Newbie cue making questions

H

hustlinfor$

Banned
New to this so please bear with me. I picked up a Hightower Deluxe and really like it. I've worked with it some and have it dialed in pretty well.

I want to know what the black joint material is on a Predator shaft. I will be making several shafts that will extend into the piloted joint collar. Is it ABS, Derlin, Juma, linen based phenolic or somtehing else?

I am looking make some rings with the silver bars that run lengthwise on a cue. Where would I be able to find some of that material?

I have 6 sneaky pete blanks and 7 dymondwood butt sections which I'll be turning out. I'll make jump/break cues out of the Dymondwood butts. After that I'll try to work up to some more elaborate work, I have lots of other material to work with, many different exotic woods in squares so I better get it started turning down. I know I've got a lot to learn, but am really excited to learn. I enjoy every aspect of this game, it's history and especially all the wonderful cues that are out there.

Thanks in advance, forgive the basic questions.
 
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hustlinfor$ said:
New to this so please bear with me. I picked up a Hightower Deluxe and really like it. I've worked with it some and have it dialed in pretty well.

I want to know what the black joint material is on a Predator shaft. I will be making several shafts that will extend into the piloted joint collar. Is it ABS, Derlin, Juma, linen based phenolic or somtehing else?
I am looking make some rings with the silver bars that run lengthwise on a cue. Where would I be able to find some of that material?

I have 6 sneaky pete blanks and 7 dymondwood butt sections which I'll be turning out. I'll make jump/break cues out of the Dymondwood butts. After that I'll try to work up to some more elaborate work, I have lots of other material to work with, many different exotic woods in squares so I better get it started turning down. I know I've got a lot to learn, but am really excited to learn. I enjoy every aspect of this game, it's history and especially all the wonderful cues that are out there.

Thanks in advance, forgive the basic questions.
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Dude,

You need to learn to read first - there is a thread already on this forum, only 5 posts down from yours, by my count, about Predator joints.

Did Chris Hightower's book come with your lathe? If not, buy it and read it cover to cover - it is the bible of cuemaking. Also buy his DVD set - pictures are worth a thousand words and moving pictures/film are worth more than that.

Buy some inexpensive 1.5x1.5 pine banisters at Home Depot and start practicing turning them.

And try using the search function here, you will learn how many others - not just one guy - tackle the problems that you have questions about.

HTH

Gary
 
from what I can tell it's double black phenolic.....so that's what I always try to use....
 
HDR10 said:
from what I can tell it's double black phenolic.....so that's what I always try to use....
Click to expand...

I thought it had linen in it. Fortunately I have some double black linen with the 0.61" ID already. Part of a package of materials that came with the lathe.

I just turned down a brown phenolic butt cap on a rosewood sneaky pete. Came out nice. I tapped the thread for the joint pin, 3/8 X10 and a brown phenolic collar is in place there, I'll wait to turn that after I get a shaft closer to complete.

Cue #1 will be real basic, but it's going into the vault. You never know what something will be worth someday. It might just be good for holding open a window on a summer day. Time will tell.

Thanks for the quick responses.

Anybody know where to find the silver bar to make rings that go lengthwise up the cue? The material is laid in the rings then they are cut.

Thanks.
 
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cueman said:
PM source sent!
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Go to the archives of this forum (lower right bottom of the page) and read the Ask the Cuemaker.

Read it all,,,, word for word. There is a lot of BS and chit chat but there is also a wealth of knowledge in those threads.

Kim
 
Do yourself a huge favor and listen carefully and follow any and all advice you get from Trent and any other respected cue makers. I'm a noob too, and if it wasn't for Trent helping me out, id have probably quit already. Don't be scared to try some stuff on your own first either. I have seen other guys be too scared to mess up their wood, or just don't have the guts to try to learn on their own, and they have been called out and insulted as a result.

Joe
 
Were the points perfectly even when you put the pin in? Something that tends to get scrutinized is the length of points compared to each other. If you didn't get the points close to perfect and now you pin is your center, you are left with only sanding the long points to get them even. That is done typically AFTER they are almost perfect and you are at final sanding size. If you are more than say an .125 from the tallest to the shortest, then I would just leave it and do better next time.

To get points even, go to store and get some cigarette papers. Use the papers to shim the LONG point(bring that part closer to the cutter)by slipping it between the drive center on your lathe and the center you bored on your blank. Take small cuts and add subtract paper until your points are as close to perfect as you can get(also continue to turn until cutter is cutting all the way around the cue, not just the high points), then take the cue out and reface the joint end. After that, rebore the new center and the points should now turn even.


This info is courtesy of Chris Hightowers book, is spot on, and an excellent buy IMO. I can't remember how much it cost, but the last piece of Amboyna I bought was more than the book I am sure. What I mean is the time and material you will save by spending on his book will save you many times over in the long run. No need to wait for answers in a forum either.

Also...and this is huge.....the Cardinal rule is not to get in a hurry. Eventually, you might have machines that have the ability to kill you if not given their due respect.
 
pescadoman said:
Were the points perfectly even when you put the pin in? Something that tends to get scrutinized is the length of points compared to each other. If you didn't get the points close to perfect and now you pin is your center, you are left with only sanding the long points to get them even. That is done typically AFTER they are almost perfect and you are at final sanding size. If you are more than say an .125 from the tallest to the shortest, then I would just leave it and do better next time.

To get points even, go to store and get some cigarette papers. Use the papers to shim the LONG point(bring that part closer to the cutter)by slipping it between the drive center on your lathe and the center you bored on your blank. Take small cuts and add subtract paper until your points are as close to perfect as you can get(also continue to turn until cutter is cutting all the way around the cue, not just the high points), then take the cue out and reface the joint end. After that, rebore the new center and the points should now turn even.


This info is courtesy of Chris Hightowers book, is spot on, and an excellent buy IMO. I can't remember how much it cost, but the last piece of Amboyna I bought was more than the book I am sure. What I mean is the time and material you will save by spending on his book will save you many times over in the long run. No need to wait for answers in a forum either.

Also...and this is huge.....the Cardinal rule is not to get in a hurry. Eventually, you might have machines that have the ability to kill you if not given their due respect.
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Thanks, I do have the book and it is great. Not sure where the sneaky pete blanks came from since I bought them with the used lathe as a package, but the points were really even to start and came out practically dead on. The butt was only about 0.15 oversized. I think they were from cuecomponents.

What I wish I had was a week off so I could just play with the tools some more, but there really is no rush. I gotta play pool too, it's been a pretty good couple of weeks with that. In the Northeast February and March are really busy with tournaments, by May everyone wants to be back outside. So my weekends now are busy playing.

Super Billiards Expo is just 2 weeks away, I'll be sure to put down my playing cue some and look at all the nice cues for sale a bit more closely. I do love the action there, just pig heaven really.
 
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