I aim and shoot using the shaft to aim on fractional aiming. Well I use the outside of left side of the shaft to go left and outside of the right side of the shaft to go right. Almost how shane vanboening does it but his a little more additional on the shaft. I just use outside of the shaft. I wanna work on a another different aiming system instead of just on the one I use. I feel that 85% of time I aim is right on the shot and other 15% is guessing. I wanna be at least 95% and making balls. Is there any aiming system that is easy understanding to know and learn? I tried Pro one/CTE and that didn't work for me so went back to way I aim. So any suggestion to learn and work on???? I am alway up to learn new things so let me know please. if need to do a little more explaining in the detail and more writing then please to e-mail me at hoffmanj871985@gmail.com
Give me a simple easy aim system
- Thread starter Jpool1985
- Start date
Have you tried the PIITH aiming system ?
Easy to understand, easy to learn.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_q4jEPmHFa8
Easy to understand, easy to learn.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_q4jEPmHFa8
And, it's the only system guaranteed to work for all situations. Wet cloth, funny pockets, warped cue, psychotic opponent -- it covers them all.
90/90 is easy.
I put the stick down along the line that feels right for the shot I'm shooting, usually. Rarely I'll add something to that like the lens-shaped overlap for thin cuts.
Where can I learn about this system?
If you have dark colored cloth( green) .then use light colored chalk ( masters green)
set up a shot with hole reinforcers so that you put the cue ball and object ball back in the same place every time...
chalk heavily before each attempt and keep shooting the ball in 15-20 times with similar spin, if you are shooting 2 tips of follow .. then shoot that way every shot this session.. now after a while the tangent line will draw itself on the table with the light chalk roughly 2-3 inches long (regardless of spin)..
the point that the line begins is the holy grail (the almighty adjusted center of the ghost ball) now shoot 20 more by aiming at that point.. point your cue stick through the center of the CB at that point forget about the object ball once you can see your point aim at that spot on the cloth..you can move the CB all over the table but that target stays the same.. clean the table and start new tomorrow with a different angle and different spin.
after substantial practice you begin to see that point in your minds eye even without the chalk assist.
set up a shot with hole reinforcers so that you put the cue ball and object ball back in the same place every time...
chalk heavily before each attempt and keep shooting the ball in 15-20 times with similar spin, if you are shooting 2 tips of follow .. then shoot that way every shot this session.. now after a while the tangent line will draw itself on the table with the light chalk roughly 2-3 inches long (regardless of spin)..
the point that the line begins is the holy grail (the almighty adjusted center of the ghost ball) now shoot 20 more by aiming at that point.. point your cue stick through the center of the CB at that point forget about the object ball once you can see your point aim at that spot on the cloth..you can move the CB all over the table but that target stays the same.. clean the table and start new tomorrow with a different angle and different spin.
after substantial practice you begin to see that point in your minds eye even without the chalk assist.
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Bob, when you say that you "put the stick down" is that as you're stepping into your stance or while you're still standing, before you begin your approach? (I'm not referring to laying the cue down and letting go--- I mean in your hand).
Back of the Ball aiming is a technique not a system.
Visualize two parallel lines on either side of the object ball to the center of the pocket. Then look for the center on the back of the object ball between these two lines that allows you to create a line of aim through the object ball to the pocket. This is the contact point that runs through the object ball plus 6 – 9 inches. I call it a nine inch nail that runs from about 1 1/4 inches behind the object ball through the object ball to the pocket. Continue to stare at this contact point and line of travel as you walk into and bend over the shot.
When you are in the shooting position and the contact point and line of travel are fixed in your mind, use the front dead center of the cue ball to strike the object ball contact point and move the object ball down a line that runs through the object ball plus 6 – 9 inches. This works for a straight in shot. The cue stick should travel down this line of aim from six inches behind the cue ball to six inches past the cue ball. It takes some effort and practice to learn where the front dead center of the cue ball is located.
Visualize the cue stick staying on line all the way to the object ball contact point. When there is a long distance between the cue ball and the object ball I will often create an intermediate target half way to the object ball that would be a dot or some others spot on the cloth used as a reference point that shows a straight line to the contact point. Do not move your body until after the cue ball strikes the object ball.
After you have learned where the front dead center is on the cue ball you can begin to learn where the front of the cue ball strikes the contact point for an off angle.
While we all make adjustments to set the stick on line it is important to recognize that you must have a perfectly still body when executing the shot. Like a marksman with a pistol. Place your weight on your heals, brace yourself, stop breathing and swing only your forearm from the elbow down.
Well that ought to get a rise out of somebody, that is one of the reasons I posted it. Later you can add various forms of cue ball control as needed. I would suggest reviewing Joe Tucker’s simultaneous use of front and back hand offsets for learning cue ball control. His videos are on the net Here is a place to start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYsNj7EXaAA
Visualize two parallel lines on either side of the object ball to the center of the pocket. Then look for the center on the back of the object ball between these two lines that allows you to create a line of aim through the object ball to the pocket. This is the contact point that runs through the object ball plus 6 – 9 inches. I call it a nine inch nail that runs from about 1 1/4 inches behind the object ball through the object ball to the pocket. Continue to stare at this contact point and line of travel as you walk into and bend over the shot.
