LD Shaft Maintenance ?

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Every once in awhile I get a pm on the technics I use to do shaft maintenance .

All of my replies are for Solid maple shafts, and I sure wish some experts on laminated shafts and shafts that are resin reinforced would step in and explain there thoughts and technics on what and how they keep there Laminated shafts clean and slippery without voiding the warranty and or possibly damaging the shaft..


I am afraid that some where along the line someone is going to destroy there laminated shaft trying to keep it from being sticky by using the same cleaning and sealing technics used on solid maple shafts.

And personally I would like to be educated on the subject.

I wish Royce was around for this thread RIP.....................
 
Here's OB's instructions:

http://www.obcues.com/pages/OB-Shaft-Cleaning-and-Conditioning.html

I'd sure like to know more about the sealer part. I use the magic eraser with 99% rubbing alcohol to clean, then smooth it with the qwiz and apply wax. I'd love to seal it if I knew a good product to use. Any suggestions?

they say

"You really should re-seal your shaft anytime you clean it. Cleaning not only takes off any dirt and grime, but also the sealed surface that helps to keep your shaft clean and smooth. We recommend lacquer based sanding sealer. Some water based sealers will work as well, but the lacquer based sealer will dry quicker. It's ok to put on 2 or 3 coats as long as you let each coat dry before applying the next one. Once the sealer is built up and dry, just polish the shaft again with the smooth side of the OB Q-wiz until your shaft feels smooth."
 
I don't know the answer to your question, but your thread title makes me wonder: you're asking about laminated shafts, whether they're LD or not, right?

pj
chgo
 
warranty

ShakesSea said:
One example:

http://www.predatorcues.com/customer-service/

Elsewhere I've seen where Predator says it's ok to use 1500 grit paper or above.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link, guess I could of looked that up myself.


Just don't rube the sticker off :eek:

I am surprised that alcohol is allowed to be used .

I don't like using sand paper on shafts , and I would be nervous using sand paper on any customers shaft solid or laminated....
 
No

Patrick Johnson said:
I don't know the answer to your question, but your thread title makes me wonder: you're asking about laminated shafts, whether they're LD or not, right?

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

I just want get some info on maintaining ld shafts like for cleaning and waxing and what works the best and what will void there warranty if the owner/ cue repair doesn't know what he or she is doing.
 
Seal it

pocket said:
Here's OB's instructions:

http://www.obcues.com/pages/OB-Shaft-Cleaning-and-Conditioning.html

I'd sure like to know more about the sealer part. I use the magic eraser with 99% rubbing alcohol to clean, then smooth it with the qwiz and apply wax. I'd love to seal it if I knew a good product to use. Any suggestions?

they say

"You really should re-seal your shaft anytime you clean it. Cleaning not only takes off any dirt and grime, but also the sealed surface that helps to keep your shaft clean and smooth. We recommend lacquer based sanding sealer. Some water based sealers will work as well, but the lacquer based sealer will dry quicker. It's ok to put on 2 or 3 coats as long as you let each coat dry before applying the next one. Once the sealer is built up and dry, just polish the shaft again with the smooth side of the OB Q-wiz until your shaft feels smooth."
Click to expand...

I seal my solid maple shafts with lighter fluid , I wouldn't use lighter fluid on a laminated shaft.

Any carnauba paste car wax or synthetic wax will help seal the shaft.

Renaissance or synthetic pure polymer wax is favorites of mine .
 
- Dont use any solvents - glue should still be OK, but one never knows
- Lightly damp cloth ONCE, quickly dry, seal again is a must
- Depending on the lamination, you'll possible can get 4-10 outward facing grains = coarse feeling, so watch out
- Avoid localized high temperatures (buffing, polishing) and no leather, please.

And same as with any shaft:
- Dont care about yellow tint? Use multiple passes with linseed oil and extended drying periods and some light sanding in between.
- Else use wax mixtures, but beeswax has a way too low melting point, so avoid that
- No problem with very light sanding
- Somehow on my shafts Renaissance will NOT hold forever, and I play with a glove.
So I use R. regularly and have a strong basis with regular waxes.

Cheers.
 
ShakesSea said:
One example:

http://www.predatorcues.com/customer-service/

Elsewhere I've seen where Predator says it's ok to use 1500 grit paper or above.
Click to expand...

In reading this, it says to not use steam to remove dings, and also says "importantly, do not use any water-based cleaner", which would suggest that the method of putting wet paper towel over the ding, and letting it swell up and dry, is not right (since if you can't even use a water based cleaner, how can you leave water to soak in on the shaft?).

So can someone explain what is the "proper" way to remove a ding on a laminated shaft?

Gideon
 
GideonF said:
the method of putting wet paper towel over the ding, and letting it swell up and dry, is not right (since if you can't even use a water based cleaner, how can you leave water to soak in on the shaft?)
Click to expand...

Holy crap noodle, do you WANT to ruin your shaft permanently?
Since when is it acceptable doing that to wood, even to repair dings?

Holy moses.... DONT let water soak in, ever!
 
M.G. said:
Holy crap noodle, do you WANT to ruin your shaft permanently?
Since when is it acceptable doing that to wood, even to repair dings?

Holy moses.... DONT let water soak in, ever!
Click to expand...
A drop or two of water on a ding doesn't hurt anything.

pj
chgo
 
Wax?

I keep hearing Rennaisance Wax mentioned and i have some and tried it on both an OB Classic+ and a Predator 314-3...

