Dead horse
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Hanging is fine, as is standing it perfectly upright. Regardless of previous advice, and assuming it is sufficiently oversize, do NOT seal it. You want it to do as much moving around ("warping") as it can while it's still big enough to re-center and re-cut. If you seal it up tight it's more likely to move AFTER the next cut or two - which may mean it's now too skinny to correct the centering properly.
Keeping a cue straight - butt OR shaft - is all about running a race between the wood wanting to move and the cuemaker cutting it down to size. The wood's goal is to contort into the shape it where it's most comfortable, and the cuemaker's goal is to engineer a "tie" right at the finish line of this race. In other words, the cuemaker wants to be taking his final light passes on the butt / shaft just at the same time that the wood has found it's most comfortable, relaxed state.
If you seal it up in its oversized condition you will inhibit the natural aging process, and during the next cut-down it will experience a greater shock at suddenly being exposed to ambient humidity. With butts this is less dramatic, of course, due to the shorter sections and the splicing techniques, but it still can be a factor.
If this advice runs counter to what other cuemakers have told you, consider this: top makers of fine furniture - I'm talking about the Tage Frids and Sam Maloofs of the world - would NEVER seal up various components during the build process. Wood is going to move, and it's impossible to prevent that natural occurrence. By allowing it to do all it's moving DURING the build process (instead of sealing it up tight until the very last cut) you can manipulate the process such that the wood is pretty much done moving right about the time you're done taking the last few finish cuts.
You're safe giving it a light coat of shellac or solvent-based sanding sealer to keep dust and crud out of the pores - both allow a fairly free flow of humidity into and out of wood, But applying Anchorseal, which is meant primarily for freshly cut wet or 'green' wood would be a mistake - as would wax, IMO.
TW
This thread illustrates a problem with internet forums.
Two experienced and respected cuemakers gave definitive answers (#8/#9) but the thread continues. At that point and for all intents and purposes, the thread was basically over.
If we're going to stifle heated discussion, there might as well be no forum. I actually find dissenting opinions interesting and more informative than a collectionof "yes men" marching in lock step...
I rest my case.
I'd say figure out where the blank will end up being used (cuemaker, location) and just get it there in time to let it normalize to that atmosphere. As long as it's stored stress free I wouldn't think hanging would make much difference.
This thread illustrates a problem with internet forums.
Two experienced and respected cuemakers gave definitive answers (#8/#9) but the thread continues. At that point and for all intents and purposes, the thread was basically over.
Yup. With this thread I think I am finished ever offering advise to neophyte cuemakers. Having watched some DVD's and YouTube videos, they already know everything anyway.
TW
Why are you concerned about changing if the end result has been what you seek?They're anywhere from one to seven years old. All are near perfectly straight when rolled.
Yup. With this thread I think I am finished ever offering advise to neophyte cuemakers. Having watched some DVD's and YouTube videos, they already know everything anyway.
TW
Oh, and remember, Type79, if forums were to be limited to being "among informed and experienced parties" only, this thread wouldn't exist. The OP, by asking a question, implicitly acknowledges his own lack of knowledge and insight regarding the subject matter, as do I. Nothing wrong with that.
Well, kinda keep in mind why this thread is interesting to me.
I do know how to refinish vintage furniture and I am familiar with creating and finishing simple basic household wood projects with hand tools--trim, simple display racks, shelving, etc. but certainly no pool cue assembly experience. However, I'll put my handmade acrylic and wood chalker's against anybody's.
So the need to prep my blanks in case I ever want to have one or two made into cues for myself or someone else never crossed my mind before. The treatment I give them is strictly to make them attractive for display purposes.
And if there is a better treatment I can give them to properly preserve them, then reading a thread like this is well worth my time and consideration.
For example: I live in southern Wisconsin, so if I want them to be as dry as possible for the cuemaker (if that is what is preferable), then maybe I might strip the one I am going to send off in spring and let it dry out through the dry cold winter months without any finish at all.
Without this thread, I would never have even given an idea like that a second thought.
So, anyway, I now will spend some time Googling and hitting the lumber and wood
craft sites to investigate the questions this thread has raised for me concerning the need to store blanks properly and prep them for future cue builds when I decide to do that.
So I will proceed by investigating the relationship of humidity to wood storage and read up on that since my woodworking doesn't normally require any aging or drying of raw wood.
I'll pass on the bickering. All I care about is that this thread has motivated me to learn more about storing and displaying my blanks, which if anyone hasn't figured out yet, is very important to me. So, in my opinion, overthinking the subject matter is better for me than underthinking it.
Oh, and remember, Type79, if forums were to be limited to being "among informed and experienced parties" only, this thread wouldn't exist. The OP, by asking a question, implicitly acknowledges his own lack of knowledge and insight regarding the subject matter, as do I. Nothing wrong with that.
I'm surprised you didn't realize "hanging" IS a stress-free storage technique.
TW