Starting to research cues

HomerJay20

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
:confused:

I really don't know the difference between cues, except that I like the feel of my $90 Mali better than both my "titanium" Mizerak and "graphite" Minnesota Fats. I'm told that if I want to get a serious low deflection cue I need to pony up at least $250 for something like a Predator cue. Is there a good guide or good advice for comparing and selecting a good cue? What's the main difference between the makers? I'm guessing something like Predator is highly commercialized whereas something like Schon is mom and pop shop hand craftmanship.
 
Well, I'd say Schon is probably the most nicely finished and built of the production cues..but it is still a production cue.

Are you looking to "move up" in production cues? Just looking for a nice playing cue? There are a lot of choices in production cues. Generally speaking, made in USA would be my preference.
 
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it is all you to you. Best player that was on my team used a cuetec and would run out with hit. If you have a billiards store I would go check them out and test hit them. I had a lucasi for a couple of years and in the beginning of this year purchased an OB cue. It does have the LD shaft and I have maybe played with the lucasi a few times since. To me the OB feels better but I still played well with the Lucasi. One reason why I switched was because I was tired of the design on the lucasi and got a plain jane, the LD shaft was a bonus.

LD shafts are not the end all be all for players. I know plenty of fantastic players that use regular maple shafts.
 
:confused:

I really don't know the difference between cues, except that I like the feel of my $90 Mali better than both my "titanium" Mizerak and "graphite" Minnesota Fats. I'm told that if I want to get a serious low deflection cue I need to pony up at least $250 for something like a Predator cue. Is there a good guide or good advice for comparing and selecting a good cue? What's the main difference between the makers? I'm guessing something like Predator is highly commercialized whereas something like Schon is mom and pop shop hand craftmanship.

there have been many threads on here concerning this subject but i do not recall any one giving the advice i am going to give you.

disregard the name on the cue, buy what feels good to you. i went through the stage where you are at now. i bought ,sold , and traded cues looking for the magic wand. un fortunately i traded the best playing cue i have ever owned for one that i thought was better. i have tried to buy that cue back several times offering a nice profit but he refuses, saying its the best playing cue he has ever owned lol. thats my advice on what feels good to you subject.

now for the rest of your post; i hate to bust your bubble but you are not going to find a predator for 250.00 unless it is counterfiet.

may i ask why you want a low deflection cue ? i am assuming you do not currently play with one. if you have been playing for a while and have never shot with a low deflection cue i must warn you it does take some getting used to. i own 3 and always go back to my standard shafts. i just dont like the feel of low deflection shafts.

if you feel you want to go the low deflection route within the 250.00 you mentioned i would suggest the players hxt or mc dermott g-core. in my opinion either one is a good low deflection cue without breaking the bank. i would hate for you to do what i did. i paid 1,400.00 for a predator , did not like it so i stuck it in the closet . eventuelly gave it to my girlfriend and i gotta say she plays better with it than any other cue she has ever shot with, go figure that one.
 
disregard the name on the cue, buy what feels good to you.

I have to agree with this. I recently bought a cue. there is a local dealer in town but they don't allow you to shoot with the cues. That would be like buying a car without getting to test drive it.

I found an AZer that was local to me. i exchanged emails with him and gave him a price range and what I was looking for. He brought me a few cues and I got to hit balls for an hour.

now mind you I won't say I'll never switch cues again but I certainly know who I'm going back to.

So really, if you can hit some balls with a few cues there will be different feel to them. Finding that connection (or at least a dealer willing to let you hit balls) will make the difference.
 
I have to agree with this. I recently bought a cue. there is a local dealer in town but they don't allow you to shoot with the cues. That would be like buying a car without getting to test drive it.

I found an AZer that was local to me. i exchanged emails with him and gave him a price range and what I was looking for. He brought me a few cues and I got to hit balls for an hour.

now mind you I won't say I'll never switch cues again but I certainly know who I'm going back to.

So really, if you can hit some balls with a few cues there will be different feel to them. Finding that connection (or at least a dealer willing to let you hit balls) will make the difference.

Bingo! One exception would be if you are thinking of going with a custom maker, but that takes different homework.
 
There are certainly a lot of differences from one manufacturer to another. These can be reflected in feel of the cue, quality of the finish, technologies implemented in the cue, looks of the cue, etc...