I can't ever get it to buff down to a smooth surface, it always feels like there is more friction then without the wax.

Is this just the way it is, and I'm trading smoothiness for dirt protection, or is there some trick to buffing it, applying it or other?

My shafts seem to be getting really dirty really fast lately... (That's what she said.)

b
 
M.G. said:
Holy crap noodle, do you WANT to ruin your shaft permanently?
Since when is it acceptable doing that to wood, even to repair dings?

Holy moses.... DONT let water soak in, ever!
Click to expand...

I can tell you I've not ruined any of my shafts so far. This is the method I'm describing, that I've used since the old RSB days (from the RSB FAQ):

http://www.sfbilliards.com/Misc/faq.html

"If the dent is small, then place a drop of water directly on the dent,
let it soak in, and dry overnight; the water softens the wood, and it
may return to its natural shape by itself. If this doesn't work, then
fold a few layers of paper towel or tissue paper to a size slightly
larger than the dent, place the paper against the shaft, and hold it in
place with a rubber band. Wet the paper, and leave it in place
overnight. The wet paper allows the water to soak in deeper before
evaporating, allowing the wood to return to its natural shape slower
than the first method."

Gideon<-----What method do you suggest?
 
mortuarymike-nv said:
I seal my solid maple shafts with lighter fluid , I wouldn't use lighter fluid on a laminated shaft.
Click to expand...

Can I ask an innocent question? What the heck is in lighter fluid that could act as a sealant? Lighter fluid's job is to be 100% VOCs; every bit of it should evaporate (then combust). A lighter fluid that left residue on your lighter would be a pain.

Thank you kindly.
 
pocket said:
Any suggestions for sealing products would be appreciated!
Click to expand...

I've been using Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax for like 8-9 years. Got a can of it after reading about it on one of the threads here. Been using the same can; still got half left. I apply a coat maybe once every other month.

butchers-clear.jpg
 
Corwyn_8 said:
Can I ask an innocent question? What the heck is in lighter fluid that could act as a sealant?
Click to expand...

You are right, in principle.
However, no substance is 100% pure - the sealing comes from pollution with oily and waxy substances AND certain hydrocarbons (not all are in ISO-form in lighter fluid or even in gas as in petrol, "the fluid") actually do react with Oxygen by polymerizing (which is what makes dried linseed oil durable, but takes much more time).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymerization

Probably a better term is "flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixtures" or "light naphta" which makes more clear that it's a mixture of all sorts of funky stuff (ISOs, cis-, trans- and the 2- or 3- Methyl groups).

Cheers!
 
After each day's practice of c. 10 racks, I burnish my 314/2 with a WORN OUT yellow piece of Q Smooth. It's as near totally non abrasive as is humanly possible, The yellow gets very faintly tinted with a few streaks of blue. I can see no white wood dust at all. My cue is as smooth as say a burnished wooden hand rail in a train station. I've tried all the cue products and such, and I think any coating of anything only degrades the friction-less feel provide by the yellow Q Smooth. The shaft literally sparkles as if it were coated with a clear lacquer, but it's not.

Even a brand new yellow piece takes off a great deal of wood, since the piece is totally covered in white dust. I "wear them out" first by rubbing them on my mechanical bridge shaft.

I've successfully steamed out many dents in my 314/2. I mask off the non affected area with 3M blue painters tape. I wring out a small patch of cotton cloth, quickly place it over the dent, and apply a hot iron for c. 2 - 3 seconds. The grain raises, but 10 seconds or so with my worn out yellow piece, and I'm back downstairs playing with a perfectly smooth shaft. I guess ignorance is bliss, as I've never notice a hint of delamination. :shrug:
 
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Corwyn_8 said:
Can I ask an innocent question? What the heck is in lighter fluid that could act as a sealant? Lighter fluid's job is to be 100% VOCs; every bit of it should evaporate (then combust). A lighter fluid that left residue on your lighter would be a pain.

Thank you kindly.
Click to expand...

He's talked about this before. I think it has something to do w the paraffin content in the lighter fluid. If I'm not mistaken paraffin is used to lower the temperature of the burning fuel.

The paraffin would seal, and the fuel would evaporate. Whallah, you have a sealer.
 
Mikey, I don't do anything different with a Laminated shaft that I wouldn't do for Maple.

Except on a maple, I may use either Ammonia with an ME or Acetone with ME.

Hit it very lightly with 400. Mostly green crap from chalk and oil. Scrub with ME and Alcohol until all the blue is out.

Chris Hightowers Shaft Sealer. Wax and a leather Swatch.

Just don't want to use anything more harsh than alcohol on a Lam Shaft.

Of course, I always tape off the Decals and collar. In many cases, I used to re finish the first 4 inches of a shaft if the original finish was worn and or, worn irregularly. With Water Poly. Takes time but I have never charged anyone for a shaft clean when they want a re tip. Just one of those small services that I do for free.

The other fellow in town won't clean a shaft unless you give him 15 Bucks. When I drop off a shaft at the bar for League, I always say, "Brand new again, eh".

They inspect the new shaft and rub their hands up and down it with a smile. I have heard people talk. That extra 15 minutes that I give always comes back on me.
Plus, I would never allow a re tip to go out of the shop as dirty as it came in. Just a bit of a Pride thing.

I have found with using the Shaft Sealer, it will give a shaft the same shine as the original finish. If you do that with a shaft, and tell people how to maintain one after they use it each time, it is not uncommon for a shaft finish to last for a few months, maybe even longer.
 
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