Best rails for Brunswick Anniversary and where to buy?

woody_968

BRING BACK 14.1
Silver Member
I'm considering new rails before I have my table set up, so what should I buy and where is the best place to order from?
 

Jim Vondrell

Accu-Level Billiard Svc
Silver Member
There are no cushions sold today that will match right up. So i will advise artemis k55 and have the rails reworked to except them prope
rly. Where in indiana are you?
 

ROB.M

:)
Silver Member
Table

Mark gregory is a specialist at reworking/rebuilding those rails, top notch work!
 
I'm considering new rails before I have my table set up, so what should I buy and where is the best place to order from?
You can get a walnut wood set from Ken Hash at Classic Billiards and trade your's in on the set....what's wrong with your rails?
If you have walnut rails.....I can redo the sub rails and cushions....also refinish them.....if the formica...you may want to trade them to Kenny.

770-548-4292
Mark Gregory
 

woody_968

BRING BACK 14.1
Silver Member
..what's wrong with your rails?


770-548-4292
Mark Gregory

I meant the rubber. The rails themselves are fine. Actually I don't even know that the rubber is bad, I didn't have a chance to hit balls on it before we took it down.

How should I check the current rails to know if I need to replace them? I know there are a couple places that I can move a portion of the rubber up and down. So at minimum I would need to glue these places?

I just don't want to get it put together and then wish I had spent the money and changed them.

I have a local guy that can change them if need be, I have played on tables he has done and been happy with how they played.

Thanks for all the input!

Woody
 

Poolhalljunkie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Rails

If it was me I would go with Artemis. I just had my GCII rails redone with Artemis rubber and the pockets tightened by Donny of SDbilliards. Mark does just as good of work and he would be closer to you, if you want them to
Play right (and better than they do now) then Mark is your guy. Good luck.
 
If it was me I would go with Artemis. I just had my GCII rails redone with Artemis rubber and the pockets tightened by Donny of SDbilliards. Mark does just as good of work and he would be closer to you, if you want them to
Play right (and better than they do now) then Mark is your guy. Good luck.

I appreciate the compliment on rails.....but my work on rails is a lot different than Donny"s and the rest of the guy's offering this kind of work....Bobby is the only other guy doing some what the same kind of work as I....we worked together.
I haven't seen Glen's rail work yet.....but I don't have to....I know he's doing it the right way. We talk all the time on the phone.

Mark Gregory
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I appreciate the compliment on rails.....but my work on rails is a lot different than Donny"s and the rest of the guy's offering this kind of work....Bobby is the only other guy doing some what the same kind of work as I....we worked together.
I haven't seen Glen's rail work yet.....but I don't have to....I know he's doing it the right way. We talk all the time on the phone.

Mark Gregory

To add to what Mark is saying, yes...sometimes it's OK to just do some repair work to a set of rails, in which on some sets that may be all thats needed to fix them up. But, at the same time, and in a lot of cases, the sub-rails do need to be completely cut off and new sub-rails installed....even to the point of removing the wood under the finish of the rails at both ends....in order to fix the rails correctly, which is why there's only a few table mechanics today that actually have the skills needed to perform these such tasks.

Glen
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
I'm considering new rails before I have my table set up, so what should I buy and where is the best place to order from?

I have a Anniverary that was built in 1954, that still has the original rubber on it, it plays great. So if have not used the table since you purchased it you may want to leave the rubber alone. The way rubber was made years ago in the USA it would last a life time. None of the new rubbers being made in my opinion equal what I already have, the table has 860 hr on it and it fast.

JIMO
 

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
why use artemis to custom fit when superspeed is made for the table
im not a mechanic and i may need soeme teaching:smile:
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
why use artemis to custom fit when superspeed is made for the table
im not a mechanic and i may need soeme teaching:smile:

Well, you're sort of right except that todays Brunswick Super speed cushions don't trade straight across with the earlier built Super speed cushions or the Monarchs....so, the sub-rails still need to be modified in order to accept the new Super speeds anyway:grin:
 

goldcrown4

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Don't forget, you have top-notch mechanic that may not be too far from you (in Batesville, IN ... Jack Zimmerman.) I sent my Anniversary rails to him in Dec. He put Artemis Intercontinental K66 cushions on them and extended the subrails to tighten the pockets. Flawless mods! and the table is finally re-assembled. Too tired to play though tonight. Will post some pics on my thread and call it a night.
 

goldcrown4

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Anniverary that was built in 1954, that still has the original rubber on it, it plays great. So if have not used the table since you purchased it you may want to leave the rubber alone. The way rubber was made years ago in the USA it would last a life time. None of the new rubbers being made in my opinion equal what I already have, the table has 860 hr on it and it fast. JIMO

Manwon... just curious... you've stated that you know your Anni was built in 1954. How were you able to determine that? Mine is late 40's early 50's and not what my thread name indicates as that was before I knew better. I mean there's the stretcher, the side castings, corner/pocket fastener type (recessed allen-head or flush/nailed), rectangular brass nameplate and walnut rails that help narrow Anni table's manufacturer year down, but it's still just a range. Does yours have formica rail tops?

More on topic in this thread, in my opinion, the original Monarch cushions I used to have were nearly as lively as my brand new Artemis cushions. One of them had a small chunk missing right where a ball would come in contact with it so I decided to replace the whole set and not wait for them to harden up or otherwise die at over 60 years of age.
 

manwon

"WARLOCK 1"
Silver Member
Manwon... just curious... you've stated that you know your Anni was built in 1954. How were you able to determine that? Mine is late 40's early 50's and not what my thread name indicates as that was before I knew better. I mean there's the stretcher, the side castings, corner/pocket fastener type (recessed allen-head or flush/nailed), rectangular brass nameplate and walnut rails that help narrow Anni table's manufacturer year down, but it's still just a range. Does yours have formica rail tops?

More on topic in this thread, in my opinion, the original Monarch cushions I used to have were nearly as lively as my brand new Artemis cushions. One of them had a small chunk missing right where a ball would come in contact with it so I decided to replace the whole set and not wait for them to harden up or otherwise die at over 60 years of age.



My table has date stenciled on the bottom of the rails and parts of the frame. The rubber is also marked with the same design of the little man holding the cue that is on the name plate so I know the ruber is original to the table. I thought that all the tables were marked like that. I am certainly not an expert, if the table wasn't marked I would not have known the date.
 

goldcrown4

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
My table has date stenciled on the bottom of the rails and parts of the frame. The rubber is also marked with the same design of the little man holding the cue that is on the name plate so I know the ruber is original to the table. I thought that all the tables were marked like that. I am certainly not an expert, if the table wasn't marked I would not have known the date.

My frame has "5171" engraved into the wood as well as stamped. I know the aprons have something else. I wish I knew if the numbers contained part of the year. The only place I have the dude holding the cue is on the brass nameplate.
 
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