why not more than one cue ?

jackpot

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Years ago when I was young and playing at the Cotton Bowling Palace
I wanted the best cue available . I had a Rambow like the one they had
in the hustler, then Balabushka then three or four more, then a Gina,
then Szamboti, six or eight of them. (I changed all the time). But the thing
they all had in common, steel joint ivory ferrule. I played almost every shot
with a little outside. Not trying to spin it kind of like TOI . I would try to
not use inside if at all possible because the cue ball deflected so much
that I was not confident. When I lined up with a little outside I felt like
I was aimed right at the center and knew I would make the ball. Sometimes
I would just cinch the shot and take a harder shot on the next shot because
I felt I would make it, even if it called for inside. This was also in the day
of two foul so I could roll out if need be. Back then almost everyone ducked
inside. So after play all those years, and aiming that way what I think is aimed
right at the center is really over cut and I was deflecting it with a TOO.
Anyway, I was at Rusty,s in Dallas and Buddy was there and had a Muecci
and was showing me how easy it was to shoot inside. Wow it was much
much easier. So I got one and it was, but outside I would aim full and
throw it in. If I started free stroking with this cue it was great, but I never
felt like I could just bear down and cinch the ball. I guess because what
looks right to me is really over cut from all those years of playing that way.
So I'm thinking why not use more than one cue. Inside is the nuts with an
LD shaft, so use it for that or extreme draw or whatever. I know I should
just learn to where to aim for whatever cue, and that's pretty
much what I've done. But it still looks full with outside. With a non LD shaft
I can aim at what looks perfect to me with TOO. If a certain cue makes
some thing easier why not use it (break cues jump cues ) why not inside
cues,draw cues whatever. The only draw back I see is you really look
dumb if you change cues and miss. I have a few different cues so I'm going
to go and try this.
jack
 
Absolutely

Years ago when I was young and playing at the Cotton Bowling Palace
I wanted the best cue available . I had a Rambow like the one they had
in the hustler, then Balabushka then three or four more, then a Gina,
then Szamboti, six or eight of them. (I changed all the time). But the thing
they all had in common, steel joint ivory ferrule. I played almost every shot
with a little outside. Not trying to spin it kind of like TOI . I would try to
not use inside if at all possible because the cue ball deflected so much
that I was not confident. When I lined up with a little outside I felt like
I was aimed right at the center and knew I would make the ball. Sometimes
I would just cinch the shot and take a harder shot on the next shot because
I felt I would make it, even if it called for inside. This was also in the day
of two foul so I could roll out if need be. Back then almost everyone ducked
inside. So after play all those years, and aiming that way what I think is aimed
right at the center is really over cut and I was deflecting it with a TOO.
Anyway, I was at Rusty,s in Dallas and Buddy was there and had a Muecci
and was showing me how easy it was to shoot inside. Wow it was much
much easier. So I got one and it was, but outside I would aim full and
throw it in. If I started free stroking with this cue it was great, but I never
felt like I could just bear down and cinch the ball. I guess because what
looks right to me is really over cut from all those years of playing that way.
So I'm thinking why not use more than one cue. Inside is the nuts with an
LD shaft, so use it for that or extreme draw or whatever. I know I should
just learn to where to aim for whatever cue, and that's pretty
much what I've done. But it still looks full with outside. With a non LD shaft
I can aim at what looks perfect to me with TOO. If a certain cue makes
some thing easier why not use it (break cues jump cues ) why not inside
cues,draw cues whatever. The only draw back I see is you really look
dumb if you change cues and miss. I have a few different cues so I'm going
to go and try this.
jack

A lot of stuff in that post Jack and I know exactly how you play. A lot of accomplished players aim full or 3/4 ball and use the squirt and their stroke to feel the balls in with an Ivory ferrule cue. When you start going LD shaft you start messing that up, I think that works best with a heavy shaft, just my own opinion. Its all in how you grow up playing.. I can tell you are old school.
 
