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ThinSlice said:
Ok. It’s been a while. Over a year since I thought much about it. What I do is I clamp Donne the non-stretch end. Then on the other side I pull my max pull as recommended. Before hand I would have marked it un-stretched. I mark the max pull. Then back it off and mark it according to how much of a pull I want to accomplish. I can get more than 3. But it’s not practical. So I tried 3 and it was almost impossible. So 2.5 is my index. That’s not exactly simple either but it’s achievable for a novice like myself. That’s the process I use.


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And if you can stretch it 2 1/2" side to side, you still have to back off that maximum stretch by 3/4" in order to get your working stretch which would be 1 3/4" which is how tight I stretch the Simonis 860HR on a 9ft bed, and that's with the Tour Blue which has a 1/4" more stretch to work with than the green does.
 
I used cloth pliers. Like I said I gave up on trying at 3”. I settled in at 2.5


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ThinSlice said:
I used cloth pliers. Like I said I gave up on trying at 3”. I settled in at 2.5


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That's why I asked because the pliers give you a faults positive stretch of more than your capability with your hands which will lead to visible stretch shadows on the playing surface, have any pictures you can post?
 
realkingcobra said:
That's why I asked because the pliers give you a faults positive stretch of more than your capability with your hands which will lead to visible stretch shadows on the playing surface, have any pictures you can post?
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Yeah, you can see the stretch shadows, but not to pronounced, but they'd be more obvious if the cloth was right side up, see all that fuzz on it....that's the bottom side of the cloth.
 
I think the lighter colored cloth is throwing you off. Trust me I am not stupid enough put it upside down. I have done several tables with 860 and it’s pretty obvious which side is up. Especially with the dyed in label.


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I think if the cloth was green the stretch marks would be way more pronounced. The lighter color seems to hide it better. Which is to my amateur Benefit.


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ThinSlice said:
The bed cloth is also right side up. It’s just the close up pics and the color. It’s pretty easy at least for me to tell the difference. The backside almost looks like a woolen suit. Less distinctive obviously.


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Yeah, maybe so, it just looks fuzzy in that last picture you posted is why I questioned it, but it can be hard to tell by the angle of pictures too.
 
realkingcobra said:
Yeah, maybe so, it just looks fuzzy in that last picture you posted is why I questioned it, but it can be hard to tell by the angle of pictures too.
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I did my best to keep the pull straight all around. It was a pain in the A$$. I guess my thought was to get it as tight as possible to prevent re-stretching it and therefore causing more issues. I will learn from this. I don’t know if I will personally do it again. It was a lot of work. Then it sorta becomes a rush because you want to see it done and inevitably that turns into a 2am completion. So I will see how I feel when that time comes.


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Also, placing the staples further back in the cloth relief staple track will help prevent that looping look under the rails between staples.
 
But I will say, from what I see in your pictures, and without looking at your staple work, you did a pretty good job, and for sure better than a lot of the other installers work I've seen. But I don't care for those pocket ears sticking out...LOL
 
realkingcobra said:
Also, placing the staples further back in the cloth relief staple track will help prevent that looping look under the rails between staples.
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I wish I could have taken pictures in progress. What I do is take the staple gun to the edge of the cloth/staple relief. This leaves about 1/4” from the edge of the relief to the staple. Only way I could get closer with my gun is to shoot at an angle which I am sure is not recommended.

So in this case I think it’s just amateur job. I have seen worse. Even in my hall with self proclaimed professionals. I have also seen much better. I think I am just pulling a touch too hard once I staple. I hate ripples due to loose cloth. I would like to be better at it but I don’t do it enough to gather the practice.


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The trick to mounting the pockets is in how you staple the cloth, and tuck the pockets in behind the facings. You don't need to put a small nail in them either to hold them in place if done right. As you can see in this picture, the GC4 pockets sit all the way in.
 

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realkingcobra said:
But I will say, from what I see in your pictures, and without looking at your staple work, you did a pretty good job, and for sure better than a lot of the other installers work I've seen. But I don't care for those pocket ears sticking out...LOL
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Remember me saying there are a few things I wanted to tweak. You nailed it. I CANT stand those ears sticking out. That and I want to flush those castings. Flushing the castings you have given me advice on. Both require me to recover. Which is why I am waiting till the cloth is worn.

BTW....thanks for the compliment! I didn’t expect you to give me any compliments.


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ThinSlice said:
I wish I could have taken pictures in progress. What I do is take the staple gun to the edge of the cloth/staple relief. This leaves about 1/4” from the edge of the relief to the staple. Only way I could get closer with my gun is to shoot at an angle which I am sure is not recommended.

So in this case I think it’s just amateur job. I have seen worse. Even in my hall with self proclaimed professionals. I have also seen much better. I think I am just pulling a touch too hard once I staple. I hate ripples due to loose cloth. I would like to be better at it but I don’t do it enough to gather the practice.


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Place the nose of your staple gun all the way to the back of the dado, then turn it to a slight angle, then staple.
 

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