cue's path
- Thread starter John Brumback
- Start date
I don't believe that.
It is 1 1/8" from the edge of the cueball. j/k, joining the joking.
I know what you mean but will let others answer.)
Yep,it's something along those lines. Seems to me that top players can do it no problem.(maybe that's why their top players,lol) but It can wreak havoc on lesser players tryin to twist their cue or changin the angle of the cue as it goes through the impact area.I have always been kinda of afraid to try teach a method that could mess someone's game up for awhile.I have heard of "tuck and roll" but I would like to understand it better and to be able to explain it better.You did a pretty good job,I think.Thanks,John B.
We need a Dr.
IF I remember correctly, Dr. Dave, in his slow motion video DVD , he said that once the tip hits the surface of the ball it leaves faster than you could ever do what you asking John. The rebound of the ball off of the tip happens to fast to influence the direction or path by moving off of a straight path.
IF I remember correctly, Dr. Dave, in his slow motion video DVD , he said that once the tip hits the surface of the ball it leaves faster than you could ever do what you asking John. The rebound of the ball off of the tip happens to fast to influence the direction or path by moving off of a straight path.
Maybe I have a sticky sponge for a tip and a quick wrist,lol JK. Ok but what about the angle at which you go through the cball "the stroke path"? Could that have an affect on the outcome of a pool shot,I think it can but it might be something that can't be taught or learned very easy. Thanks for your time
John B.But if the cue is rotating prior to making contact, the friction between the tip and ball will act somewhat like ball-ball friction (i.e., throw):
There's no real advantage to it as the same thing can be achieved with a perfectly straight stroke, and likely more accurately:
Affecting the cueball's spin/direction with a swiping stroke becomes less and less doable as you move away from centerball.....unless your stroke becomes nothing much more than a monstrous swipe.
Jim
I am confident, John, that the swiping or swooping or nipping or whatever people want to call it is not what's causing the difference you notice.
You are like a circus dolphin trying to teach turtles to jump gracefully through a hoop ;-)
Seriously, though, to get the most turn requires getting the highest spin-to-speed ratio on the object ball when the object ball reached the cushion. And this is a subtle thing. It's not the same thing as getting the most spin (i.e., highest spin-to-speed ratio) on the object ball right away. You do that by stunning the cueball into the object ball at low speed. But that spinning object ball loses it's spin on the way to the cushion. So it's a tradeoff: you have to hit it a little harder, getting less initial spin but retaining more of that spin at the cushion.
You know all of this stuff instinctively --just how to hit it to maximize the turn when the object ball is a certain distance from the rail on particular cloth.
Mr. Jim,
Well stated. Many want to elude to the very short tip contact time as making some things impossibly. However if the motion is incorporated or put into operation prior to contact some or many of those things can be accomplished, especially with a soft tip that allows maybe as much as twice the contact time of a hard tip.
The effects may seem small, but even 1 mm can make the difference between a ball that drops & one that gets rattled or ponited out. To me, any difference IS significant.
Best Regards to You &
LOL I like that about the dolfin.But can you explain how I turn the object a lot without turning the cball any? I still think it has something to do with the stroke path.But my stroke looks straight. It kinda seems like I can make the cball stick to the oball to make it turn and or hold more.This is the only part of my pool game that I cannot explain in great detail.Thanks for your time also.Catch ya later,I gots to go practice.John B.
Banks
Banned
I've heard about the 'tuck and roll' or whatever it may be, to create a different angle of approach for certain shots that won't go otherwise, but from what little I attempted it seemed really difficult. I thought the same thing about full cue jumps, though.
What I was wondering was the stroke used. Is it merely contacting the same CB point at an angle? Was it a pop stroke? I noticed in the first video that there were some banks that got some air after the rail. Could it be that you're actually getting a little air before hitting the OB?
Aside from that, the only other thing I could think of would be what Mike said. You're so good at hitting the CB just right to create what you want that it is almost always going to have a greater effect than somebody else trying to copy you.
What I was wondering was the stroke used. Is it merely contacting the same CB point at an angle? Was it a pop stroke? I noticed in the first video that there were some banks that got some air after the rail. Could it be that you're actually getting a little air before hitting the OB?
Aside from that, the only other thing I could think of would be what Mike said. You're so good at hitting the CB just right to create what you want that it is almost always going to have a greater effect than somebody else trying to copy you.
Is this for shots where the object ball is cut by about 20-30 degrees?
No, you're wrong. Center cue ball is at a central point equidistant from the perimeter. And you'd need a drill (or bandsaw) to get to it.
-Sean <-- pulling a duckie
Why is that not true? I blieve that I read somewhere on Dr. Dave's site that a hard tip results in a contact time of about 1/1000 of a second & that a soft tip resulted in a contact time of nearly 2/1000 of a second. Is that incorrect?
Did I mis-read or mis-understand?
Are you disputing the specifics or are you 'suggesting' that a soft tip does not result in ANY longer contact time?
I wish you would have elaborated, instead of just saying 'NOT TRUE!'
What was your intent of a full cap two word post?
I do believe that you can impart more spin to the cue ball by using an accelerated stroke (which contrary to popular opinion here, I believe does kkep the cue in contact with the cue ball longer) along with some sideways wrist action as the cue remains in contact with the cueball (however short a time that period may be).
What has me confused though is how you claim to not be putting spin on the cue ball yet transfering spin to the object ball. I understand where Bob was going when he asked the question about the angle but imo the collision would not induce the kind of spin you are reffering to. Perhaps you are in fact putting a lot of spin on the cue ball and there is something you do that allows more of the spin to transfer to the object ball?
What has me confused though is how you claim to not be putting spin on the cue ball yet transfering spin to the object ball. I understand where Bob was going when he asked the question about the angle but imo the collision would not induce the kind of spin you are reffering to. Perhaps you are in fact putting a lot of spin on the cue ball and there is something you do that allows more of the spin to transfer to the object ball?