Years ago when I was young and playing at the Cotton Bowling Palace
I wanted the best cue available . I had a Rambow like the one they had
in the hustler, then Balabushka then three or four more, then a Gina,
then Szamboti, six or eight of them. (I changed all the time). But the thing
they all had in common, steel joint ivory ferrule. I played almost every shot
with a little outside. Not trying to spin it kind of like TOI . I would try to
not use inside if at all possible because the cue ball deflected so much
that I was not confident. When I lined up with a little outside I felt like
I was aimed right at the center and knew I would make the ball. Sometimes
I would just cinch the shot and take a harder shot on the next shot because
I felt I would make it, even if it called for inside. This was also in the day
of two foul so I could roll out if need be. Back then almost everyone ducked
inside. So after play all those years, and aiming that way what I think is aimed
right at the center is really over cut and I was deflecting it with a TOO.
Anyway, I was at Rusty,s in Dallas and Buddy was there and had a Muecci
and was showing me how easy it was to shoot inside. Wow it was much
much easier. So I got one and it was, but outside I would aim full and
throw it in. If I started free stroking with this cue it was great, but I never
felt like I could just bear down and cinch the ball. I guess because what
looks right to me is really over cut from all those years of playing that way.
So I'm thinking why not use more than one cue. Inside is the nuts with an
LD shaft, so use it for that or extreme draw or whatever. I know I should
just learn to where to aim for whatever cue, and that's pretty
much what I've done. But it still looks full with outside. With a non LD shaft
I can aim at what looks perfect to me with TOO. If a certain cue makes
some thing easier why not use it (break cues jump cues ) why not inside
cues,draw cues whatever. The only draw back I see is you really look
dumb if you change cues and miss. I have a few different cues so I'm going
to go and try this.
jack
Alex Pagulayan has been using 2 cues just like you said the last few times i saw him play and again last night in his match vs Frost.

He has two cues one looks like a OB with a low deflection shaft and the other is a SW type cue with a standard shaft.

He seems to use different cues for some shots must work great for him he is a champion lol
 
Years ago when I was young and playing at the Cotton Bowling Palace
I wanted the best cue available . I had a Rambow like the one they had
in the hustler, then Balabushka then three or four more, then a Gina,
then Szamboti, six or eight of them. (I changed all the time). But the thing
they all had in common, steel joint ivory ferrule. I played almost every shot
with a little outside. Not trying to spin it kind of like TOI . I would try to
not use inside if at all possible because the cue ball deflected so much
that I was not confident. When I lined up with a little outside I felt like
I was aimed right at the center and knew I would make the ball. Sometimes
I would just cinch the shot and take a harder shot on the next shot because
I felt I would make it, even if it called for inside. This was also in the day
of two foul so I could roll out if need be. Back then almost everyone ducked
inside. So after play all those years, and aiming that way what I think is aimed
right at the center is really over cut and I was deflecting it with a TOO.
Anyway, I was at Rusty,s in Dallas and Buddy was there and had a Muecci
and was showing me how easy it was to shoot inside. Wow it was much
much easier. So I got one and it was, but outside I would aim full and
throw it in. If I started free stroking with this cue it was great, but I never
felt like I could just bear down and cinch the ball. I guess because what
looks right to me is really over cut from all those years of playing that way.
So I'm thinking why not use more than one cue
. Inside is the nuts with an
LD shaft, so use it for that or extreme draw or whatever. I know I should
just learn to where to aim for whatever cue, and that's pretty
much what I've done. But it still looks full with outside. With a non LD shaft
I can aim at what looks perfect to me with TOO. If a certain cue makes
some thing easier why not use it (break cues jump cues ) why not inside
cues,draw cues whatever. The only draw back I see is you really look
dumb if you change cues and miss. I have a few different cues so I'm going
to go and try this.
jack


That's not unusual, most people that buy Meucci cues feel like they need additional cues, as long as they aren't Meucci's.
 
At the present, I own four cues which I carry and play with.......the cues are all essentially the same.......three (3) cue butts weigh 14.5 ozs and one (1) weighs 14.6 ozs. All the cue have one inch ivory ferrules and flat ivory joints ( two 3/8x10, one 3/8 x11 & one radial pin)......three of the cues have Cortland Linen and one has elephant ear.....it came with the cue.....rather have Cortland.

All of the shafts are the same size and 3 of the cues have Kamui Clear Black (soft) and one cue has original brown Moori tips (medium).....that would be my Prewitt cue.......three (3) of my cues all weigh 18.25-18.3 ozs and my Prewitt weighs 18.8 because the flat faced (no brass) wood shafts weigh 4.2 ounces.

