Installing Tips by Hand. Let's Share our Methods.

TwoRailDave

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If I had to guess, I'd say that I've installed somewhere around 100 tips by hand. There are a couple videos on youtube that I've looked at. I thought
this thread could be a useful place to share how we like to do it. I'm sure there are some cool tricks and tools that others use that could help myself
and others.

I start off by cutting off the tip with a razor blade and then scraping off some of the remainder until I get close to the ferrule. At that point,
I use a large wood file and take it down to the ferrule being careful to file in a straight line, which definitely requires some care. I prop up the tip
end of the shaft with some newspaper before doing this since it's thinner than the joint end. After filing, I place a razor blade sharp edge down
perpendicular to the surface of the ferule and rotate it, which seems to scrape everything nice and flat. I then check it with the side of my utility knife,
which has a nice flat edge to make sure everything is flat and flush.

Next I tape off the ferrule with some thin blue painters tape, getting as close to the edge as possible while making sure to not go past it.
I use gorilla super glue, which is supposedly less brittle but who knows. I've only had one tip come off. I rub the bottom non-playing side of the tip
on some sand paper and then my wood file to make sure it is flat. I then lick my finger and wipe it clean of any dust and leather. After scoring the ferrule,
I'll scrape over it with my fingernail to rip off any jagged peices that have been lifted up from the scratches. I'm also careful if there is an uncapped ferrule
with a wooden tenon as small pieces of wood can sometimes break off easily when scored. I apply a good dab of glue and rub the tip over it to assure
complete coverage before pressing down. After aligning it, I'll press the shaft tip down firmly into the floor for 30 seconds or so. Right after this is
a good time to wipe off that glue that's oozed out the sides with a paper towel and remove the painter's tape, leaving you with a nice clean glue-free ferrule.
I usually leave the shaft for 15-30 min while I go do something else.

I then use a long tweeten tip trimmer that you can get on seyberts for 2 dollars and trim about half of the tip off so I can get it into my porper mushroom grazer
and cut the excess off. This part is kind of tricky for me. I'm pretty good at it now but its easy to mar the ferrule a little bit when trying to take down the sides
of the tip all the way. I'm always slow and careful because I like my ferrules looking new. I just ordered a large pencil sharpener-like tool off of ebay in hopes
that this process could be done easier. What do you guys out there do to cut off the excess? Lastly I take my finger with a little saliva and rub it around the
outer edge of the tip. I then fold up a dollar bill and wrap it around the tip and burnish; or just use the tip burnishing tool. Sometimes I'll use a Sharpie to
color the outer edge and then burnish again. I never really touch my tips too much after that at all. The only reason they don't last 1-2 years is because
I'm always trying different tips.

The only maintenance I regularly do is rub a piece of 120-150 grip over the top of the tip. I don't do it firmly, just enough to raise up the leather.
I'll do this every couple times I play, but it doesn't seem to take off any tip. I see many using the tip shapers after a miscue, looking like they're trying to start a fire,
removing perfectly good tip.

If anyone has any suggestions, please post them as well as any tools that you find make hand-install easier. Please don't say just get a lathe. I realize how
much easier it is but many of us don't have the funds or the space to invest in one. The whole process can take a while and I'm eager to hear
any suggestions for making it better or quicker.
 
I'm a big believer in the proper pressure to remove all glue air. I took a 12 inch 2x4 and mounted it on my bench wall with a door hinge. Swing it up and the freshly glued tip shaft stands under it perfectly. I add a 5 lb weight to the top and let it dry for 1 hour. Trim as you see fit. I built a lathe from e-bay parts.
 
If I had to guess, I'd say that I've installed somewhere around 100 tips by hand. There are a couple videos on youtube that I've looked at. I thought
this thread could be a useful place to share how we like to do it. I'm sure there are some cool tricks and tools that others use that could help myself
and others.

I start off by cutting off the tip with a razor blade and then scraping off some of the remainder until I get close to the ferrule. At that point,
I use a large wood file and take it down to the ferrule being careful to file in a straight line, which definitely requires some care. I prop up the tip
end of the shaft with some newspaper before doing this since it's thinner than the joint end. After filing, I place a razor blade sharp edge down
perpendicular to the surface of the ferule and rotate it, which seems to scrape everything nice and flat. I then check it with the side of my utility knife,
which has a nice flat edge to make sure everything is flat and flush.

Next I tape off the ferrule with some thin blue painters tape, getting as close to the edge as possible while making sure to not go past it.
I use gorilla super glue, which is supposedly less brittle but who knows. I've only had one tip come off. I rub the bottom non-playing side of the tip
on some sand paper and then my wood file to make sure it is flat. I then lick my finger and wipe it clean of any dust and leather. After scoring the ferrule,
I'll scrape over it with my fingernail to rip off any jagged peices that have been lifted up from the scratches. I'm also careful if there is an uncapped ferrule
with a wooden tenon as small pieces of wood can sometimes break off easily when scored. I apply a good dab of glue and rub the tip over it to assure
complete coverage before pressing down. After aligning it, I'll press the shaft tip down firmly into the floor for 30 seconds or so. Right after this is
a good time to wipe off that glue that's oozed out the sides with a paper towel and remove the painter's tape, leaving you with a nice clean glue-free ferrule.
I usually leave the shaft for 15-30 min while I go do something else.

