Break shaft on playing cue

Thanks for all the opinions guys.

When I refer to "cheaping out on a cue" I'm basically talking about anything in the $30-$50 range. I'd never consider an $80 cue a "cheap cue." I clearly have some decision to make about where I go from here.

Thanks, guys!

I'm not sure if you were Referring to my post with the "cheap cue." and I apologize if I came off bad because I don't think 80 Dollars is a Cheap cue either but my Break cue was only 18.00 Dollars that's why I called it Cheap I'm not sure how you feel about Fiberglass as a Break cue but I Love mine

Heres a Link I Bought mine 3 years ago and the Price has went up a LiL bit since but I would buy one again if I had to at 25.00 ~> http://www.iszybilliards.com/item/58_2_piece_fiberglass_pool_cue_black/312/c103

and after the Oem Tip wears off you throw a Samsara Tip on this Bad Larry and you will have a Heavy Hitter on your Hands
 
I play with a OB break shaft, with a G2 tip on it. It crushes the rack, and runs out.:thumbup:
 
sorry i didnt go thru all the posts
ive put a break shaft on a "regular " butt for breaking and used a different cue for my player
one difference is that most break cues the butt weight is lighter
and some beleive a lighter break cue weight gives more acceleration/power
 
Thanks for all the opinions guys.

When I refer to "cheaping out on a cue" I'm basically talking about anything in the $30-$50 range. I'd never consider an $80 cue a "cheap cue." I clearly have some decision to make about where I go from here.

Thanks, guys!

An $80 is a cheap cue, although that is relative to how much money you have, but in the non-toy cue market, that is very low if you look at where the quality made cues start. Hard to find one with for under $200. Even the good China made stuff goes to over $100.

Get a Lucky McDermott cue and break with that, you can replace the tip on it with a break tip for $20 extra. I bought a new Lucky cue for $45 a few weeks ago, not the best balance or feel but it looks to be made good enough to last for a while. I liked it because they used the same 3/8x10 pin that many quality cuemakers use, and it also happened to be what my cue used. You can even break with the cue as is, and not bother about the tip.

Not to sound mean, but if you think $80 is not cheap for a cue, your skill level is probably low enough that it won't matter much what break cue you use. Like getting a Ferrari to learn to drive a stick shift on, sure it's neat to have, but you would be better off with a cheap car with a much easier to handle shifter and power.
 
An $80 is a cheap cue, although that is relative to how much money you have, but in the non-toy cue market, that is very low if you look at where the quality made cues start. Hard to find one with for under $200. Even the good China made stuff goes to over $100.

Get a Lucky McDermott cue and break with that, you can replace the tip on it with a break tip for $20 extra. I bought a new Lucky cue for $45 a few weeks ago, not the best balance or feel but it looks to be made good enough to last for a while. I liked it because they used the same 3/8x10 pin that many quality cuemakers use, and it also happened to be what my cue used. You can even break with the cue as is, and not bother about the tip.

Not to sound mean, but if you think $80 is not cheap for a cue, your skill level is probably low enough that it won't matter much what break cue you use. Like getting a Ferrari to learn to drive a stick shift on, sure it's neat to have, but you would be better off with a cheap car with a much easier to handle shifter and power.

I don't mean to get off Topic and I apologize but you learn something new everyday because I never knew how much you were willing to pay for a cue had anything to do with your Skill level?,, very interesting
 
I don't mean to get off Topic and I apologize but you learn something new everyday because I never knew how much you were willing to pay for a cue had anything to do with your Skill level?,, very interesting

I know lots of bad player with pricy cues. What I was saying is that looking for something that is not needed, is, well, not needed. It's just what I think in this situation. There is a difference between what someone is willing to pay or how high end they want their toys to be vs what actually matches what they can accomplish. We all saw videos and pictures of people crashing their 400 horsepower cars because they don't know that you can't drive them like your 120HP Civic.

A bad violin player won't be much better with a $10,000 violin vs a $200 one. A C or D player won't get a better break or game because of a pricier cue. If someone can't control the cueball or scratches off the break, a best low deflection diamond crusted cue won't change that.
 
i must of took this the Wrong way "Not to sound mean, but if you think $80 is not cheap for a cue, your skill level is probably low enough" because i thought you were saying if you think 80$ isn't a cheap Cue your a Low Level player and i don't think 80 is a cheap cue and my opinion on that doesn't change my skill level at all Some people like to spend thousands on a cue and that's Fine i like to spend my money on different toys such as motorcycles & ATVs,, in anycase Sorry i just read your post the wrong way
 
i must of took this the Wrong way "Not to sound mean, but if you think $80 is not cheap for a cue, your skill level is probably low enough" because i thought you were saying if you think 80$ isn't a cheap Cue your a Low Level player and i don't think 80 is a cheap cue and my opinion on that doesn't change my skill level at all Some people like to spend thousands on a cue and that's Fine i like to spend my money on different toys such as motorcycles & ATVs,, in anycase Sorry i just read your post the wrong way

That wasn't even a reply to your post, it was to the person that started the thread.

And yes, I find that beginners when you say how much a good cue costs are often suprized that it's that much because they are used to seeing the cheap cues in WalMart for $30 and think that is the normal price for a cue and never even know that there are other options available. Therefore when I read that he thought $80 was a lot for a cue (or at least "not cheap"), I concluded that he is "most likely" not a very good player.

Actually, I just noticed you were form Boston, you ever play in Ayer? I'm right next to Worcester. Send me a PM I like meeting AZ people that are local.
 
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That wasn't even a reply to your post, it was to the person that started the thread.

And yes, I find that beginners when you say how much a good cue costs are often suprized that it's that much because they are used to seeing the cheap cues in WalMart for $30 and think that is the normal price for a cue and never even know that there are other options available. Therefore when I read that he thought $80 was a lot for a cue (or at least "not cheap"), I concluded that he is "most likely" not a very good player.

Actually, I just noticed you were form Boston, you ever play in Ayer? I'm right next to Worcester. Send me a PM I like meeting AZ people that are local.

Sure, I'm an amateur who can pot balls pretty well and hasn't competed in any tournaments. That does make me low-level. I own two Schmelke cues, which if you do not know are fantastically-built American cues in the $100 range. They're consistently praised for their value. I've shot with much more expensive cues and found that for the most part, the extra cost is due to detailing and inlaying, while playability is unaffected. That's like comparing an Audi to a Rolls Royce and calling the Audi cheap. An $80 cue can accomplish 99% of shots for 99% of people that a $500 cue can.
 
Sure, I'm an amateur who can pot balls pretty well and hasn't competed in any tournaments. That does make me low-level. I own two Schmelke cues, which if you do not know are fantastically-built American cues in the $100 range. They're consistently praised for their value. I've shot with much more expensive cues and found that for the most part, the extra cost is due to detailing and inlaying, while playability is unaffected. That's like comparing an Audi to a Rolls Royce and calling the Audi cheap. An $80 cue can accomplish 99% of shots for 99% of people that a $500 cue can.

Re-reading your original post, I'm actually pretty much agreeing with you. Sorry mate.

I still stand by my cues.
 
If you don't mind changing out shafts I would not be concerned unless your cue has a lot of inlay work or ivory in it. Generally speaking it is not recommended to break with a cue that you could potentially pop the finish on. If you notice, most break cues are not that fancy or have elaborate inlays. I break with a plain jane early Nova with a custom break shaft, but would never put it on my Schon with Ivory inlays. If you have a 5/16x14 joint let me know, I have a spare custom made break shaft in my case that is pretty reasonable. Thx
 
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