different methods either way...
I really appreciate your advice and that you took the time to share your ideas.
Thanks again,
Spencer
Dave,
I think you might be right with it having to do with the amount mixed. I measured the resin and hardner on a scale and mixed up a little larger amount and towards the end I noticed it heating up and thickening. I will try using a bigger cup or larger area to mix in the future if I use this epoxy again. I guess like many things, I will probably experiment with a couple different methods either way...
I really appreciate your advice and that you took the time to share your ideas.
Thanks again,
Spencer
