I'm not looking for anything real fancy, I just want to be able to make some sneakys and do cue repairs with it. Thanks!
Joe
Joe
WTB: Lathe to make sneakys with
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hey friend just shopped for one on here myself. Go with a tsp&b lathe! - seems to be the most bang for your buck in a lot of different options. Contact him- tsp&b
Is this the Joe who used to shoot at Coonies with red hair?
Is this the Joe who used to shoot at Coonies with red hair?
I've looked at those tsp&b lathes, but they are not for building cues, even sneakys. As far as me having red hair, that's a negative, lol. I have played coonie before tho. Got my ass handed to me too! Lol! Where are you located?
Joe
look on craigslist for a metal lathe with at least 36 inches between centers and a 1 3/8 through hole. if you have the room its the best way to go. all you would need is a rear chuck. you can then get aper bars or just offset your tailstock.
eventually sneakies will turn into widows then points and so forth and you will be glad you went this way.
eventually sneakies will turn into widows then points and so forth and you will be glad you went this way.
Joe
All my Cue Lathe models are capable of making sneaky cues
Check them out, they are all listed here on AZ, here's a couple
Let me know if you have any questions, you can get one as low as $899 loaded.
Regards
Bassel
Www.customcuelathes.com
248-884-4469
Customcuelathes@yahoo.com
Lathe
Hi Joe, the lathe posted looks good, but you will need a little longer bed, i have a couple of HighTower lathes and even with a 6' bed their are times i would like to have another foot longer for the support, and the ability to move the supports brackets so the collets can be in the right place, their will be times where you would like to support the very end of the butt with a full cue, or a two piece doing joint work. If you can get this machine posted with at least a 6' bed it looks like it would do a good job, but if not look for a HT with the DC motor.
Just my 2 pennies
Hi Joe, the lathe posted looks good, but you will need a little longer bed, i have a couple of HighTower lathes and even with a 6' bed their are times i would like to have another foot longer for the support, and the ability to move the supports brackets so the collets can be in the right place, their will be times where you would like to support the very end of the butt with a full cue, or a two piece doing joint work. If you can get this machine posted with at least a 6' bed it looks like it would do a good job, but if not look for a HT with the DC motor.
Just my 2 pennies
I have a few of Bassel's custom cue lathes. I've been building Sneaky's using his repair lathe with a 48" bed with no major problems. You'll also need the 1.4" through hole. As JimBob stated the longer bed would be nice, not necessary for building sneaky pete's but for doing tip work on house cues it would be nice. Ive been doing a bunch of house cues tips lately with only the 48" bed. When I move all my equipment in to my workshop I will have the extension to use when I need it. If you do deem it necessary to have a longer bed, Bassel offers the bed extension, or a complete 6' foot bed. IMHO Bassel builds solid and affordable equipment and provides great support.
Richard
I do all repairs with a tsp&b including cutting house cues to make sneaky's out of them
I was also going to say tsp&b makes different models of lathes too. I think all the Taig based cue repair lathes built on a long enough metal bed with a large bore head stock are capable of the process required to convert a house cue in to a sneaky pete.
Richard
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I think Chris sells a bed extension that will work. I've found the only time I really don't have enough bed way is when tipping 1 pc houses, and I just made a little steady that mounts to My bench behind the end of the bed way, to hold the back of them better. It works fine for that.
Where I have My headstock located now, is perfect for working on 2 piece cues though. even when doing joint work there is still plenty of bed-way behind the headstock to use the stock steady rest. I just make collets out of delrin to fit the in-between sizes, and that helps locate the steady rest where I need It should one of the stock collets not get me there.
I didn't realize there were that many options out there! You guys are a world of info! I have plenty of options to consider! Thanks!
Joe
Joe
You'll need a couple of extra items if you want to build a sneaky.
Band or table saw, a taper jig to make the lower prong for example.
But, the most important thing for now is a good cue building lathe.
And wood, lots a wood.
Band or table saw, a taper jig to make the lower prong for example.
