White Tail Deer "Antlers"

[GBCues]

As far as the cosmetics are concerned, have you guys tried bleaching them in simple hydrogen peroxide that you get from the grocery store or pharmacy? My buckhorn ferrule blanks came out much whiter after a 48 soak - I changed out the peroxide with fresh after 24 hours. I haven't turned any down yet, so I'm not sure how deep they got bleached, but I can bleach them again before installation if that becomes a problem. That low grade peroxide doesn't seem to eat up the surface.

Just a thought

Gary

 

[desi2960]

again its just my experence

i tried the bleach on some elk and deer antler, next morning i had antler soup, the bleach had dissolved the antlers.
also i find the sheds to be better, a killed animal still has blood in the antlers, sheds are drier i.e. whiter

 

[MVPCues]

i tried the bleach on some elk and deer antler, next morning i had antler soup, the bleach had dissolved the antlers.
also i find the sheds to be better, a killed animal still has blood in the antlers, sheds are drier i.e. whiter

I have never bleached any of mine, but I know some guys do it. I have read up some on using peroxide for bleaching bones. Taxidermists do it. But, they do it in 15 or 30 minute sessions. Soaking overnight, I am not surprised at all your material was completely dissolved.

I think 24 or 48 hours is very extreme. I think the integrity of the material HAS to be compromised with that kind of duration. But, since I don't do it, I don't have a frame of reference, so I could be wrong.

Kelly

 

[JoeyInCali]

I have never bleached any of mine, but I know some guys do it. I have read up some on using peroxide for bleaching bones. Taxidermists do it. But, they do it in 15 or 30 minute sessions. Soaking overnight, I am not surprised at all your material was completely dissolved.

I think 24 or 48 hours is very extreme. I think the integrity of the material HAS to be compromised with that kind of duration. But, since I don't do it, I don't have a frame of reference, so I could be wrong.

Kelly

You can soak them on a mix of hydrogen peroxide and about 25% acetone.
It softens them though.
The good thing is , the inside absorbs epoxy real well.

 

[JUSTABANGER 2]

i tried the bleach on some elk and deer antler, next morning i had antler soup, the bleach had dissolved the antlers.
also i find the sheds to be better, a killed animal still has blood in the antlers, sheds are drier i.e. whiter

I don't know about bleach but there isn't any blood in antlers once the they have hardened and what is called velvet has been rubbed off. The blood is only in them in the spring and early summer while their growing. After that its like dead bone. After breeding season whitch is called the Rut is over there testorone level drops and shortly after that they drop their antlers. I've seen many an antler blowen off during shotgun season and they never have any blood in them.

 

[desi2960]

i stand corrected

justabanger2 thanks for the info on the blood in antlers, but i have sheds that i find locally, and pieces that i buy from a antler dealer from kills. the sheds always are whiter.

 

[JUSTABANGER 2]

justabanger2 thanks for the info on the blood in antlers, but i have sheds that i find locally, and pieces that i buy from a antler dealer from kills. the sheds always are whiter.

Yeah, It seems the weather and the sun bleach them out. But no matter where you get them they reek when you cut them.

 

[Cue Crazy]

Any way you could post a picture of this? My minds eye is blind at this time:smile:.

It's really nothing special just something simple that made marking centers easier. Here's a couple of pictures of one example. I think this piece of ferrule material was already bored out, so the blue tape on the scribe was on there just as quick fix to get a tighter fit. This simple little device is particularly
useful when centering tines pieces which is where some of the best ferrule material comes from IMO.

As for the bleaching that someone else mentioned. I have advised several people not to use bleach for this. I believe the use of bleach is what gives the term bleaching a bad reputation. Regular bleach will whiten, but as has already been mentioned will also erode the material. I also know this from My first attempt in the past. That's when I looked for the alternative that people are referring to, found It on craft forums where people used the method for whitening bones, and It has worked well for me every since. They make pastes for the same thing, but I do not believe that they penetrate deep enough for our purposes, they do however consist of the same ingredient though.

 

[Cue Crazy]

You can soak them on a mix of hydrogen peroxide and about 25% acetone.
It softens them though.
The good thing is , the inside absorbs epoxy real well.

Joey, I've never used the acetone added to It. What is the purpose that It serves?

 

[JoeyInCali]

Joey, I've never used the acetone added to It. What is the purpose that It serves?

It makes it more volatile and explosive.
Try ethyl alcohol instead .

I don't bleach mine anymore b/c it makes them softer.

There are two species I use that make up for real clean collars.

 

[Cue Crazy]

It makes it more volatile and explosive.
Try ethyl alcohol instead .

I don't bleach mine anymore b/c it makes them softer.

There are two species I use that make up for real clean collars.

When It comes to firearms I enjoy a big bang the same as anyone else, but not on My cues I can only assume that It is for cleaning purposes, maybe to help sealer stick to It. I was recently asked If I had any problem with epoxy sticking, but I couldn't remember ever having that issue before.

 

[Nevaskard]

thanks for all the replys.

Im going to get some Antlers from my friend and start this adventure!

What are some other, Not really known Exotic natural materials(Like Narwal whale Horn or something) used for anything cue related that you have worked with and had success...please explain your procedure if your willing!

Whale horn was a joke by the way! SAVE THE WHALES!