I can switch back and forth any time and never have any adjustment to make with my cues......Scruggs, Owen, Prewitt, Rauezahn.......I adore these cues and people are in line for my cues.....honestly, there are some Azers with standing offers to buy some of my cues at any time....I got buddies breaking my balls to sell them one of my cues. I firmly believe that when you closely match the cues in your collection as to type such as weight, joint, shaft size, tips, etc. it becomes relatively easy to switch cues in the middle of a match.......I've done it and still do it.......instead of changing shafts on the cue I'm playing with, if my game goes unexpectedly cold.....I'll switch cues right in the middle of the match.......it's like being rejuvenated.....a new cue.....new shaft......a fresh, new approach and I always play better after doing that.......now I didn't say I always won because that's not true but I always played better after switching cues......it's so easy when all my cues have basically the same specifications.......and rest assured, this did not occur by accident or mere happenstance........it's taken me years of looking and also having two custom built to these specs.

Matt B.
 

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Interesting, but the last thing I want to be thinking about when running balls is which cue I'm going to have to use for the next shot...
 
Victori....that implies......or so I'm inferring.....that one would have to take out multiple cues and assemble them ready to switch at any given moment......uh,.....that's not how it's done......or not how I do it.

I play with one cue....the one I select from my four cues.....dunno which one it might be.....maybe the one I last played with or the first one I lay eyes upon when I open my case......maybe it's the cue I haven't played with for a couple of sessions........you know it really doesn't matter why or which cue I select to play with when my cues are clones of one another, i.e., cue specs.

So I play with the cue I start with and whenever the urge strikes my fancy, I change cues and I have found when you switch cues, at least with the ones I own, it restarts your motor......you feel reawakened......you focus more....and you wind up playing better......I do with my cues......when I take a different cue out of my cue case, I have to remove the custom protectors and assemble my cue.....I do this standing over the pool table.....in case I were to drop my cue......and it takes a minuet to do this.

I lay down the cue butt and shaft(s) because sometimes I'll take out more than one. I remove the protectors and I get to look at my cue while doing this.....I see my cue come together......it's a nice experience.......my cues are handsome......looking at the cue while I assemble it is probably the only time I really get to appreciate my cue(s). I really don't look at the cue design again after I assemble my cue......I certainly don't look at it while I am playing with the cue and when I am not at the table, the cue is in my hand while I sit or stand.....assembling my cue is when I get to appreciate what beautiful cues I own.

So changing cues creates a pause in the game or match.......the playing tempo gets interrupted and I control the interruption too since I'm the one switching cues. It can become a refreshing pause and it's akin to becoming reinvigorated....like I wrote earlier.....rejuvenated. It's that way for me and I guess you have to trade places with me and play with my cues to better appreciate what I trying to explain. For me, switching cues is like switching pairs of really comfortable shoes......it's a good change. But I don't just change cues for the mere sake of doing that......I prefer playing with the same pool cue that day or night but if and when I want to switch, it is so easy to do that and like I said, I always play better when I switch cues....maybe that's because I do that when my game is struggling......and changing cues is a quick fix for that.

Matt B.
 
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I agree, I enjoy playing with a different cues from time to time and it can really refresh one's game, but I think the OP is talking about using a different cue different shots in the same game, such as inside and outside english.

There is some sense to it, but I feel it will be detrimental to one's game in the long run, or at least it would for me.
 
If you know how you play and how your shaft plays, there is no need to change cues. If you know that you can aim full on a shot but make it with a regular shaft, and play good with it, then that's your combination. If you know you can aim another way with an LD shaft but don't feel comfy with it, don't use it.

I think the big issue with people saying use this shaft, that shaft, do this or that when aiming, aim fuller on this shot with that spin is that it all is moot unless the two people have the same stroke and sees the shot the same way.

I was in a room yesterday and someone that seems to have a new shaft every other week was showing me this new way he had of making balls with using spin to deflect into the right aiming line instead of aiming straight, there is no way I can do what with my stoke and my OB shaft. He said a very good 100 ball runner showed him that was how that guy aimed so he was copying him. Worked for him, but I don't care if the guy ran 300 balls with that method, I would not make 3.

The more I thought about how different people shoot and see the same shot, the more it seems it's impossible to have a player say that a shaft or tip will be good for a player.

