Shaft Wax ( Discussing methods of shaft maintenace )

RADAR

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just got my new can of BCW (butches) today in mail from company. Best and safest wax use! Been around over 100 years! quality assured!
 

Bavafongoul

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I strongly endorse using Craftsman Cues Finishing Wax......it ships direct from Craftsman Cues in Birmingham, England.......shipping makes it a little pricey but it's worth it.........best wax I've ever tried....a few Azers have tried it and wrote telling me I was right........minimum order is 3 cans.....do not order and ship this wax during the summer heat......it will melt during the shipping when exposed to high summer temperatures.......it takes awhile to reach you....figure 8-9 days so the cans will be exposed to high 90's or even 100 degrees temperatures.......I only purchase in a large quantity (15-20 cans) during the Fall & winter months because 2 years ago my large order of this wax was ruined by July temperatures.......do your self a favor and split the order with a buddy.......you'll thank me later on.

Matt B.
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Lighter fluid test

When I did the test the other day with lighter fluid on the shaft to make it slick I wasn't sure if I really put my best efforts into doing some what of a hands on test and give a opinion base on the test I have done in person.

I didn't measure the amount of lighter fluid used but my best guess would be about 3/4 of a ounce .

What I did notice it cleaned the shaft up or some what of a natural wood cleaner.
I would argue with any one that almost everything that is a liquid will raise the grain and make the shaft fell fuzzy.
Lighter fluid is a thin liquid and soaks in like a sponge into the maple shaft.
I spun the shaft for about 10 to 15 minutes and poured on the fluid and friction worrying about bursting into flames .
The first time I put lighter fluid on the shaft the smoothness of the shaft wasn't as smooth as the way it feels this time, so this process may have to be a couple of
times in order to get the desired smoothness.
The wood grain didn't raise the second time around or didn't feel like it did.
Actually it feels pretty good.


Opinion on finished product,
I would shoot with it, It doesn't smell and it is slick.

I do have a couple of concerns , I do not think it seals the shaft and it dissolves wax job that was on there before.

I haven't tried one product or some home DIY made wax job that doesn't improve the slickness of the shaft.

This study or discussing wax's may not give any of us a solid answer if we consider all the different fluid the shafts have been dipped in and the finishes that some cue makers and production cue companies put on there shafts..

Personally I am going to start to carry a cloth that has wax n it and a little buffing cloth with me from now on..
I might even carry some wax paper for wrapping meats.
Believe it or not MM candies are sprayed with carnauba wax.....:idea:
 
Last edited:

victorl

Where'd my stroke go?
Silver Member
So I put renaissance wax on my cue butt and shafts and everything looks amazing and the shafts are clean and smooth, but the places where I applied wax on top of the cue's finish have become noticeably sticky and no longer slide smoothly as before. Could this be due to some kind of reaction with the original finish? Or perhaps I applied too much wax?

It's quite humid here now as well, could that be a factor in dealing with wax products?
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Little update

In another thread (ask the cue maker section ) It came out that Renaissance wax is not a natural wax.
It doesn't use carnauba wax it is a synthetic wax and it has a higher melting point and it doesn't contain toluene.

I was worried that Renaissance wax was natural and it contain the very harmful chemical toluene which it doesn't .

Any way it seems Renaissance wax is one of the best waxes I have tested at this time.........
And it is safe or as safe as any of the other waxes,
 

PickPocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
To clarify....

In another thread (ask the cue maker section ) It came out that Renaissance wax is not a natural wax.
It doesn't use carnauba wax it is a synthetic wax and it has a higher melting point and it doesn't contain toluene.

I was worried that Renaissance wax was natural and it contain the very harmful chemical toluene which it doesn't .

Any way it seems Renaissance wax is one of the best waxes I have tested at this time.........
And it is safe or as safe as any of the other waxes,

Is this the same stuff you are talking about?
 

robertod

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
In another thread (ask the cue maker section ) It came out that Renaissance wax is not a natural wax.
It doesn't use carnauba wax it is a synthetic wax and it has a higher melting point and it doesn't contain toluene.

I was worried that Renaissance wax was natural and it contain the very harmful chemical toluene which it doesn't .

Any way it seems Renaissance wax is one of the best waxes I have tested at this time.........
And it is safe or as safe as any of the other waxes,

So I have also tried Renaissance on some old cheap cues to see what it would be like to play with a shaft treated with this product. And here are my thoughts:

The shaft is extremely smooth and glides easily through my fingers. But almost so smooth that it does not feel like I have a wood shaft in my hands. I'm not sure if I'm just overreacting and not used to such a polished shaft. Would like to know others experience and reaction.

Also, if this product is so durable and never wears off, are we putting layers upon layers of this wax everytime you use it? Do we eventually get a build-up of this wax? Can it ever be removed without sanding? Or does it eventually wear off and a new layer need to be applied?

