Appreciate the input, and I tend to agree with the fact that vertical axis shots do not change from shaft to shaft.
So let's say I'm hitting the ball with english with the 314-2 when I think I'm hitting dead vertical axis. What is your explanation then this not happening with solid shafts? I just aim and shoot, and the ball goes where I want, with a lot more consistency than the 314-2. And this is not just one shaft. Same with the 3 other solid shafts (2 Runde era stitched ring, and 1 standard Schon shaft) that I have in my case. When I had my Darrin Hill cue, same thing, it was a lot easier to aim and shoot and TRUST the shot with the solid shafts :shrug:
I do have a very slight taper roll on the 314-2 though. I never thought about this before, but could this have any effect on my cueing?
LD shafts purpose is to lower the squirt of the CB when its struck to the left or right of the vertical axis.
Meaning that if you put one tip english with a normal shaft and then an LD the path of the CB will be more straight with the LD......generally.
Most LD shafts on the market are smaller diameter than the typical 13mm
In general a smaller tip produces more spin/rotation per given tip offset than a larger one.
And there is the gaff.
The LD will be more accurate if the CB is hit accurately as it will help the CB keep a more linear path. BUT this does not translate to "if i miss hit the CB the margin of error with an LD shaft is less than a normal shaft" (IN SOME CASES YES, BUT ITS NOT A CONSTANT)
With a miss hit on the CB the smaller diameter shaft will result in a greater margin of missed shot.
Y?
Gearing Action is the reason. Tho limited, the more english on the cueball the more of it is transferred to the OB. This action on the OBJECT BALL is called THROW.
All this taken into account......
could be three issues imop
1-alignment issue which is causing you to stroke off an incorrect shot line.
2-SHOT SPEED****
3-Failure to strike the intended spot on CB
***Tho you said the intended is No ENGLISH, W/Top Spin if you are misstriking the CB the swerve of the CB will also change with the speed of the shot. If this is the case then #3 would be the problem to fix.
Know this tho that some play a shot with english and try and compensate for swerve by varying the purposed english (this of course can be done) or by shifting their aim.......Remember you can adjust this condition via SPEED as well, and that the speed for a sought after quantity of swerve and the CB coming back to its intended path are just a result of the timing. There are many shots that a particular english will have its own signature speed of stroke delivery.
The differences b/t LD and normal can be as great as b/t a Mustang 5.0 and a Real high end race car. The mustang has some play and a rookie or a seasoned vet can drive the crap out of it. But the high end car a vet can use all its bells and wistles as its in his range, the rookie can drive it sure but hes going to have some time learning how to control the power to weight ratios and would lose control in curves at higher speeds because they hadn't learned that steering touch, brake and throttle just yet.
most of all our shafts are sporty but there's definately a difference in the touring model and the formula 1's productivity and controllability.
in this race tho no car is really better than the other tho.....its all up to the driver....its just up to the driver to use what he feels most comfortable in.
So to end this:
1-Make sure your striking the CB properly
2-Make sure your in alignment with the shot
3-Use whatever cue makes you smile and you feel comfortable with.
These are simple yet profound rules that govern us all as players.
Hope that helps.
-Greyghost
