Can i put a tip on this?
- Thread starter nfuids
- Start date
That's a press-fit uncapped ferrule.
Very common with imports.
No issues installing tips on those.
Very common with imports.
No issues installing tips on those.
Post
I can recommend that you use hand cleaner with pumice to remove the chalk dust from the ferrule or any access CA that gets on the ferrule when chalk dust is there you'll have a blue stain.
Also~> once the ferrule is cleaned it's a good practice to wrap the ferrule in masking tape up to the very edge of the ferrule if your not real familiar with installing tips, the tape will protect the ferrule from large amounts of glue deposit squeezed out.
Remove the tape seconds within the tip being pressed in place.
Enjoy'
Rob.M
I can recommend that you use hand cleaner with pumice to remove the chalk dust from the ferrule or any access CA that gets on the ferrule when chalk dust is there you'll have a blue stain.
Also~> once the ferrule is cleaned it's a good practice to wrap the ferrule in masking tape up to the very edge of the ferrule if your not real familiar with installing tips, the tape will protect the ferrule from large amounts of glue deposit squeezed out.
Remove the tape seconds within the tip being pressed in place.
Enjoy'
Rob.M
Best trick ever for cleaning up a ferrule.
Drop by a hobby store and buy a small plastic squeeze bottle with screw on cap. A couple of bucks tops.
While you're out, stop at the grocery store and buy a bottle of Soft Scrub, preferably without bleach. One bottle will be a lifetime supply.
Fill the small bottle with Soft Scrub and keep it on your work bench.
For those of you with lathes, chuck the shaft up as per usual and cut off the old tip with a knife.
Using the small bottle of Soft Scrub squeeze out one drop onto the ferrule, keeping it off the wood of the shaft, and spread it around the dirty ferrule with your finger. Turn on the lathe and with a folded paper towel and medium pressure, draw the towel toward the end where the tip was. Once is usually enough, but if the chalk stain is severe you made need to do it twice.
With a drop of spit (or water) rinse off the ferrule and wipe dry with a clean paper towel and it will be shining like a diamond in a goats ass.
Now, you can face off a new surface on the end of the ferrule and install your new tip. :smile:
Drop by a hobby store and buy a small plastic squeeze bottle with screw on cap. A couple of bucks tops.
While you're out, stop at the grocery store and buy a bottle of Soft Scrub, preferably without bleach. One bottle will be a lifetime supply.
Fill the small bottle with Soft Scrub and keep it on your work bench.
For those of you with lathes, chuck the shaft up as per usual and cut off the old tip with a knife.
Using the small bottle of Soft Scrub squeeze out one drop onto the ferrule, keeping it off the wood of the shaft, and spread it around the dirty ferrule with your finger. Turn on the lathe and with a folded paper towel and medium pressure, draw the towel toward the end where the tip was. Once is usually enough, but if the chalk stain is severe you made need to do it twice.
With a drop of spit (or water) rinse off the ferrule and wipe dry with a clean paper towel and it will be shining like a diamond in a goats ass.
Now, you can face off a new surface on the end of the ferrule and install your new tip. :smile:
The best tip for cleaning ferrules is really to just always use ferrules that resist chalk & remain clean.
That's one of the reasons my pool cues have ivory ferrules. Ivory really repels chalk buildup and the
ferrules remain perfectly clean and retain the white sheen & luster only ivory ferrules provide, plus
the great acoustical sound of the cue stroke (ping) and the unique feel it also imparts......go with ivory.
Matt B.
That's one of the reasons my pool cues have ivory ferrules. Ivory really repels chalk buildup and the
ferrules remain perfectly clean and retain the white sheen & luster only ivory ferrules provide, plus
the great acoustical sound of the cue stroke (ping) and the unique feel it also imparts......go with ivory.
Matt B.
Now, Matt. You know that Ivory is fragile and won't stand the abuse that man-made ferrules will.
And, besides. They smell like elephant.
That sounds like good advice, Tramp, but how do you know what a diamond in a goat's ass looks like? [Could be a pretty good story there.]
Attachments
A very educational thread!
But did you really want to learn about the subject?
But did you really want to learn about the subject?
I have not had time to carefully review everything in this thread just yet. Will read ecerything for sure!! I'm always looking for advice and new method for maintaining my cues!!
Thanks a lot!
That's the beauty of this place. You always get more than you ask for.
Ferrule cleaning, diamonds, goat's asses. We got it all.
+10
I can't believe how clean my shafts stay since I started cleaning off the tip before putting the shaft in the case (two years ago and I haven't had to clean the shaft since).
Ferrule
I try to clean the ferrule before I remove the old tip.
That way I don't get polish creams in the leather of the new tip.
And I don't round the edge of the ferrule
Some ferrule material has micro pits in it and cannot be polish to the point of sealing the ferrule where the chalk will not get in the ferrule material .
The Ivorine III ferrule material is that way .
I use Mcguiar's Polishing cream,, Polish out the ferrule with the polishing creams.
Then seal the ferrule with thin CA.
Then proceed with the tip removal and replacement .
Inspect the ferrule carefully that you don't miss a crack and a crack can be seen on a dirty ferrule the easiest ...........................................
I don't use Micro Mesh , one reason is it make heat and you need to use a water with the pads.
The polishing cream is a liquid too, and if the ferrule is sealed from day one of being installed or after its properly cleaned sealed and if the player does grind chalk on the sides of the ferrule then the ferrule will always remain sealed and stays cleaner.
I try to clean the ferrule before I remove the old tip.
That way I don't get polish creams in the leather of the new tip.
And I don't round the edge of the ferrule
Some ferrule material has micro pits in it and cannot be polish to the point of sealing the ferrule where the chalk will not get in the ferrule material .
The Ivorine III ferrule material is that way .
I use Mcguiar's Polishing cream,, Polish out the ferrule with the polishing creams.
Then seal the ferrule with thin CA.
Then proceed with the tip removal and replacement .
Inspect the ferrule carefully that you don't miss a crack and a crack can be seen on a dirty ferrule the easiest ...........................................
I don't use Micro Mesh , one reason is it make heat and you need to use a water with the pads.
The polishing cream is a liquid too, and if the ferrule is sealed from day one of being installed or after its properly cleaned sealed and if the player does grind chalk on the sides of the ferrule then the ferrule will always remain sealed and stays cleaner.