Conditioning Tips
- Thread starter lstevedus
- Start date
I used to use a tip tool on my various tips once a night or once a week, just kind of touching it up, whenever I would miscue etc. I read a few opinions on here saying just don't ever touch it, just use chalk.
Five months ago I got a kamui brown medium put on both of my shafts. I haven't used anything but a piece of chalk on them. Still have a pretty ok nickel shape on them too. I play 6-18 hours a week.
Five months ago I got a kamui brown medium put on both of my shafts. I haven't used anything but a piece of chalk on them. Still have a pretty ok nickel shape on them too. I play 6-18 hours a week.
http://www.last4ever.com/
the pro model is less abrasive so it shapes without removing as much leather
also has a scuffer
you might also think about
the morakami scuffer a knockoff to me of the kamui scuffer
i have both
they both work well
the kamui is alittle more abrasive to me
http://www.cuecomponents.com/gatorgrip.html
https://www.amazon.com/Kamui-Gator-Grip/dp/B015OS45X0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJ10K3FeYEw
i keep all 3 in my case
the pro model is less abrasive so it shapes without removing as much leather
also has a scuffer
you might also think about
the morakami scuffer a knockoff to me of the kamui scuffer
i have both
they both work well
the kamui is alittle more abrasive to me
http://www.cuecomponents.com/gatorgrip.html
https://www.amazon.com/Kamui-Gator-Grip/dp/B015OS45X0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJ10K3FeYEw
i keep all 3 in my case
I use the Morakami scuffer and really like it. Tip tools and shapers that sand the tip have been problems for me with layered tips. As a layered tip breaks in, the layers flatten substantially. I have had poor experience reshaping them because there is too much tendency for those thin layers to delaminate. The Kamui, Morakami, and related scuffers remove little/no tip. Since using the Morakami tool, my hard tips do not show signs of wear.
I doubt you will need to use a scuffer much on the tip, and even when using one a few times a month you will have a very long time using the tip. It's not like they are so expensive you can't replace it a few times a year. I like the tip picks myself instead of a scuffer, I only use a scuffer if it needs to be shaped.
The UTT is the best so far
The UTT is the best so farFor personal experience and also bc have been told by many tournament players in the ranks of semi-pros and amateur. The price is right and has refills for the abrasives, the mushroom effect is taken out w/o causing any harm and it has an effective taper. It is my experience as TD and player (to many by now) Live well and enjoy while ticking.....:wink::wink::wink:
The UTT is the best so farFor personal experience and also bc have been told by many tournament players in the ranks of semi-pros and amateur. The price is right and has refills for the abrasives, the mushroom effect is taken out w/o causing any harm and it has an effective taper. It is my experience as TD and player (to many by now) Live well and enjoy while ticking.....:wink::wink::wink:
http://www.last4ever.com/
"the pro model is less abrasive so it shapes without removing as much leather
also has a scuffer"
THIS
"the pro model is less abrasive so it shapes without removing as much leather
also has a scuffer"
THIS
I use the Cuetec Bowtie tool if serious shaping is needed; also from time to time to use the spikes instead of grinding the leather down.
For day to day maintenance I use sandpaper and manual work
120 - 240 (european). Works great.
But be warned, either the tip feels and performs fabulous OR you it will last long.
You can play with a flat tip (the all flatten out in the middle), but that's no fun really.
Should be good for 1-2years, though.
Have fun,
M
For day to day maintenance I use sandpaper and manual work
120 - 240 (european). Works great.
But be warned, either the tip feels and performs fabulous OR you it will last long.
You can play with a flat tip (the all flatten out in the middle), but that's no fun really.
Should be good for 1-2years, though.
Have fun,
M
A tip is meant to be trimmed down as it gets used. It's the one item on your cue that is meant to be changed regulary.
I don't know if it's a conspiracy perpetrated by tip manufacturers, but the abrasives in most all tip shapers is too rough, even for primary shaping. I have an Ultimate tool whose abrasives are not overly rough, but I still cut strips of 120 grit and put one on top of the abrasive so I have a finer cut. I hate when the tip pills up, but that is my preference. When I touch up, I just use 120 on top of the stock abrasive; I go until I have a tiny dot of blue chalk in the middle, then I stop. I just feel I don't have an accurate tip shape if the tip's pilled all over from abrasives that look like concrete.
Why tear it down?
Coz it needs it.
Scuff away, as you feel necessary...replace tips as needed.
