Shaft Freeze

gulyassy

Custom Cues Since 1986
Silver Member
I have heard some talk about my finish. It has been brought to my attention that my finish turns green. If I load one up it has a faint green tint to it but this is only if I put on 2 or 3 thousands of the product. Usually I coat my cues with about 12 coats and they do not look anything but natural. Shaft freeze gets sticky and dirty, just like the exposed wood. The answer for this is to swipe a piece of 800 grit sandpaper over the shaft 3 or 4 times and everything comes of, all the dirt and the chalk, and it is like new in seconds. It will remove the finish with constant sanding but this will take some time. There is always the option to remove the surface coat of Shaft freeze and get down to the wood, but the Shaft Freeze soaks into the wood sot there is still protection there against moisture and humidity changing the shaft. The wood gets dirty and sticky with use, and it will oxidize as soon as it is exposed to air. After time it will turn a bluish grey. So with Shaft Freeze the shaft stays new looking and the main thing, straight, or take it off and it takes on the look of all shaft with age. On thing for absolutely sure is that with Shaft Freeze there is negligible shrinkage and no oxidation. Re-coating is an option and will keep shafts new looking for many, many years. I have a cue that I have had for three years, it is a $1500.00 Break/Jump. It feels like it did when I finished it 3 years ago. The finish on the butt had shrunk a little but the shaft had not change at all. All finish shrinks, more at first when it is freshly applied, then it gets to a point it is not noticeable, after a few weeks, after several years shrinkage will be apparent on all cues.
 
Mike, I've been told the Shaft Freeze is nothing but super glue. Is this true?

No. This finish was developed by Axon Hentzen Aerospace. They are the leading manufacturer of finishes for space and air vehicles. This is nothing remotely resembling super glue. It is sprayed on like most clear coats on cue butts. It is resistant to heat and cold and when properly applied will keep shafts straight, slick and no oxidation.
 
Mike, I am intrigued by your product & will have you apply it to the next new shaft I get. Thanks for taking the time to clarify some points so there is no misconception about shaft freeze.
 
I have heard some talk about my finish. It has been brought to my attention that my finish turns green. If I load one up it has a faint green tint to it but this is only if I put on 2 or 3 thousands of the product. Usually I coat my cues with about 12 coats and they do not look anything but natural. Shaft freeze gets sticky and dirty, just like the exposed wood. The answer for this is to swipe a piece of 800 grit sandpaper over the shaft 3 or 4 times and everything comes of, all the dirt and the chalk, and it is like new in seconds. It will remove the finish with constant sanding but this will take some time. There is always the option to remove the surface coat of Shaft freeze and get down to the wood, but the Shaft Freeze soaks into the wood sot there is still protection there against moisture and humidity changing the shaft. The wood gets dirty and sticky with use, and it will oxidize as soon as it is exposed to air. After time it will turn a bluish grey. So with Shaft Freeze the shaft stays new looking and the main thing, straight, or take it off and it takes on the look of all shaft with age. On thing for absolutely sure is that with Shaft Freeze there is negligible shrinkage and no oxidation. Re-coating is an option and will keep shafts new looking for many, many years. I have a cue that I have had for three years, it is a $1500.00 Break/Jump. It feels like it did when I finished it 3 years ago. The finish on the butt had shrunk a little but the shaft had not change at all. All finish shrinks, more at first when it is freshly applied, then it gets to a point it is not noticeable, after a few weeks, after several years shrinkage will be apparent on all cues.

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How much will this cost to have applied to a cue? Can it be applied to a older cue?
 
I can attest to the benefits of Shaft Freeze. I have it on two of my cues and I'm convinced it's the best shaft treatment out there. I have seen no discoloration whatsoever. What I really like, is it makes a new shaft feel like one that has been "cured" by years of use. It has that patina and smoothness a well-cared for shaft develops over time. I love that I can take a damp cloth, wipe it down, rub it dry with a dry cloth and the shaft returns to perfect condition.

It also seems to stiffen the shaft. I have it a shaft that exhibits Mike's very extended (Earl Strickland) taper. I expected it to be whippy. But it isn't. Mike says that's due to the hardness of Shaft Freeze. I think he's right.
 
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How much will this cost to have applied to a cue? Can it be applied to a older cue?

It is $40.00 for a new shaft and $60.00 for a used shaft. The used shafts take several applications to get the smooth consistent finish. Also I must aggressively sand out all chalk wax and silicone off your shaft to make it possible for the Shaft Freeze to adhere properly.
 
It is $40.00 for a new shaft and $60.00 for a used shaft. The used shafts take several applications to get the smooth consistent finish. Also I must aggressively sand out all chalk wax and silicone off your shaft to make it possible for the Shaft Freeze to adhere properly.

I stopped at your booth at the SBE but really didn't have much time to discuss the shaft freeze properly. Can you jot down a quick outline the benefits and how it works?
 
I stopped at your booth at the SBE but really didn't have much time to discuss the shaft freeze properly. Can you jot down a quick outline the benefits and how it works?

First thing it does is soak into the wood to create a permanent bond to the maple. second it seals the shafts to keep out dirt, moisture and chalk. Third it is slick so it feels like a newly cleaned shaft. The material will get dirty and sticky like wood but cleaning is as easy as 3 or 4 strokes with 800 grit sand paper and all the gunk is off. Sanding it off is inevitable unless you use a glove which in this case your shaft will look new for years as long as the Freeze is maintained. I apply several coats of Freeze for a relatively long life. The most important part of Shaft Freeze to me is how it keeps the shafts straight. I have seen a very high percentage of my shafts that come back to me for maintenance that are still dead straight. We know that 99% of all shaft move over time and this is very discouraging when we come to a shaft we love. This Freeze can keep shafts straighter longer and no loss of size through cleanings. Every time a shaft is cleaned about 2 to 3 thousands of wood is removed. Over time the shaft can reduce a whole millimeter. I have kept my playing shaft the same for going on 4 years now. Yes it is a little expensive but now for my shafts that I build I maintain them for the same amount as a good cleaning. Just send them to me and I will apply another coat for my fee plus shipping (not selling just some information) It can be like new for ever with Shaft Freeze.
 
Thanks again Mike.

Mike applied it to my OB2 shaft and it is coming up on 3 years now and it still looks and feels great. I use a Mr. Clean dry eraser on it from time to time and it is good to go. :thumbup:
 
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