New headstock runout video 0.0005"......

Bassel, are you selling just the Headstock? I assume this fits on a standard Taig sized bed. what is the price? PM if you like.
 
runout

i'D be very interested in a cuemaking lathe with 1/2 a thousandth tro.
would make my world much easier...
JerseyBill
 
bruppert said:
Bassel, are you selling just the Headstock? I assume this fits on a standard Taig sized bed. what is the price? PM if you like.
Click to expand...

This headstock will work on any taig dovetail base lathe. I tried to keep the cost the same or close to my previously sold headstocks.

The Tall (deluxe height) Headstock with 1/3HP DC Motor with reverse switch and one chuck. $665 shipped

Regular height Headstock with 1/3HP DC Motor with reverse switch and one chuck. $640 shipped

Regards
 
Bassel,

That is pretty good for a 3 jaw. It looks like there's a boring bar in the toolpost. Boring the jaws gives minimal runout for the size that the jaws were bored. Was this video after you bored the jaws and are you going to do that on all your headstocks before shipping so people can expect this kind of accuracy out of the box?

Another good test to give prospective buyers an idea of reasonable expectations would be chucking up on several workpieces showing accuracy and repeatability across a range of sizes. You know, chuck up on something around 1.25, .825 and .515 and show the runout on those pieces. For repeatability- do it a few times in an uncut video.

Good to see you're making progress. I just don't want you to shoot yourself in the foot touting .0005 runout if it isn't repeatable across a range of sizes. Setting reasonable expectations will make your life easier.

Best,
Beau
 
when i noticed the boring bar i was thinking the same. Kinda read my mind with out reading all of the posts
 
Of course it was bored. If a scroll chuck, especially one for a Taig, is that accurate out of the box then it was a accident.

Not meaning to bash but if you are worried about four decimal places then a Taig based machine is not the one for you.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk
 
Guess one could get different chucks for different dia., or step them for different sizes.
 
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JoeyInCali said:
A3-jaw scroll chuck is not supposed to be that accurate.
Click to expand...

Hi,

I agree. Having .0005 is not reasonable and expecting that to be repeatable is non sense.

If you move the head stock on the dove tail I bet things could change a little.

Brianna claimed his was accurate to .0002 when he was selling them? That did not work for him as a good sales pitch. Everyone here jumped on him like a pack of dogs.

I'll keep my 6 jaw buck chuck on my Enco (China Lathe) for accurate repeatability. If mine is 1/4" thou off in TRO I leave it alone, it's just fine for making a pool cue. A piece of wax paper shim on the outside of my collet and my pins are very close to dead on every time.

Rick
 
Call me picky but at 2:20 into the video, I'm seeing .010" on the indicator. What's that all about?

This is one reason I still prefer old school dial indicators vs. digital.
 
I think what he is demonstrating is that the new bearings and set up is much better than the previous bearings that have been used.
Very good 3 jaw chucks will run to .01mm TIR,but they cost more than these lathes.
Ofcourse,the more accurate you go,the more you have to spend on bearings and the materials the headstocks are made and how the are made.
Precision does cost, after a certain point,you have to pay alot for a very small gain.
Most that want precision, either use 4 jaw chucks, or orientated collets.
I think it is good that Bassel is actively improving his product.
It can also be assumed that other makers of equipment are also improving their products as well.
 
ELBeau said:
Bassel,

That is pretty good for a 3 jaw. It looks like there's a boring bar in the toolpost. Boring the jaws gives minimal runout for the size that the jaws were bored. Was this video after you bored the jaws and are you going to do that on all your headstocks before shipping so people can expect this kind of accuracy out of the box?

Another good test to give prospective buyers an idea of reasonable expectations would be chucking up on several workpieces showing accuracy and repeatability across a range of sizes. You know, chuck up on something around 1.25, .825 and .515 and show the runout on those pieces. For repeatability- do it a few times in an uncut video.

Good to see you're making progress. I just don't want you to shoot yourself in the foot touting .0005 runout if it isn't repeatable across a range of sizes. Setting reasonable expectations will make your life easier.