I then use a long tweeten tip trimmer that you can get on seyberts for 2 dollars and trim about half of the tip off so I can get it into my porper mushroom grazer
and cut the excess off. This part is kind of tricky for me. I'm pretty good at it now but its easy to mar the ferrule a little bit when trying to take down the sides
of the tip all the way. I'm always slow and careful because I like my ferrules looking new. I just ordered a large pencil sharpener-like tool off of ebay in hopes
that this process could be done easier. What do you guys out there do to cut off the excess? Lastly I take my finger with a little saliva and rub it around the
outer edge of the tip. I then fold up a dollar bill and wrap it around the tip and burnish; or just use the tip burnishing tool. Sometimes I'll use a Sharpie to
color the outer edge and then burnish again. I never really touch my tips too much after that at all. The only reason they don't last 1-2 years is because
I'm always trying different tips.

The only maintenance I regularly do is rub a piece of 120-150 grip over the top of the tip. I don't do it firmly, just enough to raise up the leather.
I'll do this every couple times I play, but it doesn't seem to take off any tip. I see many using the tip shapers after a miscue, looking like they're trying to start a fire,
removing perfectly good tip.

If anyone has any suggestions, please post them as well as any tools that you find make hand-install easier. Please don't say just get a lathe. I realize how
much easier it is but many of us don't have the funds or the space to invest in one. The whole process can take a while and I'm eager to hear
any suggestions for making it better or quicker.

Thanks for this. He giant pencil sharpener can be good, but takes practice - very easy to shave the ferrule or cone the tip.

I still dont have a reliable way of flattening the ferrule.
 
I just cut the tip off, sand off the excess leather (have a old tip top sander..not sure I like it, but it has worked for me for the last 15-20 years), rough up the back up the tip, add glue to both, press against old cutting board getting the tip as close to centered as I can. Tape off the ferrule, and use some 200 grit sandpaper to quickly take down the excess leather.

After I've gotten it close, I use a pvc style tip shaper and use a mushroom grazer to finish up.

Takes me about 1/2 hour or so to do a tip, but I'm happier with the result than letting someone else do it. Just not very many places around to get one installed that I trust anymore. Know two guys that I trust around here, and both guys have day jobs, and are 45 minutes or more away.
 
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Very easy

1. Take off old tip.
2. Take exacto blade and remove leftover tip and glue.
3. Take exacto blade and put light pressure on the top of the ferrule to make certain ferrule is flat.
4. Sand new tips bottom to make sure its flat and will accept the glue.
5. Glue tip to ferrule. Tapping lightly on tip to make sure all air is removed from space between the tip and ferrule.
6. Allow tip to dry. (depends on what your using as an adhesive as to how long you let it dry).
7. I use an exacto blade to trim the excess tip by placing a piece of scotch tap around the ferrule so I can trim without leaving marks on the side of the ferrule.
The real key is not to put to much pressure on the tip as you trim. If done right you will have no problems. I use Elk Master tips and as long as you don't separate the tip fibers with to much pressure they hold up just fine.

I have done my own tips for years and this works quite well.

Don
 
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It has been a long time since I replaced a tip. I would make some small cuts with the tip of a utility blade to allow the glue to go into the tip a bit. I never had one come off.

I would trip the sides with a new utility blade until it is round and smooth. Then blacken the sides with a sharpie. Last step was to polish the edges with a dollar bill to make it shine.
 
Doing your own tip by hand

I know there are a few people who can do there own tip and do a good job.

I don't want to cast a black cloud on the do it yourselfers guys but I have repaired or have tried to repair some of these shafts that you DIY guys have done your own tips on..

Straight up, if any of you guys cut into or start sanding on the ferrule, stop there and take the shaft to someone who has a lathe

Once you get out of center the only way to get center again is on a lathe.
If you sand into the ferrule to fix your screw up on the tip, you also start sanding the shaft because now the ferrule is not flush with the shaft.
So they sand on the shaft too. and everything is out of round..


Not the best picture sorry but notice the ferrule thickness is thinner on the top then the bottom.


Owning your own cue lathe seems to be the most bullet proof solution, besides there is more maintenance on a cue then just the tip.
 
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Mike, that ferrule and shaft are Ug-lee with all the imbedded chalk.
I'm hoping you cleaned that shaft up to look like a new one again.

Just kidding, I know what a meticulous guy you are.

One time, while playing in a local bar tournament, my Tip flew off
on the break. I only had the one shaft with me so I finished that game
with a bar cue ... (Ugh!) Somehow, I won that game and advanced.
I found the Tip on the floor and one of the guys said he had glue in
his truck. I prepped the shaft and tip while he fetched the glue.
To my amazement, he returned with a jug of Elmer's Carpenter Glue.
With no time to spare, I applied the Elmer's and Tip then cinched it
down with several large rubber bands supplied by the Bar Keep.
It was at least an hour before my next match for the Hot Seat and
I decided to take a chance on the jury-rigged tip job. I groomed the
tip (without it falling off) and proceeded to take down the Hot Seat
position soon to follow. That darn tip job held up so well that I left
it like that until the tip required replacement. I would not hesitate
to make the same repair again. Good Old Elmer's worked for me.
 
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