Sandpaper vs razor for shaping tip

[hdgis1]

I heard it mentioned that using sandpaper to shape a layered tip can cause de-lamination. I would have thought that sandpaper would be the safer of the two methods. It seems to me that when using a razor laid flat on a support that you aren't cutting or shearing leather, just tearing it off. What say ye all?

Chris

 

[dunkelcustomcue]

I use a razor. Always have a little piece of wet napkin that I dampen the leather with prior to cutting.

 

[conetip]

If the paper is not sharp,or is loaded, heat will be generated,that heat destroys the glue layer, inturn causing damage to the tip.
A dull blade can cause just as much damage also.
Take your pick, but if the tools are sharp, there is no difference.

 

[hdgis1]

If the paper is not sharp,or is loaded, heat will be generated,that heat destroys the glue layer, inturn causing damage to the tip.
A dull blade can cause just as much damage also.
Take your pick, but if the tools are sharp, there is no difference.

Is there an alternative method for burnishing that doesn't produce heat?
Chris

 

[conetip]

Is there an alternative method for burnishing that doesn't produce heat?
Chris

You certainly can burnish with heat that is less than burning your fingers.
Rubbing the sides of the tip with a very smooth something well. I use a piece of polished shim stock .

 

[rhncue]

I was under the impression that you should never attempt to burnish a layered tip.

Dick

 

[hdgis1]

I've seen em both ways. Never seems to be a problem. I sand mine with 2000 and put a hit of wax on there.

Chris

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

I have used 60 grit sandpaper, for 27 yrs. 4-5 strokes, then pause & hit it again. NEVER had a problem. 60 grit cuts the leather, finer grit create tons of heat. As for the sides I always burnish. Again, no problems...JER

 

[cuejo]

I like the tip shaper from unique, so much that I adapted one for my deluxe...

I also always burnish layered tips...to my knowledge I've never had premature delamination

 

[SeanC]

Is there an alternative method for burnishing that doesn't produce heat?
Chris

Chris, you know English is not my native language, but I thought the verb "to burnish" came from the verb "to burn". That is some heat is needed so as to harden the sides and polish it, but not so much that would cause it to burn.

I may have been wrong all along though

 

[hdgis1]

Chris, you know English is not my native language, but I thought the verb "to burnish" came from the verb "to burn". That is some heat is needed so as to harden the sides and polish it, but not so much that would cause it to burn.

I may have been wrong all along though

Thanks wise guy! You ready for that micarta ferrule yet? :thumbup:

Chris

 

[SeanC]

Thanks wise guy! You ready for that micarta ferrule yet? :thumbup:

Chris

Well, you told me last time that it silences the hit somewhat? I was hoping for the opposite as the hit is already quite dull on the 314-2 shaft. I am after a crisp hit while retaining the low-deflection characteristics... So not quite sure yet :scratchhead:

 

[hdgis1]

Based on my limited experience, it is quieter than iv3. Id say its probably harder than predator ferrules. Though there is little to no data available about ferrule hardness, its really a guess on my part. If I remember correctly, according to bob dzurickys website it is closest by weight to maple so deflection shouldn't increase.

Chris