It's true that a low deflection cue does cost a bit of money, and now "cheap" Predator is no longer that cheap (the cheap ones were replace), so you are deep into the high $300's for a new Predator (think $400 with tax at a minimum); their cues are really nice cues though. But there are other LD shaft makers, so you don't have to go the Predator route. OB is every bit is good as a Predator in LD (and I feel my OB classic is even better), yet they offer a few cues that are significantly cheaper than Predator's cheapest.

Lucasi also makes some under $200 LD cues, though I have not tried the LD one so can't speak to them; their regular cues are pretty darn good production sticks though, and I think Lucasi's sneaky pete is one of the best values in a cue for under $200.

It's hard to put together a guide on what cue to get. It really depends on your budget, your personal preferences, and what look you like (if you care about the looks of the cue at all), and what you want out of your cue. As a general rule of thumb, you can get some pretty darn good values in the 150 to 300 range for non-LD pool cues. 300 to 500 for LD cues. Above that you can get some good values, but value is a relative term. A Schon is a great value, but the cheapest ones aren't cheap.

The first step is set a hard budget... Think... I have x amount to spend on a cue, and no more. I will most likely spend the amount I decide, so must be comfortable spending that.

Then I'd decide, do I care about the looks of the cue, the type of wood, the design patterns, whether it has inlays, paint, decals, etc... At this point only you can decide what is best for you... This will complicate the decision, limit the number of cues that appeal to you, and cause the price range to vary greatly.

Decide if you want an LD shaft or not. It's most economical to buy a cue that is already LD, vs one that is standard now, and then buying an LD shaft later.... The latter is cheaper up front, but you'll spend an extra $100 for the priviledge of going LD. If you want to go LD, do it when you buy the new cue. You don't need an LD shaft to play effectively, but it does make life a litter easier in most cases.

As far as differences in cue makers; they differ greatly. It's not just about production vs. mom and pop. Viking is a high-volume production cue maker, and their fit and finish is good, the cues are very consistent, and they offer some level of customization. Then there are other high-volume cue makers that have crap for fit and finish, have not consistency, and don't customize.

Each maker offers it's own construction standards. Schon, uses metal joint collars in all their new cues (from what I've seen). Predator has some that are wood, some that are metal. OB has some that are metal and some that are plastic. Those joints can definitely alter how the cue feels, steel having a harder faster hit, and wood or plastic having a softer slower hit. Only you can decide which is your preference, but definitely make an educated descision here.

Wood selection/sourcing is another difference in cue makers. Some makers may have tighter selection criteria than others (wood species, age, storage, regional source, appearence). This is something that will also affect the cues feel but in a more often in a subtle way. You may not be as particular as some of the cue makers and players are though... For many, the materials selection from any of the well known cue brands is good enough for them, and they'll never know the difference from one to the other.

As a guide? I'd say it might be more effective find as many other players as you can who have different cues, ask to try them out and see which ones you like and which you don't. Taking recommendations from experienced players is fine if you can't test, but keep in mind at lot of good players don't understand much about cues, but just know what they like and what works for them... Nothing wrong with that, and that does not apply to all players. But I don't think you would go wrong with a Schon, Mezz, OB, Predator, or for less money a Lucasi, McDermott, or Viking (those aren't the only choices or quality brands, just what I've tried). You can get used to any one of those, but it's definitely better to know what you want before you pop down the $.

Once you do buy your new cue, keep in mind it will take a few weeks to a couple months of consistant play to get used to it. If something is just plain wrong, send it back. But if you are just not used to it, that will take time to overcome.
 
there have been many threads on here concerning this subject but i do not recall any one giving the advice i am going to give you.

disregard the name on the cue, buy what feels good to you. i went through the stage where you are at now. i bought ,sold , and traded cues looking for the magic wand. un fortunately i traded the best playing cue i have ever owned for one that i thought was better. i have tried to buy that cue back several times offering a nice profit but he refuses, saying its the best playing cue he has ever owned lol. thats my advice on what feels good to you subject.

now for the rest of your post; i hate to bust your bubble but you are not going to find a predator for 250.00 unless it is counterfiet.

may i ask why you want a low deflection cue ? i am assuming you do not currently play with one. if you have been playing for a while and have never shot with a low deflection cue i must warn you it does take some getting used to. i own 3 and always go back to my standard shafts. i just dont like the feel of low deflection shafts.

if you feel you want to go the low deflection route within the 250.00 you mentioned i would suggest the players hxt or mc dermott g-core. in my opinion either one is a good low deflection cue without breaking the bank. i would hate for you to do what i did. i paid 1,400.00 for a predator , did not like it so i stuck it in the closet . eventuelly gave it to my girlfriend and i gotta say she plays better with it than any other cue she has ever shot with, go figure that one.