It's all suggestions about how a shaft performs not if it's a "good" shaft or a "bad" shaft. Given 10 shafts with different deflection properties and hit feels, all 10 have the potential for being equally good for 10 different players but maybe equally bad for 10 players if they are not used by the right person.

The only "bad" cue or shaft is one that is just constructed badly with cheap feeling wood or loose joints.
 
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...why not use more than one cue.
Because it masks what's actually going on, and you're not learning anything that you can apply to new situations - you're learning shots, not how to shoot. Better to shoot with one cue and learn the differences in the shots themselves.

The likely difference you're seeing between cues is the amount of squirt they produce. Switching cues hides this difference from you.

pj
chgo
 
At the present, I own four cues which I carry and play with.......the cues are all essentially the same.......three (3) cue butts weigh 14.5 ozs and one (1) weighs 14.6 ozs. All the cue have one inch ivory ferrules and flat ivory joints ( two 3/8x10, one 3/8 x11 & one radial pin)......three of the cues have Cortland Linen and one has elephant ear.....it came with the cue.....rather have Cortland.

All of the shafts are the same size and 3 of the cues have Kamui Clear Black (soft) and one cue has original brown Moori tips (medium).....that would be my Prewitt cue.......three (3) of my cues all weigh 18.25-18.3 ozs and my Prewitt weighs 18.8 because the flat faced (no brass) wood shafts weigh 4.2 ounces.

I can switch back and forth any time and never have any adjustment to make with my cues......Scruggs, Owen, Prewitt, Rauezahn.......I adore these cues and people are in line for my cues.....honestly, there are some Azers with standing offers to buy some of my cues at any time....I got buddies breaking my balls to sell them one of my cues. I firmly believe that when you closely match the cues in your collection as to type such as weight, joint, shaft size, tips, etc. it becomes relatively easy to switch cues in the middle of a match.......I've done it and still do it.......instead of changing shafts on the cue I'm playing with, if my game goes unexpectedly cold.....I'll switch cues right in the middle of the match.......it's like being rejuvenated.....a new cue.....new shaft......a fresh, new approach and I always play better after doing that.......now I didn't say I always won because that's not true but I always played better after switching cues......it's so easy when all my cues have basically the same specifications.......and rest assured, this did not occur by accident or mere happenstance........it's taken me years of looking and also having two custom built to these specs.

Matt B.

You have extraordinary taste in cue design - If I had 4 cues that looked like yours, I would have to play them all too.
 
Matt, you are a smart man to own multiple cues with similar specs. Bavafongoul has found his cue recipe and sticks to it. This is a good strategy even if you don't the means to own multiple cues by top tier makers.

On the other side of the coin, I used to buy, trade and sell cues to see how different cues played. The downside to that is that I had to adjust to each new cue. I have become tired of the hassle and having my cash tied up in cues, so I've paired everything down to one cue. My Hagan cue is all I need.

The experience of owning many cues has allowed me to refine what I like and dislike in cues. Although I don't plan on buying and selling much any more, as I'd rather spend the time and energy on playing.

At the end of the day though, I think any true pool player would agree to this; if all I had to play pool with was a broomstick, you bet your ass I'd be on the table hitting balls into pockets.
 
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If you know how you play and how your shaft plays, there is no need to change cues. If you know that you can aim full on a shot but make it with a regular shaft, and play good with it, then that's your combination. If you know you can aim another way with an LD shaft but don't feel comfy with it, don't use it.
.

That's kinda the same way I feel. I have only been playing a few years but I do not notice a difference in deflection with outside vs inside, I do not even understand how that could be possible, the deflection should only make a difference depending on how far from center you hit cue ball, not the side you hit it on. I suppose I am happy for that, last thing I want is more thoughts between my ears when I am trying to pocket balls.
 
I discussed this topic with Jerry Franklin a long time ago

his opinion was that different cues for different shots made sense
but practically speaking it might be too difficult for the player
adjusting back and forth

so he figured to take one cue and adjust,same as always

Now Jackpot,he plays so good it doesn't matter. Jack
and I have been losing money with the nuts for some 55 years

and if he saddles up,I am in for another round,

Perhaps he will tell the story about the draw cue

dean
 
That's kinda the same way I feel. I have only been playing a few years but I do not notice a difference in deflection with outside vs inside, I do not even understand how that could be possible, the deflection should only make a difference depending on how far from center you hit cue ball, not the side you hit it on. I suppose I am happy for that, last thing I want is more thoughts between my ears when I am trying to pocket balls.

