tip hardness

madhatter44 said:
How would you say tip hardness effects draw?
Click to expand...

I would guess that the ball would leave the tip quicker and the tendency without a great follow through that you would get some less. Whether or not that would be a good thing I wouldn't speculate on. That's interesting though.
 
In theory a harder tip could hit the ball harder which would be good for draw, but in practice I doubt that would matter very much. It also might miscue easier if it doesn't hold the chalk as well.
 
Compared to your stroke, the effect of tip hardness is so miniscule as not to be a factor.

I enjoyed the TAR interview with SVB in which he was practicing his draw shot: OB center table, CB in the jaws of a corner pocket, pocket the OB in the opposite corner and draw the CB back into the corner pocket. He said his best was 10 times without missing.

In an interview during an SVB match, John Petrone of Kamui Tips said that SVB used a Kamui Hard and immediately followed that up with "not something I'd recommend for your average player." :D
 
madhatter44 said:
How would you say tip hardness effects draw?
Click to expand...
Try to draw with the phenolic tip on your break cue. Although physics (and posters here) may say there's no difference, I haven't seen anyone draw 2 table lengths with their phenolic tip. I've tried it. Not even close. But I can't really draw anyway.

Come to think of it, I'd actually like to see it done. Anyone have a video of super draw with a phenolic tip?

-td
 
The softer tip conforms more to the surface it contacts (cue ball) therefore more energy is transferred to the contacted surface, hence more draw. However, as mentioned in other responses the stroke is the primary factor.
 
I play with a ultraskin heavy hitter smooth as a baby's butt (no scuff at all since I put it on). I draw fine.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 
I use a hard tip, but I can't draw worth a damn anyways. I've heard that it makes the game easier. :confused:

I've got a flat tip, but can still draw.. about a foot.. sometimes.. on a good day.. in June.
 
Not to hijack your thread but. It really helped me to practice using a dark ball (8, 7, 4,) as a cue ball. Set your shot up with the number facing you along the rail straight in. Start small and slow. Balls a diamond away from each other. Hit a soft draw shot then look at your dark cue ball using the number on the ball as a guage. You will be able to see the chalk mark where you hit the ball. Did you hit it where you planed to hit it. If so did your cue ball come back as far as you thought it would. Next start a log book and get to work.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 
Some of the best draws I've had are done with a tip on the harder side. I believe the belief that softer tips draw better is just simply the fact it holds chalk better and that you have a better chance of hitting a good shot as opposed to a miscue.
 
td873 said:
Try to draw with the phenolic tip on your break cue. Although physics (and posters here) may say there's no difference, I haven't seen anyone draw 2 table lengths with their phenolic tip. I've tried it. Not even close. But I can't really draw anyway.

Come to think of it, I'd actually like to see it done. Anyone have a video of super draw with a phenolic tip?

-td
Click to expand...

It is difficult to chalk up a phenolic tip well enough to hit at extreme parts of the cue ball. Another factor could be because phenolic tips are usually shaped MUCH flatter than a playing leather tip.
 
poolplayer2093 said:
Everyone always brings up the stroke talk. I think the OP means all things bring equal and left out of the equation.then how would the tips hardness effect draw/spin.
Click to expand...

They do that because it is what effects the draw. All things being equal, a super soft tip and a ceramic tip that have the same shape and will hold chalk will result in negligible difference in the amount of draw.
 
nobcitypool said:
They do that because it is what effects the draw. All things being equal, a super soft tip and a ceramic tip that have the same shape and will hold chalk will result in negligible difference in the amount of draw.
Click to expand...

And that is exactly that the OP was asking. It would be interesting to have a ceramic tip that holds chalk, but I bet the hit will feel like ass.
 
vincentwu817 said:
And that is exactly that the OP was asking. It would be interesting to have a ceramic tip that holds chalk, but I bet the hit will feel like ass.
Click to expand...

And that exact question was answered multiple times on the first page of this thread. :)

You are correct, at least to me, trying to hit a draw shot with a ceramic tip feels bad and the sound sends shivers down my spine. You can get enough chalk on one to hit the draw shot, give it a try.
 
madhatter44 said:
How would you say tip hardness effects draw?
Click to expand...
If everything else is the same in the comparison, and if the tip is holding chalk, tip hardness should make no relevant difference in draw; although the "feel" is different with a harder tip.

If the stroke is the same in the comparison, a harder tip will actually give a little extra speed to the CB. Therefore, less backspin will be lost on the way to the OB, and this will create slightly more draw. So I guess you could say that a hard tip will draw the ball slightly more.

However, a softer tip might be less likely to miscue at large tip offsets, especially if it holds chalk better than the harder tip in the comparison.

For more information, see:

cue tip hardness resource page
cue "hit," "feel," and "playability"
cue tip efficiency

Enjoy,
Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top