I would have to second this post. It's got to feel right in your hands. There are a bunch of LD shafts out there, I think the most popular are probably the Predators and the OB's, and for me I own both and they can't be beat, but I haven't had the chance to try every one there is. But really, if your Mali is good to you but you'd like to try an LD shaft then try one, but no need to fix what ain't broke, you know
 
Nothing wrong with a Mali. I would have to think there is someone in the Cleveland area that has a few used cues for sale or trade. Your best research will be hitting balls with as many cues as you can. Then try to figure out why you like the ones you like.

Larry
 
Find a cue maker who will make you a ld shaft, they don't have to be laminated to be low deflection. There are quite a few cue makers who are making them to order, I think. I've never liked laminated shafts but my ld shafts do play great.
 
since you are in oh. drive up to toledo and try 20-30 cues from production to high end custom and see the difference call 734-693-3177 it will save you alot on wasted cues trying this and that and paying all the way! 734-693-3177 bill www.customcues.com this way you walk away with something that fits you and your stroke!
 
My ceiling is probably $250 for a cue. If I wait I might be able to afford a little more. Right now I do like my Mali. It feels a heck of a lot better than my other two Sear's and Dick's sporting goods cues, but I was hoping an LD cue might offer an advantage like a big headed driver versus a smaller one in golf. I've never stroked a ball with an LD cue though so I have no idea. I'll either have to buddy up to someone at the pool hall or drive to Toledo like Cornerstone says.
 
Buy a predator shaft

If you are just looking for performance...buy a predator shaft for your Mali and you are set until you can increase your budget to 450... Where you can trade your Mali and your cash into a custom cue that has the same joint as your Mali, so you can keep your predator shaft and use on your NEW cue !!!
 
I think you should hit with a predator/ob before shelling out 2 bills for them. There's NO WAY that no one in your pool hall as them; in fact, you'll be hard pressed to find someone WITHOUT them.

As mentioned, LD shafts are acquired tastes. If you play at a B or higher level, I don't think the change to LD shafts are worth it at all. Stick to traditional maple, just move up. If you're not at that level, I think it could be worth learning the game ground up using LD shafts, but you'd still have to pick the one you like most. And they all hit REAL different, and no one can tell you what's better but yourself.

For me personally, I absolutely hate the OB-1 and OB-2. I can't stand the sound nor the feel in my backhand. Everything is off. The OB Classic is a lot more tolerable. The predators are nice on certain cues, but I don't like them on everything. I like them on a SS joint though. And Mezz probably makes the best LD out of all of them imo; best quality wood as they don't resort to any of that pie-constructed balsa wood-esque shafts. They feel and look like a traditional cue and deflect like a predator.
 
If you like your $90 Mali, and shoot well with it. Tell every one to F right off!!!! I get my ass (with my $4k cue) handed to me by a plain jane cuetec R360 when ever a certain fella name Shane stops through town. It is, and always will be, the INDIAN, not the ARROW!!!!

good shooting to you sir,


Justin
 
:confused:

I really don't know the difference between cues, except that I like the feel of my $90 Mali better than both my "titanium" Mizerak and "graphite" Minnesota Fats. I'm told that if I want to get a serious low deflection cue I need to pony up at least $250 for something like a Predator cue. Is there a good guide or good advice for comparing and selecting a good cue? What's the main difference between the makers? I'm guessing something like Predator is highly commercialized whereas something like Schon is mom and pop shop hand craftmanship.

You have the right to be confused. It takes Marketing engineering, and advertisement skills to try to convince you of a product. Basically they take advantage of the so many variables the game have and tell you , cue will have no deflection, great, will sell you a laminated tip for accuracy, they will tell you expensive design for killer attitude, and so on. Once you reach the ultimate experience in pool knowledge you will start to find out how true or falls ads are. Some will go along and try if you have the money why not but truly your game will improve in one area and suffer in another, some will resist the temptation, and never improve. The fact is if a pro plays with any cue from $10 to $10000, they will still be a pro, that is mainly because they know the inner of the game and how to adjust to everything, cue, tip, cloth, rails, weather...you name it. Efren back in the 80's used to play with $15 cue, and was the best at it.
My advice to you, pick small shaft 11-11.75 mm, those seem to be the optimal Dia between less deflection and comfort bridging. Best of luck, oh you need that too, unfortunately no one can sell it until you live the 2nd life they say it comes in good packages!!!!
 
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