Inquiring minds want to know:confused:
 

jb1911

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Maybe you put too much on your cue. As far as build up goes, you don't put
more of it on every time you play, it's a one time thing or very infrequent.

If museums use it on rare paintings it ain't gonna hurt your cue.
 
Last edited:

robertod

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Maybe you put too much on your cue. As far as build up goes, you don't put
more of it on every time you play, it's a one time thing or very infrequent.

If museums use it on rare paintings it ain't gonna hurt your cue.

Thanks for your reply. Absolutely, I do not applied with it every use and I feel I put a very small amount on the shaft. The product is amazing, just want to make sure I'm not going to regret long term.
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Renaissance wax

Thanks for your reply. Absolutely, I do not applied with it every use and I feel I put a very small amount on the shaft. The product is amazing, just want to make sure I'm not going to regret long term.


Denatured alcohol will strip the wax off in just a minute or two.
The acids in the sweat from your hands will dissolve the wax over a period of time.

If I am shooting allot ( 5 days a week 12 per day then the wax job is only going to last about a week.


I am using Lighter fluid and renaissance wax on the new shafts that I am making now.

My customers have been very pleased with the smoothness of the shafts .

Renaissance wax is a synthetic wax, I have also been using Mcquiars pure polymer synthetic wax to.

All the paste waxes I have tested helped the shaft making it smooth and glide through your fingers ..
There were no waxes that didn't work, some just work slightly better then others .
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Not really

And if you ever need to hunt down Frankenstein they would make great torches :eek:

Thanks for the info MM!

I tested the lighter fluid out on a old beater shaft , I thought for sure that it would smell like petroleum ,
It doesn't the Lighter fluid evaporates but seals the shaft .
Lighter fluid has allot of paraffin wax in it .


So I tried it on a one of my playing shafts and liked it ,
Now all the new shafts that come out of my shop will have the lighter fluid / synthetic wax.
I also clean a wax the shafts when I do a tip installation so I ask the customers if he wants his shaft to feel like one of my shafts.
So far everyone has said yes and I haven't had one complain .:thumbup:
Which makes me very happy.

To be honest all of my customers have been impressed with the results .
And I have customers coming just to get their shafts cleaned and waxed now .

At our last top gun I set a cue repair booth and was swamped cleaning shafts and doing tips.
I also took in a few future orders for cues, shafts and Pocket chalkers .


This thread has been allot of fun and some really good info has been shared .

I have had some silent help through all of this ,
Cue makers and cue collectors have been PM ing me and giving me advice

So to every who has contributed to this thread I say thank you....
 

victorl

Where'd my stroke go?
Silver Member
Do you use any particular kind of lighter fluid or is it the same stuff you find in any old lighter?

Also, how much do you use? I suppose just a very thin coating?
 
Last edited:

LAlouie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm no expert but can attest the carnauba based cue waxes are the best way to maintain shafts. I apply it perhaps every 15 hours of play. Cue feels like new every time.

To lightly clean the shaft I use a isopropyl alcohol pad which removes chalk dust and hand oils without raising wood grain.

For more intense occasional cleaning I use an Atlas product with silica abrasive, similar to soft scrub. Then burnish, reseal wood , very light sand with 2000 grit to knock down sealer and wax. This is the best way to maintain shafts without chalk staining or loss of diameter.

I think alcohol sucks the wood dry. Hand oils is a matter of taste. It's still an oil and some are loyal to the idea of rubbing oil into a shaft. You just have to keep it clean is all.
 

JoeyA

Efren's Mini-Tourn BACKER
Silver Member
It is we and they that should thank you. You have done a fine service for the billiard community.

If you were in my town, you would be the cue repair guy that I would bring my cue to.

Thanks Mike!

JoeyA

I tested the lighter fluid out on a old beater shaft , I thought for sure that it would smell like petroleum ,
It doesn't the Lighter fluid evaporates but seals the shaft .
Lighter fluid has allot of paraffin wax in it .


So I tried it on a one of my playing shafts and liked it ,
Now all the new shafts that come out of my shop will have the lighter fluid / synthetic wax.
I also clean a wax the shafts when I do a tip installation so I ask the customers if he wants his shaft to feel like one of my shafts.
So far everyone has said yes and I haven't had one complain .:thumbup:
Which makes me very happy.

To be honest all of my customers have been impressed with the results .
And I have customers coming just to get their shafts cleaned and waxed now .

At our last top gun I set a cue repair booth and was swamped cleaning shafts and doing tips.
I also took in a few future orders for cues, shafts and Pocket chalkers .


This thread has been allot of fun and some really good info has been shared .

I have had some silent help through all of this ,
Cue makers and cue collectors have been PM ing me and giving me advice

So to every who has contributed to this thread I say thank you....
 
Top