Standard size thru hole

j2pac

j2pac

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What would be considered a "standard" size, unthreaded starting thru hole for tubing, as it relates to ferrules, joints, and butt caps?
My thanks to any, and all for their advice. :cool:
j2
 
Ferrules, 1/4.
Joints, .575"
Butt caps, 3/4" or .700" is a little better for those who thread.
Joey~Not gonna argue against press-fitters~
 
JoeyInCali said:
Ferrules, 1/4.
Joints, .575"
Butt caps, 3/4" or .700" is a little better for those who thread.
Joey~Not gonna argue against press-fitters~
Click to expand...

Thank you Sir. I appreciate your feedback.
Joe P
 
Please bare in mind that Joey threads everything so his recommendations
would be for sizes close to his minor diameters. Not all thread everything.
For thru tubing, use whatever every other supplier uses : 5/16, 5/8 & 3/4.
 
Isn`t it smart to use industry standards?

Butt: ID .750" OD .1.375"
Joint: ID .625" OD .906"
Ferrule: ID .250" OD .562"
 
Joeys answer is the right one if u want to appeal to the entire market. Choosing to go with the common finish size will greatly restrict your sales. It's really that simple.
 
Kim Bye said:
Isn`t it smart to use industry standards?

Butt: ID .750" OD .1.375"
Joint: ID .625" OD .906"
Ferrule: ID .250" OD .562"
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Won't you rather ream or bore those holes to size after you take a fine pass on the OD ?
 
Thank you all gents. I sincerely appreciate all the input. :cool:
 
Before We Go.......

JoeyInCali said:
Won't you rather ream or bore those holes to size after you take a fine pass on the OD ?
Click to expand...

Most 'industry std.' tubing IDs are within a few thou. At least what I'm used to.
All that's really necessary is to break the interior 'glaze' for the epoxy to bond.
I also want to give the epoxy a couple thou to fill.
I haven't had to bore/ream much of my tubing. No biggie to adjust the tenon if I had to.
Bottom-line : Nothing comes apart unless I want it to.
 
JC said:
I have some with "industry standard" hole sizes and wish the hole was smaller.

JC
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Slightly undersized may be the way to go. Thank you for the response.
Joe P.
 
Hit every nail square on the head and just go with solid rod. It leaves all options available.
If you listen to the guys that use tube they are re-sizing and knocking the glaze off the ID anyway. I've yet to ever find a stock piece that is actually round on the inside.
There may also be someone who needs solid rod for their application. :wink:
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Hit every nail square on the head and just go with solid rod. It leaves all options available.
If you listen to the guys that use tube they are re-sizing and knocking the glaze off the ID anyway. I've yet to ever find a stock piece that is actually round on the inside.
There may also be someone who needs solid rod for their application. :wink:
Click to expand...

Deal. You had me at less PITA for me. ;)
 
j2pac said:
Slightly undersized may be the way to go. Thank you for the response.
Joe P.
Click to expand...

It is.
At least a MM smaller .
Better yet, .050" smaller.
You can still clean the whole and thread it .


Some desert weirdos would rather have them in rods because he likes to gut rods and watch their guts come out. :D

We create enough trash as it is.
 
JoeyInCali said:
It is.
At least a MM smaller .
Better yet, .050" smaller.
You can still clean the whole and thread it .


Some desert weirdos would rather have them in rods because he likes to gut rods and watch their guts come out. :D

We create enough trash as it is.
Click to expand...

WOW.....and here I thought we were friends. :(
 
I was going to butt in here, but I'm not going to open myself up.

I'll just point out that If you buy joint material at 5/8, it lends itself naturally to a 11/16-16 tap and if the tenon is around .640 then it might work well if you live thread it.
 
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