Turning tips

conetip

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I thought I would start a thread with tips that help out when using a lathe.
Hopefully others will chime in with other helpful tips for novice or expert alike.

When filing/snading something that is close to the chuck jaws, place a plastic washer over the part and against the jaws.
This stops the file from hitting against the chuck jaws or work holder.

Using 2 keys with a 4 jaw chuck allows for a lot quicker setting up as to just using the 1 key usually supplied. The do not need to be the same handle size, and sometimes a smaller handle is easier to use on the back or under side of the chuck.
 
When working on the lathe focus 100% attention on what you are doing. If you let your mind wander you can lose a very nice piece of wood and a handful of fingers to boot.
 
Use a coffee can plastic lid.
Drill a hole, and let that plastic lid cover the knucklebusters.
Bob Denali Flynn shared that here long time ago.
 
Joey...can you elaborate on your post...maybe a picture of what you mean by using a coffee can lid. I sort of have an idea in my head...but would rather you show us.

Cheers

Headmuses
 
I have the pic somewhere. If you can't find it, I'll see if I can dig it up later.

A plastic coffee can lid. Cut a hole or 2 slits in the center and slip it over your mandrel.
It will ride up against the chuck.

It also protects the chuck if you are doing finishing on the cue.
Keeps the epoxy and finish off nicely.
 
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conetip said:
I thought I would start a thread with tips that help out when using a lathe.
Hopefully others will chime in with other helpful tips for novice or expert alike.

When filing/snading something that is close to the chuck jaws, place a plastic washer over the part and against the jaws.
This stops the file from hitting against the chuck jaws or work holder.

Using 2 keys with a 4 jaw chuck allows for a lot quicker setting up as to just using the 1 key usually supplied. The do not need to be the same handle size, and sometimes a smaller handle is easier to use on the back or under side of the chuck.
Click to expand...

I'm just curious why you need 2 keys,,,,,I always just spin the chuck
 
JoeyInCali said:
Use a coffee can plastic lid.
Drill a hole, and let that plastic lid cover the knucklebusters.
Bob Denali Flynn shared that here long time ago.
Click to expand...

Great, now we will have 2,016 people selling coffee lid chuck protectors on ebay for $49.95 ($60.00 for New and improved and Decaf).:joyful:
 
TomHay said:
Great, now we will have 2,016 people selling coffee lid chuck protectors on ebay for $49.95 ($60.00 for New and improved and Decaf).:joyful:
Click to expand...
I have 3. Two that I'm not really using. I'll let them go for 20 each including shipping. :duck:

Alan
 
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JoeyInCali said:
Use a coffee can plastic lid.
Drill a hole, and let that plastic lid cover the knucklebusters.
Bob Denali Flynn shared that here long time ago.
Click to expand...

Mine kept moving into the work area, so I used small pieces of velcro on the jaw faces and on the lid, now they don't move.
Dave
 
My biggest thing is to keep everything clean and lubricated...... Especially taig based beds...... A little gunk can jam everything up

On that note if you are finishing cues on the same bed you can cover it with plastic wrap or aluminum foil to protect it from spray or drips
 
TomHay said:
Great, now we will have 2,016 people selling coffee lid chuck protectors on ebay for $49.95 ($60.00 for New and improved and Decaf).:joyful:
Click to expand...

You might.
The multi-layered one will cost double. :grin-square:

You can use disposable wipes top cover too. It already has notched hole.
Cut off the top lip/lid.
 
JoeyInCali said:
You might.
The multi-layered one will cost double. :grin-square:

You can use disposable wipes top cover too. It already has notched hole.
Cut off the top lip/lid.
Click to expand...

If you forget to cut off the top lid I hope you remember to remove the disposable wipes.
 
Renegade_56 said:
I'm just curious why you need 2 keys,,,,,I always just spin the chuck
Click to expand...

When dialing in a 4 jaw I always find it way easier to have two keys to work against each other, even though you can still dial it in just flipping the chuck around. It's a simple thing, but it saves time and makes it much easier. There are a couple youtube videos that show this technique for 4 jaw dialing in. I cut one of the keys handles down so it is easier to get at the far side of the chuck.
 
dust- and knucklesaver

nuff words, show it up :grin:
When I first learnt about a coffee bin lid (thanks AZB) I asked how it is supposed to hold (and got no reply unfortunately). Luckily my shaft protector is T-shaped to hold against the chuck jaws so it does the job. If I used just a plain cylinder I would have had to come up with another solution (velcro is one of them, thanks again for a hint!)

0995.jpg 0996.jpg

0997.jpg

that lid is not particularly from coffee, but who cares ;) Was a little oversize so had to cut it around just enough to spin and not catch the bed
 
Just made a new spindle for the steady rest with an ER40 on one end and the Taig fine thread on the other for 3 jaw or 4 jaw independent chuck.
Pictures show it in the modified steady rest getting the 8deg taper per side trimmed in situation. It is being driven from the lathe chuck through the 3jaw chuck on the other end.
The little chuck has a 5/8 or so piece just to clamp down on to keep the jaws tight, the main chuck has a piece of 3/4 or so piece of plastic to keep that set of jaws tight. I place a wrap of paper around 1 jaw of the main chuck to make a cushion so it does not rattle on start up and stop.
 

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When turning steel at home, I like to make a mix that is 1 part Castor oil, 1 part canola oil,some kerosene to thin, but no more than 1/2 a part. So if 1 part is equal to 100 ml,then add no more than 50 ml's of kerosene. My mix fits into a 250 ml bottle.
This makes a great tapping compound for precision threads as well as making very close sized holes. When turning steel, I turn it on the slower side when using this cutting oil, ie makes very little to no smoke. If there is smoke coming off the chips, the surface speed is too high. If you are using higher cutting speeds, then I suggest using a soluble cutting fluid.
This mix is not really suited to turning Ti or Mg.
But can certainly be used when hand tapping Ti, Mg, Al, steel, brass, stainless.
Kerosene vapour is dangerous so do not use in confined spaces.
It will still work well quite well without adding the kerosene.
Some very nice surface finishes can be achieved with the Castor oil and Canola oil mix.
It will leave a gummy residue if it is not cleaned up off the equipment over time.
Kerosene or Denatured alcohol, or IPA will clean this oil off most metals.

Neil
 
Another tip to parting off parts.
There are lots of options, but one way is to part to within Ø0.006 inches ( Ø0.15 mm)
of the inner bore diameter. Then after the parting tool is removed and lathe turned off, a chisel or blade can be used to separate the parts. It can also be done on the bench and does not need to be done in the lathe or spindle.
Neil
 
Here is a phosphor bronze bush that was parted to .1mm on diameter ,.004 inches.
The chisel is made from a through hardened power hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off.The chisel end is sharpened to quite a sharp edge at about 25 deg.
The other end that gets lightly tapped with a small copper block has been tempered back to dark blue, about 40 Rc. The sharp end is about 56-58 Rc.
I just go slowly around and then the last little bit will tear away.
When I bore through on the final size, I only go about 0.8 to 1mm (depending on tool radius) longer than the part finished length.This is so when the parting tool comes down, there is only a narrow width of the thin material holding everything together.Otherwise a much thicker section would be required to hold everything together.I do this on parts that I do not want to risk getting damaged when parting off.
 

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