That is my philosophy. Tips are replaceable and function best a certain way.
Throw it in the gutter an go buy another!
Coz it needs it.
Scuff away, as you feel necessary...replace tips as needed.
That is my philosophy. Tips are replaceable and function best a certain way.
Throw it in the gutter an go buy another!
Last 4 ever tip tool instructions....Scuffing
INSTRUCTIONS
SHOP ONLINE NOW
Tip Tool Instructions
Shape - use the concave radius abrasive to initially shape or reshape the tip to a perfect sized radius, either Dime or Nickel depending on which tool you purchased, (each tool has either a "D" or an "N stamped on the end). Slowly rotate the shaft and stroke the length of the tool across the top of the tip until uniform radius is achieved. It helps to chalk the tip first so you can see what part of the tip is being removed. When the center of the tip has all of the chalk removed, you have a perfectly shaped tip.
Scuff - use the flat bottom of the tool that has the coarsest grit to scuff your tip to maximize chalk holding properties. DO NOT drag the tool across the tip surface as you will alter the shape of the tip and reduce the life of the tip. Simply press the tool firmly against the tip and either rock across the tip surface, rotate the shaft and repeat until the entire tip surface has been textured, or, roll the tip against the flat scuffer as demonstrated by Dennis Searing and Rodney Morris on their videos. You should not remove tip material while scuffing, what you are trying to do is break the glaze and provide texture to hold chalk.
Mushroom Repair - use the narrow abrasive side of the tool and roll your shaft on a flat surface and stroke the tool across the mushroomed area of your tip while rolling the shaft until tip is no longer mushroomed and is uniformly round. (Tip: keep the Scuffing surface pointed away from the ferrule while working)
Tip Burnishing - use the leather side of the tool and roll your shaft on a flat surface while RAPIDLY stroking the leather across the sides of the tip in order to seal and harden (burnish) the sides of the tip. It helps to moisten the sides of the tip with saliva prior to burnishing. In addition to improving the tip's appearance, proper burnishing strengthens the sides of the tip and will reduce mushrooming. (Tip: keep the Scuffing surface pointed away from the ferrule while working)
INSTRUCTIONS
SHOP ONLINE NOW
Tip Tool Instructions
Shape - use the concave radius abrasive to initially shape or reshape the tip to a perfect sized radius, either Dime or Nickel depending on which tool you purchased, (each tool has either a "D" or an "N stamped on the end). Slowly rotate the shaft and stroke the length of the tool across the top of the tip until uniform radius is achieved. It helps to chalk the tip first so you can see what part of the tip is being removed. When the center of the tip has all of the chalk removed, you have a perfectly shaped tip.
Scuff - use the flat bottom of the tool that has the coarsest grit to scuff your tip to maximize chalk holding properties. DO NOT drag the tool across the tip surface as you will alter the shape of the tip and reduce the life of the tip. Simply press the tool firmly against the tip and either rock across the tip surface, rotate the shaft and repeat until the entire tip surface has been textured, or, roll the tip against the flat scuffer as demonstrated by Dennis Searing and Rodney Morris on their videos. You should not remove tip material while scuffing, what you are trying to do is break the glaze and provide texture to hold chalk.
Mushroom Repair - use the narrow abrasive side of the tool and roll your shaft on a flat surface and stroke the tool across the mushroomed area of your tip while rolling the shaft until tip is no longer mushroomed and is uniformly round. (Tip: keep the Scuffing surface pointed away from the ferrule while working)
Tip Burnishing - use the leather side of the tool and roll your shaft on a flat surface while RAPIDLY stroking the leather across the sides of the tip in order to seal and harden (burnish) the sides of the tip. It helps to moisten the sides of the tip with saliva prior to burnishing. In addition to improving the tip's appearance, proper burnishing strengthens the sides of the tip and will reduce mushrooming. (Tip: keep the Scuffing surface pointed away from the ferrule while working)
Thanks for all the feedback
I have the Kamui tip tool, and a couple of Williards, one is not as abrasive as the other. I just hate it when it seems you get the tip just right and then there's hardly much left, and you're getting a new one and starting over. I play a lot. I know you guys can relate.
I have the Kamui tip tool, and a couple of Williards, one is not as abrasive as the other. I just hate it when it seems you get the tip just right and then there's hardly much left, and you're getting a new one and starting over. I play a lot. I know you guys can relate.