Wood dimensions - minimums?

ddadams

ddadams

Absolutely love this cue.
Silver Member
I have an opportunity to buy some rather rare wood that I happen to absolutely love, and plan to buy a good bit to have several cues made from when I see fit and it's completely dry and stabilized.

What are the minimum sizes I should ask for for specific parts of a cue?

1. Forearm alone

2. Points - 6 points or 4

3. Buttsleeve

4. Box inlays for a forearm


Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
I personally like to have mine to be at least 1/4 inch thicker than the cue is at its finished state. Buying wood untouched though makes it tough to say though because if it is twisted or warped just a little than your margin for error is gone. I hope this helps
 
eddie0776 said:
I personally like to have mine to be at least 1/4 inch thicker than the cue is at its finished state. Buying wood untouched though makes it tough to say though because if it is twisted or warped just a little than your margin for error is gone. I hope this helps
Click to expand...

Due to not really knowing how much goes to waste and how points are made from maker to maker, I still cannot estimate how big a piece would be adequate for points.

Even with knowing "maker X makes 9" points" - so I'm not sure how long a piece to get for points. I can get enough for a 4 pointer and a 6.


I'll try to buy enough for 3 buttsleeves, a box forearm, 4 points, 6 points, a forearm, and 2 small pieces for a segmented handle.
 
Aloha,

Here are some basic DIMs that I look for in any woods I use for cue building. As long as you are not going full splice, these should work.

Forearms, 1 1/4" square by at least 18"
Points short splice, 1" square by 12" should make 2 points
Butt sleeve, 1 1/4 square by at least 6"
Box inlays, pretty much anything you want, sometimes the drop from the forearm peices can be used if it is purchased in 1 1/2" square and ripped down to 1 1/4".

Good luck with your wood purchase.

Aloha
 
Albatross Cues said:
Aloha,

Here are some basic DIMs that I look for in any woods I use for cue building. As long as you are not going full splice, these should work.

Forearms, 1 1/4" square by at least 18"
Points short splice, 1" square by 12" should make 2 points
Butt sleeve, 1 1/4 square by at least 6"
Box inlays, pretty much anything you want, sometimes the drop from the forearm peices can be used if it is purchased in 1 1/2" square and ripped down to 1 1/4".

Good luck with your wood purchase.

Aloha
Click to expand...
18" long ?
Uncored forearms 13", 3.5" for the buttsleeve. Gotta have 1.300 at least .
1.375 prefered.
CORED forearms only need to 11.5" yay long . Joint collar will grab the coring dowel if you have it at .650-.750 in diameter.
Matching buttsleeve is the one that needs them bigger. Unless you use the point stock as matching sleeve too. Like SW.
15" long pieces are doable as forearm and sleeve if you core it .
 
Glad you have a different opinion, this is just what I look for when I am purchasing wood, to each their own, always better to have more then not enough, and my standard cues are not 58" long, so this is what works best for me. Hence the Albatross Cues, for the long wing span.

Aloha
 
JoeyInCali said:
18" long ?
Uncored forearms 13", 3.5" for the buttsleeve. Gotta have 1.300 at least .
1.375 prefered.
CORED forearms only need to 11.5" yay long . Joint collar will grab the coring dowel if you have it at .650-.750 in diameter.
Matching buttsleeve is the one that needs them bigger. Unless you use the point stock as matching sleeve too. Like SW.
15" long pieces are doable as forearm and sleeve if you core it .
Click to expand...

Any recommendation on size for 6 points / 4 points? Assuming the cue has a wrap, so only for points, not handle.
 
Something to keep in mind is that most exotic woods are prone to some problems. So it's always a good idea to get bigger sizes than you thought you'd need, and even get 2 sets if you can. Just in case something goes wrong.

Also, it's quite common to choose to make cuts based on the figure of the wood, not just it's external dimensions. This will make the best looking cue, but may use a lot bigger pieces.


Royce
 
Exactly what Royce said, we cut wood for yield, or for beauty/usability.

More than enough is better than just barely enough. Especially if it is some fragile burl you are looking to go after.
 
This stuff is pretty strong for a burl and has very little if any checking or cracks.

I've only ever gotten oversized pieces but have no clue how long/think to ask for for points and boxes.

If someone can give me a rough idea for points/boxes I'd really appreciate it so I can ask him to find what he has in the sizes I need or cut it and get it stabilized.

A list of what I'm going to want the pieces for,

3 buttsleeves

1 set of boxes for a forearm/buttsleeve -
2 big boxes - 2 small for the forearm

1 set for 6 points in a forearm

1 set for 4 points in a forearm

1 solid forearm



The buttsleeves and forearm I know what I need, but as I said before, I'm not sure how much wood is typically required for points and boxes.

Any help is greatly appreciated..
 
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