How to fix "cloudy" black leather wrap?
- Thread starter dbgordie
- Start date
Pretty certain You can have it dyed black again....
GO to the ASK THE CUEMAKER Forum-
Here on AZ:wink:
GO to the ASK THE CUEMAKER Forum-
Here on AZ:wink:
The expert on leather wraps at Tiger uses a clear shoe polish spray.....I bought a can in Vegas...It might be on Tiger web site...Or just look for some at the store.....I used it and it works fine....Doesn't last forever but for quite awhile......
Doesn't look bad, gives it a little more character. Play with awhile, ask around, then make a decision!
Apply black shoe polish wax like you would a pair of shoes and then buff with a clean rag. Other than occasionally tamping the wrap with a damp towel followed by a dry one, the procedure I just mentioned is THE method to maintain the kind of leather that is on that cue. Nothing else.
If the cleaner dried the leather at all, try good ol' saddle soap. It moisturizes and conditions the leather and is safe. About the only downside is it can darken leather, shouldn't be a concern with black.
But by all means ask the pros before attempting any methods mentioned here.
Nice cue. Good luck.
But by all means ask the pros before attempting any methods mentioned here.
Nice cue. Good luck.
Good advice. Thanks
I think this is what I will try first. Thanks JNP. Sounds like polishing my boots in the academy. :grin-square:
Thanks Jimmy. I'm very happy to have my grandpa's cue. I didn't know even know he had a cue. I did know he was a bowler. Bowled a lot of 300 games too.
The saddle soap idea sounds good and I'll try it if other methods don't work.
Jazz is right...I went to a reputable cue maker with something similar. he placed the cue (butt) in the lathe applied black KIWI shoe polish to the leather wrap and within a few minutes it was like new.
Go to the Tandy Leather website. Lots of do-it-yourself leather and leather products.
I bet you can find some leather dye there. Just make sure you mask off everything well that you don't want dyed.
I work with leather often, and I would say just to leave it alone.
It would all start with what kind of leather the wrap is - that determines what sort of product you should be using. Car upholstery leather is not saddle leather is not garment leather. I can't even try to make a guess based on that image. What you're dealing with here is for sure not the same sort of leather involved with shoes, so you're entirely guessing if the polish/restoration formula will not negatively interact with how the leather is adhered to the cue.
You wouldn't want to have it dyed. Dyeing is really messy business, by nature bleeds extremely deep, and you could easily transfer it to the cue and your hand in use. I've sworn off dyeing and if I need colored leather, just purchase it that way. Even if you seal it, you're at the mercy of the sealer remaining intact before you wear through it with hand sweat. Depending on your process and the leather, it can harden out the leather and accelerate cracking/drying out.
Saddle soap involves mixing it with water, something you don't want getting onto the cue through penetration where the leather meets the wood. The secondary consequence that's real troublesome is that if you get the leather too supple, it's prone to stretching or forming a flap of excess material within your grip, or reducing the effectiveness of the adhesive so that it starts peeling off. If you must, just avoid the edges and use as little moisture as possible.
Tandy is the Michael's/Hobby Lobby of leather goods - quite expensive for low-medium grade materials possibly sold under generically a different name. I can't think of a specific product that would help here and I try to shop elsewhere whenever possible.
It would all start with what kind of leather the wrap is - that determines what sort of product you should be using. Car upholstery leather is not saddle leather is not garment leather. I can't even try to make a guess based on that image. What you're dealing with here is for sure not the same sort of leather involved with shoes, so you're entirely guessing if the polish/restoration formula will not negatively interact with how the leather is adhered to the cue.
You wouldn't want to have it dyed. Dyeing is really messy business, by nature bleeds extremely deep, and you could easily transfer it to the cue and your hand in use. I've sworn off dyeing and if I need colored leather, just purchase it that way. Even if you seal it, you're at the mercy of the sealer remaining intact before you wear through it with hand sweat. Depending on your process and the leather, it can harden out the leather and accelerate cracking/drying out.
Saddle soap involves mixing it with water, something you don't want getting onto the cue through penetration where the leather meets the wood. The secondary consequence that's real troublesome is that if you get the leather too supple, it's prone to stretching or forming a flap of excess material within your grip, or reducing the effectiveness of the adhesive so that it starts peeling off. If you must, just avoid the edges and use as little moisture as possible.
Tandy is the Michael's/Hobby Lobby of leather goods - quite expensive for low-medium grade materials possibly sold under generically a different name. I can't think of a specific product that would help here and I try to shop elsewhere whenever possible.
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