Letter designation rating systems are too subjective. A+,A, B,C+ etc. Are you a Master, Advanced, Intermediate, Novice, or Beginner? Be honest!
Actually HONEST is the catchword.
I've met too many A players that were intermediate at best.
Sure thing boss. Honestly, I'm a C player at best. I don't know what that translates to, in your designations. Honestly, I don't think it matters, because most people don't understand what a C player is. Honestly, I don't think they know what any letter grade player is, unless you reference something they DO understand.
If I had to guess, this is the way I would break it down:
Beginner = D player = APA SL3 or lower
Novice = C player = APA SL4/5
Intermediate = B player = APA SL6/7
Advanced = A player = APA SL8/9
Master = Pro = APA... oh wait
So, even if I tried to break it down, I still don't agree with it. I'm an APA SL6, but what is an APA SL6? I've beaten SL8's. So does that make me an A player or an Advanced player? Is it getting confusing yet? :boring2:
Sure thing boss. Honestly, I'm a C player at best. I don't know what that translates to, in your designations. Honestly, I don't think it matters, because most people don't understand what a C player is. Honestly, I don't think they know what any letter grade player is, unless you reference something they DO understand.
If I had to guess, this is the way I would break it down:
Beginner = D player = APA SL3 or lower
Novice = C player = APA SL4/5
Intermediate = B player = APA SL6/7
Advanced = A player = APA SL8/9
Master = Pro = APA... oh wait
So, even if I tried to break it down, I still don't agree with it. I'm an APA SL6, but what is an APA SL6? I've beaten SL8's. So does that make me an A player or an Advanced player? Is it getting confusing yet? :boring2:
Dave, you are absolutely right. I understand your point. I don't and won't play APA for various reasons. However I have been told by APA players that I'd be an APA SL7. I still call myself a C player or intermediate. I guess it comes down to cash on the line when playing sets then. Just trying to find some sort of rating system without the woofing. One guy rated himself a Master. I guess he plays in an open format against pros without handicap. See what I mean?
APA ratings mean nothing. Literally, zero. Score yourself at Hopkins's Cue Skill and your rating speaks volumes for your true ability.
The one guy that choose Master, was me. I chose Master to prove a point. People lie.
I agree.
Letter designation rating systems are too subjective. A+,A, B,C+ etc. Are you a Master, Advanced, Intermediate, Novice, or Beginner? Be honest!
The one guy that choose Master, was me. I chose Master to prove a point. People lie.
I agree.
To add, I last did the Hopkins Q Skill Challenge two years ago on an 8ft Brunswick with standard pockets, and scored under "Developing Pro" according to this link from Dr. Dave: http://billiards.colostate.edu/PBReview/HopkinsQSkill.htm
You bring up a good point -- I've always thought that the Q Skill should be done on a 9'er with no more than 4.5" pockets, since that's really the standard in 9' big event play. Otherwise, it would be like a player doing the PGA Skill Challenge at their local pitch and putt.
There's such a HUUUUUGE difference in difficulty from a 9'er with 4.5" pockets and an 8'er, which is your typical home table (that said, a GC 8'er isn't your typical home table -- it's harder -- so I'm not singling out your ability or score). An 8'er with standard 5" pockets is probably the easiest table to play on, followed closely by a Valley 7" without shimmed pockets.
Meaning, there are some tables where a good player should literally never miss and some tables where that same player can't take anything for granted. That's why there should be a baseline table to do these rating assessments.
My humble opinion, the order of difficulty is:
EASIEST
Home table, 8', 5" pockets (less congestion than the valley and super easy pocketing)
Valley Bar box, standard pocket cut
Gandy (or similar) 9', standard pocket cut
Diamond 7'er, Pro-cut pockets
Brunswick Gold Crown 9'er, 4.5" (This should be PAR for rating assessments)
Diamond 9'er, 4.5 Pro-cut
Diamond 10'er, 4.5 Pro-cut
Chinese 9'er 8-ball table, Snooker-cut pockets
5x10 Snooker table
6x12 Snooker table
HARDEST
There are a bunch of in-betweeners, but that's the general gist. I think Dr. Dave tried to create an equipment factor, which is admirable, but the calculations are conjecture instead of assessing people long-term using something like Q skills on different equipment and using stats to generate the difficulty factor.
It would be nice to figure a "slope" rating for tables, like golfers have for golf courses... one that actually works and makes sense.
Dave