conical taper for pool
- Thread starter evergruven
- Start date
58”
Same. Maybe a little less because I see more easily exactly where I’m hitting the CB.
Yes, it’s like a snooker cue except for materials used (maple, plastic ferrule).
I designed my shaft (Ed Young made it to my specs) to do three things:
- squirt less (it has the lowest squirt I’ve ever heard of)
- let me see more precisely where I’m hitting the CB
- hit stiff
Couldn’t be more pleased with it after 15+ years.
pj
chgo
Last edited:
Conical any time.
Getting a straight stroke is just so much easier, just move your grip hand forward and the taper will do the rest. Also the taper is very predictable and rises constantly.
All this strange other tapering is disturbing my stroke and I keep missing, because the cue tip suddenly rises when the taper changes, depending on how far away you bridge.
Also, no closed bridge for me.
Getting a straight stroke is just so much easier, just move your grip hand forward and the taper will do the rest. Also the taper is very predictable and rises constantly.
All this strange other tapering is disturbing my stroke and I keep missing, because the cue tip suddenly rises when the taper changes, depending on how far away you bridge.
Also, no closed bridge for me.
I have a friend that is a lambros-sponsored player and he has a 55" cue made for him and he alleges is is better, as per your theory.
Hes a nut and I guess you are too.
:shrug:
Hes a nut and I guess you are too.
:shrug:
reads like a sweet stick..thanks sir!
I like the way the conical swings. since I use a mostly open bridge and my closed bridge is loose, I do wonder what it would be like using a tighter bridge on a cone, but I'm sure it's not for everybody, anyway, which leads me to
almond, cashew, peanut, and pool, bb :thumbup:
I was taught by Bob Jewett that the closed bridge should be tight. Otherwise it serves no purpose. A loose closed bridge might as well be an open bridge is what he said.
At least that's what I recall from a lesson several years ago.
I only use a closed bridge to make my bridge hand a little smaller in close quarters - that doesn't require it to be tight. I don't know of anything physically useful a tight closed bridge does, unless your stroke tends to move your shaft around before contact with the CB.
pj
chgo
kenny hall
Registered
I prefer the conical taper. I think it is the best taper for developing a 'pure stroke'. I am not a scientist but I believe the conical taper, mixed with good mechanics, helps me hit a slightly descending contact that is needed on most pool shots to best keep the ball on the intended line. The cue skids for on ways and then rolls to the target on longer shots. Just watch some of the better pros with great mechanics and you will see how this works. Most pro snooker players have great pure strokes and their cues are conical tapered. That old saying about putting a tip on a broom handle and these guys (pros) will run out applies, but the fact remains: for the others of us. A good,solid and effective (and powerful) pool stroke is most easily attained with a conical constant taper. Just my opinion.
PS.....I am now playing big table rotation games pool with a snooker cue that is 9.8 mm at the tip. You get what you put into the shot with it and nothing more. You can not wimp out on your stroke and expect anything but disaster, but properly hit shots are powerful indeed.
Very well said!!!!!
i use it for carom, i like it for pool too, when its a long cue, the taper is not as thick, which helps in pool, i like a stiff hittin stick
also whatever is on a dufferin house cue, i found one at a slick willies thats the best feelin/hittin cue iever picked up, all ugly, but is nice and stiff
a local guy i asked to turn down my shaft, keeping the same straight taper, put some kind of pool taper that hit exactly the same, but was a tooth pick that didnt get bigger till the last few inches,
hit the same, but felt gawd awful, he made me a new one for destroying my original
hit the same, but felt gawd awful, he made me a new one for destroying my original
He wasn't very smart in doing that .
1MM taper to the middle of the shaft is gradual enough.
I turn down requests in making shafts straight to the middle .
It's a warp waiting to happen.
Because the butt must be over a rail on nearly all shots, it’s always “descending slightly” no matter the taper - in fact, a conical taper makes the tip rise slightly, counteracting that natural “descent” a little.
Most advice you hear is to keep your cue as level as possible to avoid hitting downward, which can cause unwanted mini-masse (swerve).
pj
chgo
Too long for me...13 at the tip with a minute, if any, taper for the first 6 inches then slightly curved taper for the next 11. At that 16.5 to 17 inch mark it'd be a 2mm rise (15mm) from the tip.
Personally not a fan of a conical taper.
hi pat, do you find it easier shooting off the rail with a smaller tip?
with that tip, do you experience much unwanted swerve? how are straight-in shots for ya?
kenny hall
Registered
What I am saying (or trying to) is this, Patrick. When stroking properly, to keep the cue ball on the intended line, there is the very slight down stroke on the cue ball. Maybe it is the rail height causing the slight elevation of the butt of the cue that causes us to do that but the effect is the same. A skid and then a roll on most firmly struck shots.
Firm is a relative term but most decent pool players know that when we 'weeny' out on a stroke, our intended position for the next shot is usually severely compromised or lost completely, plus a lot of times we do not pocket the ball we are playing. I used to be a total 'feel' player. I did not know why I pocketed the balls just that they went where I intended. As I have gotten older and survived many, many serious health issues pool has taken a back burner by necessity and I am at the point now where my natural talent has abandoned me (the feel game) and practice is limited (no table at home). I still love to play and compete so I am going back to the basics and trying to learn proper technique. Thus, I am playing with a cue that s designed for snooker. And that has shown me the revelation that I am speaking of here.
The conical constant taper cue promotes a good solid hit on the cue. Long pro tapers are fine and feel good going through your fingers. That long natural stroke is a thing of beauty to watch and experience. But for up and comers who want to learn proper cueing, I will whole-heartedly recommend a snooker type cue with a thinner tip and a constant taper./////ps.....I am using the open bridge a lot more than I used to. I believe that is because I am focusing on getting "through the ball" much more than I did 'back when' !!
What is conical taper to you?