Help with g10 tip

S

sevenblue7

Hood Cue Repairs
anything special needed to install these type of break tip ie glue
I'm having problems getting the tip to stay on have tried twice both times it has popped off I'm using loctite 454 glue was wandering if I was supose to use a 5min epoxy for this type of tip considering that it's a glass epoxy
any sugestions ??????:confused:
 
I use loctite gel +
If its a soft ferrule then I like to put a pad in between.
I recommend putting a one piece tip ferrule combo on if it is a solid shaft though.
 
Buy your own G10 in rod form...not pre-cut tips. Then when you cut a tip from the rod, machine a small tenon on the back of the tip..1/4" is fine. Then drill/bore a hole into your ferrule to accept the tenon. Using this method you can install the tip with Elmers & it won't come off. Seriously...any quality CA gel will work fine. Its the side sheer action that causes the non-leather tips to pop off so often. With the tenon design there is no worry with this at all. Trust me. I give a lifetime warranty on the tip/ferrule on my j/b's. With that said, let me add that there are many materials that will give better performance as a tip than G10....Ivorine IV and Canvas rod are just a couple examples. With G10 you can only count on a ton of micro cracks into the finish of your cueball. :wink:
 
Varney Cues said:
Buy your own G10 in rod form...not pre-cut tips. Then when you cut a tip from the rod, machine a small tenon on the back of the tip..1/4" is fine. Then drill/bore a hole into your ferrule to accept the tenon. Using this method you can install the tip with Elmers & it won't come off. Seriously...any quality CA gel will work fine. Its the side sheer action that causes the non-leather tips to pop off so often. With the tenon design there is no worry with this at all. Trust me. I give a lifetime warranty on the tip/ferrule on my j/b's. With that said, let me add that there are many materials that will give better performance as a tip than G10....Ivorine IV and Canvas rod are just a couple examples. With G10 you can only count on a ton of micro cracks into the finish of your cueball. :wink:
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What is white diamond tips made out of?

Speaking of cracks in the cueballs that is why BCA outlawed the use of phenolic and G10 tips.
 
opiesbro said:
What is white diamond tips made out of?

Speaking of cracks in the cueballs that is why BCA outlawed the use of phenolic and G10 tips.
Click to expand...

To answer your questions in order...
1) Not sure...you'd need to ask Mr. Picone if he'd share his formula.
2) Yes...many room owners were concerned with the amount of cracks the cueballs were collecting. You really wouldn't notice them unless someone pointed them out to you. Just tiny little curve crack lines looking almost like if you could of pushed your fingernail into the ball making the finish crack. You couldn't feel them though...just see them. Its possible they may have something to do with some of the cueballs exploding on the break. I personally exploded one with my j/b using a canvas-resin tip & I know of a few other players that have shattered them as well. Larry Nevel has exploded several cueballs fairly recently....I think the last I spoke with him he mentioned he had even shattered one while breaking with a leather tip...now thats impressive...of course with his break he'd probably bust one with a marshmellow tip.:grin:
 
The only reason that I brought it up was in my experiences the white diamond tips have been the worst to keep glued on and the tiger glue seems to be the only thing that works for me.
 
opiesbro said:
The only reason that I brought it up was in my experiences the white diamond tips have been the worst to keep glued on and the tiger glue seems to be the only thing that works for me.
Click to expand...

In truth...its any hard non-leather tip. Like I mentioned earlier...its the side sheering force from a miscue type hit that causes them to pop off. Many players have better results than others with different, tips, ferrules, and adhesives. JB Cold Weld works as well as anything if you must keep trying. Its simply the nature of the design & materials...at any given time your tip may/will suddenly pop off for what will seem as no fault of your own. Only using the tenon design method eliminates this 100%. When you make your non-leather tip with a tenon on the back & then insert it into the ferrule face...standard male/female fit...then you can't even break the tip off with channel locks. :thumbup:
 
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