What kind of break cue is best?

Gogafem

Gogafem

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What weight is best? Is a lighter cue better or a heavier cue better? Please explain the difference. Also, leather tip or phenolic?
Any cues you can recommend? I've heard that cheap ±100$ light break cues break really really well in some posts.
I was thinking of going custom with a Jim Pierce cue and that's my biggest consideration at the moment.

Edit:

Here is a list of considerations:

1) Pierce custom
2) Predator BK2/Predator BK3
3) Mezz Break Cue(The one that was about 300$)
4) OB Break cue black
 
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The best one is the one that makes you the most balls and leaves the cue ball where you want it when all is said and done. Everyone will have their opinions on what works best for them. Plunking down serious cash for a break cue you haven't play-tested is a gamble, IMHO.

Edit: that being said, my personal preference is for a cue that's around 17 oz., or about 15 percent lighter than my playing cue, with a long pro taper (15"), and a one-piece phenolic ferrule/tip that's on the big side of 13mm in diameter, shaped to about a quarter radius.

I feel like I can accelerate the cue through the cue ball better with a lighter cue. Maybe it gives me a thousandth of a second more contact time with the cue ball; probably not, because the phenolic tip likely doesn't compress and rebound like I imagine a hard leather tip might. But it feels good to me. Likewise with a long pro taper. I prefer it to a conical taper as I feel I can maintain a closed bridge longer for a smoother follow through. I perceive no more deflection or less accuracy compared to a conical tapered shaft. I like that I don't have to maintain my phenolic tip. Then again, I've never shot with a leather tip. I may put one on a break shaft I'm having made for a comparison. I'm pretty happy with cue ball control right now; maybe I'll be even happier with a leather tip.

The break cue,described above, that sees the most use is a 17.2 oz Cuetec jump/break with a shaft from one of their Thunderbolt cues, with the SST finish sanded off and the tip and ferrule replaced with a one-piece G10 unit. I also have an 18.8 oz Phillippi j/b with a one-piece tip/ferrule that breaks well, but I'm a little concerned that the sneaky Pete joints won't hold up to long-term breaking use; I'm going to have a player shaft made for it. I also have a Taiwanese Sledgehammer, for which I am waiting on a BTX shaft with a one-piece ferrule/tip from Mike G himself. That should improve the performance of the cue tremendously. We'll see what it ends up weighing overall; the Sledge butt is 14.9 oz. YMMV, of course, but so far my cheapest break cue has been my best performer.
 
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Gogafem said:
What weight is best? Is a lighter cue better or a heavier cue better? Please explain the difference. Also, leather tip or phenolic?
Any cues you can recommend? I've heard that cheap ±100$ light break cues break really really well in some posts.
I was thinking of going custom with a Jim Pierce cue and that's my biggest consideration at the moment.
Click to expand...

Try the Search button and you will find endless comments on break cues.

After 58 years of play, I prefer lighter, shorter break cues.
 
Whatever works for you. There is no right answer, I've tried many and have now just use my custom playing cue. Try a bunch out, use what you like! You'll get 100 different answers here IMHO>.
 
Break Cues

You might want to try out an Alex Brick Dymondwood, a Mike Gulyassey SledgeHammer, and a Steve Lomax. They also make very good ones as well as the list you started.
 
Lighter is better--the cue impacts the CB faster.
Harder tips are better--more energy transfer.

The maker of the cue and kind of cue is almost completely irrelevent.
 
MitchAlsup said:
Lighter is better--the cue impacts the CB faster.
Harder tips are better--more energy transfer.

The maker of the cue and kind of cue is almost completely irrelevent.
Click to expand...

I've always thought that is debatable.

I think it really depends on how strong you are. Since acceleration = mass * speed it probably shouldnt matter and it turns into more of a personal preference.

Lets say you hit the ball with more speed because the cue weighs less. You are increasing the speed but decreasing the mass. If you use a cue that weighs more you are increasing the mass but decreasing the speed.

The only time you run into an issue with the above is if you are strong enough to create the same speed with a heavier cue that you are able to do with a lighter stick.