Best,
Beau
Click to expand...

Beau
Thanks for the good advise. Just a quick note. I can't possibly garantee that every headstock I produce will have that good of a runout. This is the first sample I received. Ad for my expectations, well for starters every machine / headstock I sell gets the same test, jaws bored out, runout measured and communicated to the customer. One more thing, I just bought the digital dial indicator, and thought it would be the nuts, but it increases by 0.0005 increments, so the more I thought about it the more it started to sound untrue, so I watched the video again and noticed it actually fluctuate between -0.0005"and +0.0005", which means 0.001" run out, and that still is great, but at medium speed with motor running 50%, and motor vibration at minimum, the indicator was showing 0 movement. So I went back this afternoon and checked it again with my old indicator, and it measured between 0.0005" and 0.0011" pretty repeatable. I am still happy with that, and my expectations are for all my new headstocks to be less than 0.002". I must add that I believe 0.0005" runout is achievable, but you will have to carefully and properly bar the jaws, and the lathe be will need to be bolted down solid to a very stable heavy bench, then you would need to pre-support the motor very securely so that any possible vibration from the motor will not affect the headstock runout.

Best Regards
Bassel
Ps: I now accept credit cards / Debit cards payment ( no international credit or debit cards
 
dzcues said:
Call me picky but at 2:20 into the video, I'm seeing .010" on the indicator. What's that all about?

This is one reason I still prefer old school dial indicators vs. digital.
Click to expand...

I thought I would like my high end Starrett's, but it seems like getting a true reading is a hassle. It could be just me and I KNOW .0003 is insignificant with most things, but I hate zeroing and then having .0005 pop up with my next reading. Yah...I know....I know...
 
customcuelathe said:
Beau
Thanks for the good advise. Just a quick note. I can't possibly garantee that every headstock I produce will have that good of a runout. This is the first sample I received. Ad for my expectations, well for starters every machine / headstock I sell gets the same test, jaws bored out, runout measured and communicated to the customer. One more thing, I just bought the digital dial indicator, and thought it would be the nuts, but it increases by 0.0005 increments, so the more I thought about it the more it started to sound untrue, so I watched the video again and noticed it actually fluctuate between -0.0005"and +0.0005", which means 0.001" run out, and that still is great, but at medium speed with motor running 50%, and motor vibration at minimum, the indicator was showing 0 movement. So I went back this afternoon and checked it again with my old indicator, and it measured between 0.0005" and 0.0011" pretty repeatable. I am still happy with that, and my expectations are for all my new headstocks to be less than 0.002". I must add that I believe 0.0005" runout is achievable, but you will have to carefully and properly bar the jaws, and the lathe be will need to be bolted down solid to a very stable heavy bench, then you would need to pre-support the motor very securely so that any possible vibration from the motor will not affect the headstock runout.

Best Regards
Bassel
Ps: I now accept credit cards / Debit cards payment ( no international credit or debit cards
Click to expand...


Using questions and comments, such as were posted, and answering them in a gentlemanly fashion is to your advantage. I think you did well in that regard.
 
dzcues said:
Call me picky but at 2:20 into the video, I'm seeing .010" on the indicator. What's that all about?

This is one reason I still prefer old school dial indicators vs. digital.
Click to expand...

The reason it's jumped to 10 is because I adjusted the dial indicator further in to prove that the measurement is real not fake, you can lock your indicator just before it toughs the pin and say you have 0 runout, when I dialed it in and the results of it's fluctuation stayed the same +/-0.0005" so that was the proof that I wasn't cheating my measurement.
Regards
 
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customcuelathe said:
The reason it's jumped to 10 is because I adjusted the dial indicator further in to prove that the measurement is real not fake, you can lock your indicator just before it toughs the pin and say you have 0 runout, when I dialed it in and the results of it's fluctuation stayed the same +/-0.0005" so that was the proof that I wasn't cheating my measurement.
Regards
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarification.
 
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