If you have a stoke that moves the tip a bit one way or the other, that would cause inside or outside to be hit slight in or out more, causing more/less deflection and spin. That's at least how I would see why someone would pick inside or outside. Or maybe just what they were taught.

For example CJ has his touch of inside, when I met Mike Sigel he was showing my son a shot and he said he aims at this spot on the pocket and hits it with a bit of outside.
 
What I think occurs....and I feel that owning cues so close in specs convinces me this is likely more true than not......is the shaft wood......what tree did the shafts come from.......how old.........upper limbs......lower limbs.....how thick was the limb to begin with 4", 6" 12" 18" maybe 2 ft?....did the wood come from the trunk of the tree?

I am not a cue-maker nor am I a wood craftsman.........I am a pool cue owner that has particular tastes in cues.......I like my shafts to weigh 3.7 to 4.1 ounces........without any brass since the shafts are flat faced.......I like flat ivory joints with big pins.......this is the profile for my cues.

When I play with my cues, and I change cues, or I just change shafts (2 of my cues have 3 shafts and the others have 2 shafts.....all original) and all my cues save one have the same tips.......when I notice a difference, I attribute that to the wood selected for the shaft. The cue-maker doesn't pick the tree or which part of the tree the wood came from, i.e., upper tree limb (thinner) versus lower tree limbs (thicker) or trunk (thickest). The wood would exhibit slightly different tensile and compressive properties & resonance characteristics after being milled into a cue shaft or so I'm presuming

Again, I'm not a cue-maker but I damn well can tell the difference in the feel and play with some of the different shafts I have for my pool cues. Anyway, I think that the shaft wood has a lot to do with the ultimate feel of the cue's hit .......light shafts (<3.5 ozs) will play/feel different than shafts weighing 4 ozs. or more........keep in mind that any brass fitting in your cue shafts contribute nearly a 1/2 ounce weight (approx. 4/10 oz.) so the shaft weight of my cues I'm referring to is sans brass since all the shafts are flat faced wood. In my opinion, the absence of any brass or metal connection at my cues' joints definitely affects the hit and feel of my pool cues.....flat faced wood against flat faced ivory. And since all my cues are alike, I am surmising that it's the wood used for making a cue's shafts that becomes a big factor in why pool cues can differ in hit and feel.

Matt B.
 
Jack,

I seems to work for golf. Just kidding.

Personally I have forced myself to learn a straight stroke and only use English when really necessary.

Works for me.

How have you been? It's been a long time.

Bill S.
 
hello Billie

Jack,

I seems to work for golf. Just kidding.

Personally I have forced myself to learn a straight stroke and only use English when really necessary.

Works for me.

How have you been? It's been a long time.

Bill S.
Good to here from you. Doing okay, raising my grandson keeps me pretty
busy. I know how much you love kids so if we are out your way I will
drop him by for a couple of months. You looked to me like you played mostly
center ball . One advantage is it seems easier to play under different
conditions ,humid, slow cloth, etc, playing center. I've noticed on these
sticky diamond tables where I play, I play a lot more center ball. Take
care buddy , and by the way his name is Jonah and he is a picky eater.
jack
free SJD
 
Again, I'm not a cue-maker but I damn well can tell the difference in the feel and play with some of the different shafts I have for my pool cues. Anyway, I think that the shaft wood has a lot to do with the ultimate feel of the cue's hit .......light shafts (<3.5 ozs) will play/feel different than shafts weighing 4 ozs. or more......
Matt B.[/B]

This does not apply to deflection but I find it interesting nonetheless I would think that the shaft would also have the largest effect on hit but I have experienced the opposite. I have 2 different cues that I can swap shafts with. I have a Predator that fits my Schon and also my Titlist. The Predator has a extremely nice hit/feel on the Titlist and feels kind of dead on the Schon. Then I have 2 D series McDermotts that both feel different with the same shafts. My favorite of the 2 McDermotts is my D19 with a new G-core shaft but that same shaft feels very different on my D11. My thinking is that the D19 feels nicer because its an Ebony forearm and the D11 is not. But that is just the opposite with my other 2 butts. My Schon is Ebony and does not hit well with the Predator compared to my Rosewood Titlist.
 
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