But, the most important thing for now is a good cue building lathe.
And wood, lots a wood.
I have several offers on the table, and I'm leaning toward one in particular, but I just need to know if I need a taper bar and a power feed? Also, can these lathes like the custom cue lathe be modified later with a taper bar and power feed??? Just to be clear, I have no clue how to use a lathe, but I've read a little about these cue lathes, and some advertise 1.4" headstock, or 1/3 hp motor and so on, and I understand these things, but I have no idea what a taper bar or power feed even look like, lol. I have a few people who have offered to help me out, and believe me, I will take em up on it, lol. I apologize for my ignorance, but I'm not gonna try to bs my way through this. I'm just thankful for this site!
Joe
Joe
One more thing, I forgot to mentin that I would like to make some steel jointed sneakys with my lathe also. I'm not sure if this changes anything, but I figured id mention it.
Joe
Joe
Don't apologize for anything, the best part is that you're interested in learning. Everyone gets their start somewhere and here is the best place.
Burnettsville, about 10 minutes from Logansport. I used to work at coonies before they closed the doors.Thought u were a different Joe. You play at Ryans any? Good luck on lathe!
First and foremost, buy Chris's book and DVDs on repair and building.
Also Joe Barringers as he offers his ideas and methods. Nothing wrong with learning 2 different ways.
I truly believe that learning the cue repair trade is the first major step in learning how to build cues.
I love your enthusiasm but first things first.
You see the end goal Grasshopper but each little step is a stepping stone in a pond, you must touch each one before you reach the other side.
After a year of studying, a couple of lathes and a ton of goodies, a year or so of just repairing and conversions, I am just starting to consider building cues this winter. Now, your ability might be much quicker than mine and if so, thats a good thing.
Just sayin, thats all.
SS joints are cool but they come a long way after pins, inserts, plugging holes, drill, bore, tap, phenolic collars, ferrules, tenons etc.
Do you have a Community College in your area that offers night classes in Lathes and milling machines?
If you do, please consider taking just one class in Lathe 101. That will give you so much insight into this craft.
Altho, I have to say that after watching the first DVD in Chris's library on lathe operation and repair, you should have the ability
to start working with your lathe. The DVD is just that good.
Also Joe Barringers as he offers his ideas and methods. Nothing wrong with learning 2 different ways.
I truly believe that learning the cue repair trade is the first major step in learning how to build cues.
I love your enthusiasm but first things first.
You see the end goal Grasshopper but each little step is a stepping stone in a pond, you must touch each one before you reach the other side.
After a year of studying, a couple of lathes and a ton of goodies, a year or so of just repairing and conversions, I am just starting to consider building cues this winter. Now, your ability might be much quicker than mine and if so, thats a good thing.
Just sayin, thats all.
SS joints are cool but they come a long way after pins, inserts, plugging holes, drill, bore, tap, phenolic collars, ferrules, tenons etc.
Do you have a Community College in your area that offers night classes in Lathes and milling machines?
If you do, please consider taking just one class in Lathe 101. That will give you so much insight into this craft.
Altho, I have to say that after watching the first DVD in Chris's library on lathe operation and repair, you should have the ability
to start working with your lathe. The DVD is just that good.
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Joe
Just to clear couple of things about my lathe line up. First you can customize your lathe any way you want, lathe bed up to 70", motors 1/3hp, 1/2hp, or 3/4hp. Small headstock, big headstock etc.
All my H-Channel based lathes are fully upgradable for auto feed and taper bar.
If you have any more questions, you can call me @ 248-884-4469 or email to: customcuelathes@yahoo.com
My recommendation is to buy a repair lathe, with 1-3/8" bore headstock and 48" bed and as many learning DVDs as you can find first, then 1 year later, if you feel you are ready for the next step (building cues) you can then order a taper bar and auto feed combo.
Best Regards
I truly believe that learning the cue repair trade is the first major step in learning how to build cues.
I say enroll at your local community college and learn machining before they take all of those classes out.
I say enroll at your local community college and learn machining before they take all of those classes out.