Gold Cup table

Jim Vondrell said:
Did you check the diamond cushions on the rails before returning them because if your nose height was to high with k66 then the k55's may have been better with other measurements to check as well. To replace with k66 again you will have to modify the subrails down a couple degrees to drop the nose height were it should be if it was to high
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I thought the same thing before the k55 arrived. I took off the existing cushions, and when I held a k55 to it, I knew they were not compatible without some adjustments. I wasn't sure what (cheap) options I had, so yes, I considered making the adjustments. Someone commented on the post that k66 was the correct profile, and they are right. Unfortunately, I believe I ordered the k55s like a day or two before their post.
 
Dartman said:
We're flying one-eyed here. Just reread the OP and he said rail height (assuming nose height) is 1.5" using 66. Someone else commented the table takes 66 so it seems we're assuming this is correct. Guessing he hasn't removed the existing cushions yet so we have no read on the height of the subrail face as a better indicator of the right cushion to use (assuming no previous modification). If there's a gap at the bottom of the present cushion it's probably wrong.
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There was no gap, it takes k66. So now I just need to figure out what k66 cushions to get I guess. And put them on more carefully, making sure I get the rail height absolutely perfect.

When applying the cushions are you supposed to make the rail height a tad higher near the corner pockets to offset how stretching the felt lowers the rail a bit?
 
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youngstownkid said:
There was no gap, it takes k66. So now I just need to figure out what k66 cushions to get I guess. And put them on more carefully, making sure I get the rail height absolutely perfect.

When applying the cushions are you supposed to make the rail height a tad highter near the corner pockets to offset how stretching the felt lowers the rail a bit?
Click to expand...

The cushion nose height needs to be consistent end to end - you don't stretch cloth around the cushion like you would on slate.
As for cushions you can spring the big $ for artemis or go for a more standard cushion like tour ed, pro-am, proform, etc. which all
come from the far east, play decent and are less $.
 
i only pull the felt tight near the corner pockets. I thought you had to pull it tight near the corners to get it to not wrinkle. Along the rest of the rail, I don't pull it tight, just snug.
 

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trial run

my friend went thru a rough spell recently so it took a while for him to make the prelim sub rail extentions, but finally got around to it last weekend. He made a couple different sizes for me to try out - a set of 3/4" extensions and a set of 5/8" extensions for the corners, and a set of 5/8" extensions for the side pockets.

using the old rubber i had lying around i was about to measure the size the corners pockets would be with 3/4" extensions - and they come out to be 3 3/4" before adding facings.

using the 5/8" extensions on the corners - they come out to be exactly 4" before adding facings.

using the 5/8" extensions on the sides - they come out to be 4 7/8" before adding facings.

so my question is this. how tight is too tight for the corners? for the sides?

my current table (which doesn't have much of a shelf) is slightly under 4.5 at the corners and 5 for the sides. using either size for the corner extension would tighten them down very much more so than the extensions for the side.

I'm thinking about using 5/8" extension for the corners, which means 3 3/4" pockets if using a single facing, 3 1/2 if i use the double thick facing. i would start with the single, then would have the easy option of using a double next time i refelt to make it tigher if i wanted to do so.

however, for the sides, i don't think the 5/8" extensions will work. they're not tight enough compared to the corners, but i'm not sure what the side pockets should be exactly in relation to the corner. i'd appreciate any thoughts you guys would share.
 
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Side pocket

Are you making the side pocket 6 inches??? Just get 5 gallon buckets instead.. All this work then do 5 inchvon sides and 4-1/2 corners.... Am I missing something here?
Really 6 inch side pockets?
 
Post

Ok I had to go back and read your whole post.


Tourny pockets are 4-1/2 corners and 5 on the sides.
 
Servicky said:
Are you making the side pocket 6 inches??? Just get 5 gallon buckets instead.. All this work then do 5 inchvon sides and 4-1/2 corners.... Am I missing something here?
Really 6 inch side pockets?
Click to expand...

I noticed the one pic was misleading, the tape measure was laying on the table, so it was an illusion that it looked so big.
 
Pocket sizes

The BCA and WPBA specs for pockets are the same and are here:
http://www.wpa-pool.com/index.asp?content=rules_spec

In essence, they say 4.5 to 4.625 inches at the mouth of the corner pockets, and 5.0 to 5.125 inches at the mouth of the side pockets. To quote: "The mouth of the side pocket is traditionally one-half inch wider than the mouth of the corner pocket."
 
Cool, can't wait to see what it looks like finished. I still need to get someone out here to work on my table.
 
i wasn't thrilled about how long it took the guy to make the sub rail extensions, prob should have just done it myself, but he finally got them "done". i had to change the way the back was cut on the corners. I also had to an additional cut on each of the side pocket extensions, see next post.
 
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more modifications

Not good
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I can't fit my hand in the size pocket to get the balls!
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Hopefully this will be better
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"finished" the table last night. didn't nail in the pockets yet though, b/c might end up redoing the sides since they came out smaller than i planned.

new felt
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corner pockets are just under 3.75
picture.php


side pockets are 3.5
picture.php
 
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