In the end it really comes down to personal preference.

I use a Scorpion breaker with a Samsara tip. It breaks like a champ but then the primary thing I look for in a breaker is how well it can handle being bent since I tend to flex the cue quite a bit during the break.

If I was to buy a new breaker I would probably get the BK3.
 
Don't buy a break cue before testing it. When testing a break cue always test its squirt while breaking. A break cue with a pivot point close, if not dead on your natural break bridge length will help you out a lot.

As far as weight goes? No right or wrong weight. Each to their own. Try finding one that you can accelerate quickly with, without compromising too drastically on the weight.

As with weight, tip choice is highly debatable and there isn't a "best tip". I've used an icebreaker for a long time and I wouldn't turn to a different tip, probably ever. I'm sure if I tested some other tips I'd find one that adds a little extra umph to my break, but I just like the icebreaker, for no particular reason other than I'm confident it will break the balls how I want and expect it to.

So yeah...try out as many cues as possible before buying.

Good luck
 
There is a theory that ideal break cue weight has to do with how your muscles were formed -
how many fast-twitch muscles you have in your body, vs. how many slow-twitch muscles.
See this link for more details.

Most people are born with about a 50/50 mix. But some have more fast-twitch fibers. I think the idea is that people lucky enough to have extra fast-twitch muscles can generate more explosive force in a short time.

The theory sounds believable, but it's not clear to me which muscle type prefers which cue weight. Maybe people with fast-twitch muscles can move a heavy cue to top speed faster, so for them it's ideal to have 21+ oz. Then again, maybe the slow-twitch people need that extra weight because more mass brings more power to the cue ball, and their arms can't snap forward fast enough to get the same action from less weight.

Arm length may also be a consideration.

The short answer: it's genetics. Try different weights and see.
 
I make 3 balls every time I use someone else's break cue. Barely make a ball with them once I've made them an offer they can't refuse and bought them.
 
poolrules said:
I think the brand of break cue that is best is the one that works best for you
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Yep!

I have a Predator BK, a BK2, and a McDermott J/B. I've also owned and sold an OB break cue, and a Stinger. None of them gets the job done like my $76 dollar Elite Light Break Cue (15 oz). Some cue snobs wouldn't even be willing to try the Elite, saying it's a cheap Chinese cue. But all I know, is I haven't come up dry on a break once, since I got it back in December. Now, someone else could try the Elite and find it's not a good break cue FOR HIM OR HER. To each his own. Like you said, the best is what works for you!
 
zpele said:
I've always thought that is debatable.

I think it really depends on how strong you are. Since acceleration = mass * speed it probably shouldnt matter and it turns into more of a personal preference.

Lets say you hit the ball with more speed because the cue weighs less. You are increasing the speed but decreasing the mass. If you use a cue that weighs more you are increasing the mass but decreasing the speed.

The only time you run into an issue with the above is if you are strong enough to create the same speed with a heavier cue that you are able to do with a lighter stick.


In the end it really comes down to personal preference.

I use a Scorpion breaker with a Samsara tip. It breaks like a champ but then the primary thing I look for in a breaker is how well it can handle being bent since I tend to flex the cue quite a bit during the break.

If I was to buy a new breaker I would probably get the BK3.
Click to expand...
We have this debate at softball all the time and pretty much the idea is you want to use a bat that you can swing fast and under control.
 
CreeDo said:
There is a theory that ideal break cue weight has to do with how your muscles were formed -
how many fast-twitch muscles you have in your body, vs. how many slow-twitch muscles.
See this link for more details.

Most people are born with about a 50/50 mix. But some have more fast-twitch fibers. I think the idea is that people lucky enough to have extra fast-twitch muscles can generate more explosive force in a short time.

The theory sounds believable, but it's not clear to me which muscle type prefers which cue weight. Maybe people with fast-twitch muscles can move a heavy cue to top speed faster, so for them it's ideal to have 21+ oz. Then again, maybe the slow-twitch people need that extra weight because more mass brings more power to the cue ball, and their arms can't snap forward fast enough to get the same action from less weight.

