You're pretty new to the forums, read some of his other posts. You will see why these posts are so much fun.
Which type of cue and tip is best for high-powered shooting?
- Thread starter Push&Pool
- Start date
You're pretty new to the forums, read some of his other posts. You will see why these posts are so much fun.
Lets look at what some of the top stoke players in the game use.
Larry Nevel, seems he uses a Lomax cue.http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=210623
Mike Dechaine, I know he uses a Predator shaft, has used a Predator BK butt and last I saw had a Poison butt.
Mike Massey was at the Meucci booth during last years BCA / CSI tournament in Vegas, but I'm not sure if he uses a Meucci.
Get one of those cues.
Even if you still play like a D, once you pull out a good clue like those the other players will be too scared to play you and you'll win by default.
Larry Nevel, seems he uses a Lomax cue.http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=210623
Mike Dechaine, I know he uses a Predator shaft, has used a Predator BK butt and last I saw had a Poison butt.
Mike Massey was at the Meucci booth during last years BCA / CSI tournament in Vegas, but I'm not sure if he uses a Meucci.
Get one of those cues.
Even if you still play like a D, once you pull out a good clue like those the other players will be too scared to play you and you'll win by default.
If you have seen the movie Happy Gilmore it is just like his golf swing. Run at the table with a cue and "RAM" the cue ball so it generates more power.
The only reason I know this is somebody actually wrote a book on pool and added that as one of the shots. I wish I had a link!
What you want is this http://www.pooldawg.com/product/elite-heavy-27oz-banned-break-cue
You got it right, though personally I like to also yell RAM SHOT as loudly as I can while approaching the table.
But remember that this shot is for special purposes and advanced players only. Mainly professionals.
... now do your duty, Atlatlien, and post the picture.
Birriards must be a newbie. Everyone knows that screw-on tips are the best! If you don't like the way the tip is hitting (not enough POWER), just unscrew it and screw on a super-power tip. Try doing that with glue!
The good news is that Walmart carries screw-on tips too. Geez, they've got everything the pool player needs.
Dude, you're ruining my "how'd that go?" action here. (See posts #35, 36, 46, & 47.)
Now I see why they call you "TheNewSharkseter."
-Sean
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You know some people can be downright a**es sometimes. This is a legitimate question. most of the higher skill level players hate playing lower skill level players because of the fact that the lower level players move the balls around a lot and most higher level players try not to move anything they dont have to. Although it is not my playing style, I cant fault him.
If you want a stick that can be used for "power shots", look at your 3 cusion cues. They are made for more of what you are looking for. They have a conical taper which cuts down on deflection. They are usually a little shorter like a bar cue is and they usually have a harder tip. I have an Adrian Verguera 3 cusion cue that I break out any time I want to do a Masse shot, because my regular cue just does not get the same action.
As far as recomendations here are mine and remember these are just my opinions others may disagree. In my opinion you want to get:
A) Something with a harder wood shaft. Try to stay clear of the softer woods you find in "Walmart" type cues.
B) Something with a larger size tip. I would stick between 12 and 13 and stear clear of anything with smaller than 12 unless you really like it.
C) Something with a shorter ferule. The longer the ferule the more deflection you will see. If you look at most of your newer break sticks and many of the Low Deflection shafts they have short ferules.
D) Something with a conical taper. (cone shaped tapered where taper stays same pitch from tip to joint kind of like bar cues are made.) Stay clear of a pro taper. With a conical taper the shaft is stiffer. With a pro taper, usually it changes one milimeter in size from the tip to anywhere from 12 to 16 inches up the shaft and then is conical from there up. Most playing cues today have a pro taper. Some of your cheaper break cues have a conical taper. with a pro taper shaft, you will have more flex in the shaft.
E) Something with a hard tip. Layered or not does not matter, what matters is the hardness. Also when having the tip done have the tip pressed.
F) Something that is feels good to you weight wise. As far as weight goes there are two trains of thought, and both have valid arguments. The first train of thought is, the heavier the stick the more Power you get. The second is the lighter the stick the more power you get. Both are true for different reasons. If you have a heavier stick, once you get the stick going you have more momentum caused by the weight (think of a semi truck hitting a prius) at the point the cue strikes the ball. If you have a lighter stick, you can get it going way faster and although you dont have as much weight causing momentum you have speed causing momentum (think of a fighter jet hitting a prius). If you have one person break with both a heavy hitter (26 ounce break stick) and then a lightning bolt (12 ounce break stick) you will notice more often than not that the breaks are the same break for the most part. It is all in preference of the shooter.
G) Something with a wood to wood joint. This is where you really get into matter of opinion and this is just mine. For a solid feel and hit, I like a joint that is wood to wood and that inserts into the butt not inserts into the shaft like most sticks are today. In my opinion, if it inserts into the butt it helps to disperse the shock of the hit more thoroughly thorough the butt instead of just terminating at the joint.
As far as the butt goes, it is less important than the shaft, so if you already have a butt you like you could just have the shaft made to fit your butt. There is some technology in the butt, but most of your Technology is in the shaft.
Like I said before though it is all in the shooters preferences. You could go out and get a 3 cusion cue, that have most of these traights, is slightly shorter than a regular cue but is still playable for most shots. You could go out and get a Jump/break cue wich have some of these traights and have it modified to play as your daily player. The bonus there would be any time you need to jump, you could just break down your playing cue and jump. Or you could go out and get a butt you like and have a shaft made by one of the fine cue makers here on this site. Dale at Buchanon cues I am sure could get you exactly what you want at a reasonable price.
My personal suggestion would be If you really want to play using the style your talking, but want to stay on the cheap side, go out and get a nice cheap break stick (wich you can pick up for about 60 bucks new now a days) and take it to a local cue repair person and have them remove the phenolic tip, shortent he ferule to about half an inch, and install a pressed lepro or something cheap. (Around 10 to 15 bucks to replace tip) if the taper is bothering you have them adjust that for you too. You could do all of this and still be under a hundred and have exactly what you want.0
I honestly agree with most of the people here that the style of play you are looking for is not the most advantagious to play, however; if it works for you then you do what you gotta do. I dont think there is one person here that plays for money that would refuse money they won by using unorthodox measures. A win is a win and however you choose to get there is your call.
I hope this helps you.
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Did you ever see Happy Gilmore and his golf drive? I think he does something like that at the pool table, that's the best I can make of it anyhow.:rotflmao1::rotflmao1:
How can one hit the cue ball at break speed at a single ball and have any idea where these balls are going besides off the table????
This is what I was thinking as well. If someone played like that at my house they wouldn't be welcomed back. (That was the nicest way I could put it
)
This is what I was thinking as well. If someone played like that at my house they wouldn't be welcomed back. (That was the nicest way I could put it
You mean they'd "leave" your place (for the last time, of course) with the same (or greater) amount of damage that they inflicted on the table?
You mean they'd "leave" your place (for the last time, of course) with the same (or greater) amount of damage that they inflicted on the table?
I think we're back to the .300 Magnum recommendations.
Well, it might have been a legitimate question from someone else, but when it comes from P&P it is immediately suspect. You may want to look at some of his previous posts.
If you weren't all red before, it's unfortunate that you are red now, but some people have lost their senses of humor when it comes to P&P. Related to which, someone above suggested P&P use a Magnum. I think that's overkill. See also, Monty Python's "The Meaning of Life."
You know you've reached a high point of being a low point when Bob Jewett knows who you are in a bad way LOL