When you are in the shooting position and the contact point and line of travel are fixed in your mind, use the front dead center of the cue ball to strike the object ball contact point and move the object ball down a line that runs through the object ball plus 6 – 9 inches. This works for a straight in shot. The cue stick should travel down this line of aim from six inches behind the cue ball to six inches past the cue ball. It takes some effort and practice to learn where the front dead center of the cue ball is located.
Visualize the cue stick staying on line all the way to the object ball contact point. When there is a long distance between the cue ball and the object ball I will often create an intermediate target half way to the object ball that would be a dot or some others spot on the cloth used as a reference point that shows a straight line to the contact point. Do not move your body until after the cue ball strikes the object ball.
After you have learned where the front dead center is on the cue ball you can begin to learn where the front of the cue ball strikes the contact point for an off angle.
While we all make adjustments to set the stick on line it is important to recognize that you must have a perfectly still body when executing the shot. Like a marksman with a pistol. Place your weight on your heals, brace yourself, stop breathing and swing only your forearm from the elbow down.
Well that ought to get a rise out of somebody, that is one of the reasons I posted it. Later you can add various forms of cue ball control as needed. I would suggest reviewing Joe Tucker’s simultaneous use of front and back hand offsets for learning cue ball control. His videos are on the net Here is a place to start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYsNj7EXaAA
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As I'm coming down. I usually do not do "port arms" with the cue stick prior to getting down although I have been experimenting with making sure my stick is exactly along the line of the shot when I'm standing.
Bob,
I just viewed your TWO TIMES FULLER SYSTEM on YouTube. Great job on your explanation and demonstration for those type shots.
It was very clear that you played each shot from a visual offset resulting in right visual sweeps to center cue ball. You did those perfectly!
Your answer to Fran was correct. It's always great to identify respected players that employ visual sweeps.
CTE PRO ONE allows for consistent objective visual offsets for all shots. The offsets represent a first step in connecting with the pockets.
Your right sweeps are great! I'd like to locate some video of you playing a match and see if you use left sweeps as well. Are you aware of any match play for you on YouTube or VIMEO?
Stan Shuffett
When you experiment with placing your cue in the line of the shot while standing, where is your head and torso?
I start by straddling the aim line between my two feet, then take my first step on the line. My arm goes over my foot and that places my stick on the aim line. There are different techniques and I'm wondering which one you're leaning towards for yourself.
The butt of my cue is against my right hip and my right foot does not move from that position as I get down. The tip is near the ball.
The easiest "aiming system" is the Kentucky Windage system.
The easiest "aiming system" is the Kentucky Windage system....it's simple, if you over cut a shot, set it up and hit it fuller, if you undercut a shot, set it up and hit it thinner.
Our subconscious is capable of driving a car across town, this takes WAY more "mental horsepower" than pocketing balls on a pool table. The issue is few people can hit the cue ball straight so their subconscious is playing a "guessing game" and that doesn't work very well and does little for the players confidence.
Get down on each shot as if you've already made it, you'll be surprised what you're mind can do "IF" you have faith and trust it. So spend a few hours learning how to hit the cue ball straight BEFORE you start worrying about aiming....it simply won't matter.
The easiest "aiming system" is the Kentucky Windage system....it's simple, if you over cut a shot, set it up and hit it fuller, if you undercut a shot, set it up and hit it thinner.
Our subconscious is capable of driving a car across town, this takes WAY more "mental horsepower" than pocketing balls on a pool table. The issue is few people can hit the cue ball straight so their subconscious is playing a "guessing game" and that doesn't work very well and does little for the players confidence.
Get down on each shot as if you've already made it, you'll be surprised what you're mind can do "IF" you have faith and trust it. So spend a few hours learning how to hit the cue ball straight BEFORE you start worrying about aiming....it simply won't matter.
OK, and where is your head relative to the aim line at that point? My question is: How are you seeing the aim line in order to place your cue on it? Are you leaning right so your head is over your right hip, or are you standing sideways to your cue and looking over your left shoulder, or something else?
Because, if you're standing perpindicular to your stick at that point, our physiology would dictate that your head would be significantly left of your right hip. Just wondering how you deal with that.
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This takes pressure off the back/neck, and gives a better "sight line"..
A player can stand directly on the "line of the shot" and get down on that line IF they learn how to clear their hips (I also use my right hip as a reference point for this movement).
This is something a lot of the top pros do, however to teach it the student must be willing to work on their footwork. Clearing that hip is like rubbing your stomach and patting your head (conflicting movements), however it's VERY worth while to learn, then you can go straight down to the shot line, and look at it like you would look straight at anything else in life.
This takes pressure off the back/neck, and gives a better "sight line".....I changed my game to do this in 1991 after my first Pro Tournament. I'm really glad I did, it enabled me to play at a higher level for longer periods of time with no pressure on my neck or back.
A player can stand directly on the "line of the shot" and get down on that line IF they learn how to clear their hips (I also use my right hip as a reference point for this movement).
This is something a lot of the top pros do, however to teach it the student must be willing to work on their footwork. Clearing that hip is like rubbing your stomach and patting your head (conflicting movements), however it's VERY worth while to learn, then you can go straight down to the shot line, and look at it like you would look straight at anything else in life.
This takes pressure off the back/neck, and gives a better "sight line".....I changed my game to do this in 1991 after my first Pro Tournament. I'm really glad I did, it enabled me to play at a higher level for longer periods of time with no pressure on my neck or back.