Arm length may also be a consideration.

The short answer: it's genetics. Try different weights and see.
Click to expand...

this actually used to be my thought process on this as well, as I am a rather large human being lol (6 foot 5, 265lbs.)

however, working with Hillbilly for about 20minutes at a tournament in TX a few years back, my mind was drastically changed.

I used to thing that becaues i was "big and slow" that I needed this huge club to smash the balls with... NOT TRUE

and the whole idea of 12 oz break cues and the craziness in that whole realm... meh

what I have found is that ITS AN EVEN TRADE... you can move a lighter cue faster, but it has less mass; you will deliver a heavy cue slower, but the additional mass of the cue will "drive" the ball more easily

the laws of physics are static kinetic energy=mv2 (massxvelocity)

so the weight of the cue only sacrifices ball delivery in one of those two variables....


the key is 2 fold
comfort and efficient transfer of energy

its really that simple...

just like a true well stroked draw shot, its not about how hard you hit it, its about how good you hit it.

i am capable of breaking 30mph+ consistently IF I CHOOSE TO, but its pointless, there is less than no control, and the cons far outweigh the pros.

you are much better off hitting the rack PERFECT at 18mph, than you are crushing the rack with a "less than perfect hit"

I have been fortunate enough to spend a large amount of time on my break and have settled into the 24mph break that squats whitey and usually make 1-3 balls.

thats just my take though... fast twich, slow twich, light, heavy... doesnt matter...

HIT THE BALL WELL!!!!
 
zpele said:
Since acceleration = mass * speed it probably shouldnt matter and it turns into more of a personal preference.
Click to expand...

No idea which is better but I needed to point out that momentum = mass * velocity (speed) and force = mass * acceleration and kenetic Energy = 0.5 * mass * velocity * velocity. Acceleration = distance/(time * time) or the change in velocity which is distance/time.

Velocity: v=d/t
Acceleration: a=d/(t^2)
Force: F=M*a
Momentum: p=m*v
Kenetic Energy: Ek=.5*m*(v^2)
 
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Gogafem said:
What weight is best? Is a lighter cue better or a heavier cue better? Please explain the difference. Also, leather tip or phenolic?
Any cues you can recommend? I've heard that cheap ±100$ light break cues break really really well in some posts.
I was thinking of going custom with a Jim Pierce cue and that's my biggest consideration at the moment.

Edit:

Here is a list of considerations:

1) Pierce custom
2) Predator BK2/Predator BK3
3) Mezz Break Cue(The one that was about 300$)
4) OB Break cue black
Click to expand...

I have had every cue on your list. They all break well. But for what its worth, the Mezz PB2 works best for me. I once had an original Jerry Powers made Stinger that I never should have sold. If you get a Pierce, get a playing shaft as well. His cues play great!
 
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I've had about all of them, including several customs, and am now using a Mezz Powerbreak Pro, which really has a competitive edge for an explosive break and a super comfortable feel. To keep it simple, I'd suggest about a half ounce lighter than your playing cue to get your best break.
 
I used to use an old Stratford that I put a one piece tip/ferrule combo on and pulled the weight bolt. I'm guessing it was 15-16oz. I broke with this for about three years with great success. My nine ball break was fantastic, but eight ball and ten ball were lacking a little. Tommy Reid is a cue maker in this area known for his break cues and he recomended that your break cue only be an ounce difference from your player (higher or lower). Before shelling out the dough for a custom TR cue I wanted to try an 18oz break/jump. I purchased a McDermott Stinger NGTR2 (still available on eBay for $150) at 18oz with a two piece phenolic tip and ferrule. I've had it for a year and have no reason to replace it. It has the mass I need to get through the harder racks, but is light enough to give me good "bat speed". Everyone who says try before you buy is right, or you could buy something less expensive with the specs you think you might like to really help you decide before you spend hundreds. The next thing I want to try is putting a samsara tip on mine.

Also, can't go wrong with a BK2
 
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