Chalk MAKERS, HEADS-UP!

JoeyA said:
[...]
The leather pouches are NICE, I agree, but some of them will have the chalk occasionally bounce out. Also, the pouch gets dirty with repeated use.
[...]
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That's right, Joey. The poolrooms I frequent have pool chairs with arm rests (with scalloping along the outside edge of the arm rest, to rest your cue). Sometimes, when sitting in these chairs, the leather pouch would "catch" on the inside edge of the arm rest, bend away from my body, and then release like a catapult -- flinging the chalk on the floor to one side of me.

With the rare earth magnet, the chalk cube may catch, but it rocks away from the magnet and then snaps back. Never had a problem with something "removing" the cube from the magnet -- it takes a hand with a grip on two sides of the cube (or "lip" of the metal disc underneath) to remove it from the magnet.

-Sean
 
then use a piece of double sided foam tape.
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The little square of metal on the back of the magnetic chalk holders are attached with double tape. I had one fall off once. I replaced the strip of tape, never to fall off again.

Pretty strong stuff.

There is always Velcro.
 
bwally said:
I remove the paper from the bottom of the chalk with a razor blade. Then I glue a washer to the bottom of the chalk with epoxy. I make sure to cover the entire bottom of the exposed chalk with the epoxy as it helps to somewhat seal the bottom. I have never had an issue with the washer even coming close to falling off or getting blue chalk on my hands from the bottom of the chalk.

Good shooting
Brian
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Brian,
So you remove all of the paper from the bottom of the chalk and then glue the washer directly to the chalk, is that correct? Thanks, JoeyA.

sfleinen said:
That's right, Joey. The poolrooms I frequent have pool chairs with arm rests (with scalloping along the outside edge of the arm rest, to rest your cue). Sometimes, when sitting in these chairs, the leather pouch would "catch" on the inside edge of the arm rest, bend away from my body, and then release like a catapult -- flinging the chalk on the floor to one side of me.

With the rare earth magnet, the chalk cube may catch, but it rocks away from the magnet and then snaps back. Never had a problem with something "removing" the cube from the magnet -- it takes a hand with a grip on two sides of the cube (or "lip" of the metal disc underneath) to remove it from the magnet.

-Sean
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I'm telling you, (well I don't have to tell you) once you get in the habit of using the chalk (without a chalk holder device around the chalk) with a magnetic holder, it's hard to believe there is anything better than that.

I'm going to try removing the paper altogether and see how that works. I might even go to the trouble of removing the paper, applying a coat of epoxy, then after it dries, go back with another coat of epoxy with the metal washer. For those interested, I have found the best washer to be Hillman Fender Washers, 5/32 x 7/8 available at Lowe's. The 3/16 x 1" is too large for the Predator chalk and besides I don't need any additional holding power.

Chalk manufacturers, do you see a marketing opportunity here. :D

JoeyA
 
JoeyA said:
Brian,
So you remove all of the paper from the bottom of the chalk and then glue the washer directly to the chalk, is that correct? Thanks, JoeyA.



Yes, that is correct. Only a very thin coat is needed...
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BTW, if any of you have this EXACT belt clip, I would be interested in purchasing it from you.

picture.php


JoeyA[/QUOTE]

P.S. The washer above is NOT the Hillman fender washers, btw. I cut a piece of metal and shaped the metal on a grinder, until I realized I didn't want to work that hard. :-)
 
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bwally said:
JoeyA said:
Brian,
So you remove all of the paper from the bottom of the chalk and then glue the washer directly to the chalk, is that correct? Thanks, JoeyA.



Yes, that is correct. Only a very thin coat is needed...
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Ok, one more question. Do you coat the chalk only? Or do you coat both the chalk and the metal washer?

Thanks,
JoeyA
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DallasHopps said:
Lol... Just lol.

For use with a magnetic chalk holder?
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First, I like the crimping a cap idea, very creative and it has possibilities :thumbup:

Thanks for the learning opportunity. I would guess that your nickel at 25% nickel would be magnetic (ferro magnetic, sticks to magnets). I also found it curious that most of your coins are mostly copper given the price of copper these days.

http://www.usmint.gov/about_the_mint/?action=coin_specifications

Of course the composition of coins has changed (:grin-square:) over the years so you might get to use an older favorite lucky coin as magnetic material. See below if this is not the case.

Canadian coins are indeed magnetic these days as they are mostly stamped (and plated) steel. We have used nickel extensively over the years so many older coins are also magnetic.

http://www.bcscta.ca/resources/hebden/chem/Coin Compositions.pdf

Because I am such a nice fellow, if anyone has old (pre 1965) dimes and quarters that won't work please pm me for a shipping address and I will exchange them for nice new Canadian coins that will work well for this application (only if you have a lot of them please).

Dave
 
yankeepapa said:
Joey A,

I saw a clever solution to this problem last Spring at Lincoln City, Oregon.

We were playing a team of Yakamas from Yakima,WA. I spied a cube of chalk on their table with something attached to the bottom.

Closer inspection revealed it to be a bottle cap crimped to the bottom of the cube. I foolishly failed to ask how the hack was accomplished. Repeated use had worn any identifying marks from the cap, and I believe size matters here.

My efforts with super glue gel and a pair of channel-locks both failed.

Our next wine buying trip to the Yakima Valley will merit a side trip to investigate.

I believe you're onto something here, Joey.

Pete
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This is a very clever idea! I like it. I can see that a typical bottle cap can be crimped around the bottom of a cube of chalk, with no glue.

The trick is "how to do the crimping without crushing the bottom of the cube, nor having the serrated metal edge of the bottle cap 'cut into' the chalk." ChannelLock pliers wouldn't do, because even with a careful squeeze, it's too easy once the metal curls inwards to go too far.

I'm thinking a small hand vise, something like this:

m-4BYFaIPxQsOVEBYzH5G2g.jpg

I have one of these. Although even just a standard bench or portable vise would do as well. The key is the incremental screw action to close the jaws -- rather than uncontrolled plier hand pressure -- which allows you to crimp firmly into the chalk without crushing or cutting it.

I'm going to have to try this.
-Sean
 
hang-the-9 said:
Few things with this, first it would likely double the cost of the chalk, the wrapper will likely wear out fast and the washer will fall out, and not that many use magnetic chalk holders in comparison to those that don't which means the market to sell this to will be very small for the developement and ironing out issues and putting another product in the pipeline.
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Good points. I'm not sure about that doubling the cost of the chalk.

Master chalk is CHEAP as compared to Predator chalk or even Blue Diamond Chalk.

While I love the Predator chalk and the shape, I would switch to whichever chalk maker presents this idea and doubt that Predator chalk or Blue Diamond would double in cost. The Fender Washers that I use cost $.13 each RETAIL.

The bottom line is that any chalk maker who develops this product will corner the market on chalk for magnetic chalk holders because the housings that most magnetic chalk holders have are bulky and undesirable.

I just sent Predator a link to this thread. Who knows, I might get a chalk sponsor if this flies. :D

Thanks,
JoeyA
 
sfleinen said:
yankeepapa said:
Joey A,

I saw a clever solution to this problem last Spring at Lincoln City, Oregon.

We were playing a team of Yakamas from Yakima,WA. I spied a cube of chalk on their table with something attached to the bottom.

Closer inspection revealed it to be a bottle cap crimped to the bottom of the cube. I foolishly failed to ask how the hack was accomplished. Repeated use had worn any identifying marks from the cap, and I believe size matters here.

My efforts with super glue gel and a pair of channel-locks both failed.

Our next wine buying trip to the Yakima Valley will merit a side trip to investigate.

I believe you're onto something here, Joey.

Pete
Click to expand...

This is a very clever idea! I like it. I can see that a typical bottle cap can be crimped around the bottom of a cube of chalk, with no glue.

The trick is "how to do the crimping without crushing the bottom of the cube, nor having the serrated metal edge of the bottle cap 'cut into' the chalk." ChannelLock pliers wouldn't do, because even with a careful squeeze, it's too easy once the metal curls inwards to go too far.

I'm thinking a small hand vise, something like this:

m-4BYFaIPxQsOVEBYzH5G2g.jpg

I have one of these. Although even just a standard bench or portable vise would do as well. The key is the incremental screw action to close the jaws -- rather than uncontrolled plier hand pressure -- which allows you to crimp firmly into the chalk without crushing or cutting it.

I'm going to have to try this.
-Sean
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JoeyA:

Just an update on this -- I think I figured out how the guy (described in yankeepapa's post) did it.

I was lucky in that one of my tinner's hammers -- which has a square face -- is exactly the same size as a cube of chalk. I found that after the edges of the bottle cap are teased open (e.g. with needle-nose pliers, at where the corners of the square would be), you place it on the face of the tinner's hammer (like you were "capping" the face), and can use another small hammer to gently tap it in place to shape it. Then, place it on the bottom of the chalk cube, and using either a vise or channel-lock pliers, gently squeeze the sides to crimp it in place.

Done! Takes all of 2 or 3 minutes to do. It's actually a good mechanical connection, and I've not been able to pry it off with my fingers. And the bottle cap sticks well to the rare-earth magnet in my belt clip.

The trick is to find a square piece of metal that is exactly the same dimensions (sides-wise) as a cube of chalk, that you can quickly and easily tap the bottle cap onto to shape it. The face of the above-mentioned tinner's hammer worked for me, but I'm sure a sawed-off piece of a wrought-iron fence or other square stock that is the same size as the sides of a cube of chalk would do just as well.

This is even easier (and quicker!) than trying to glue a washer, electrical box knockout, or other bit of metal onto the bottom of a cube of chalk.

Thanks to yankeepapa for the idea!
-Sean
 
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What about placing a small piece of metal/magnet in the mold during the pour? It could be shaped with a small lip to keep it firmly in the chalk despite the constant pull on it.

Kind of like an anchor bolt stuck into fresh concrete. It grabs the bolt and hardens, keeping the bolt firmly attached.

Best,
Mike
 
Mikjary said:
What about placing a small piece of metal/magnet in the mold during the pour? It could be shaped with a small lip to keep it firmly in the chalk despite the constant pull on it.

Kind of like an anchor bolt stuck into fresh concrete. It grabs the bolt and hardens, keeping the bolt firmly attached.

Best,
Mike
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Did you read the post directly In front of yours? :confused::confused:
 
1. grab a beer
2. drink it
3. grab the cap of the bottle
4. put it on the predator chalk
5. enjoy

:)
 
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