I’m considering buying this diamond red label table but have little info on what exactly it is and how it compares to the new ones you see in tournaments etc.. this diamond is of course a three piece slate but I was told it was a 2007 model but I find that hard to believe. I currently have a Gandy Sportsman table in very good shape with good rails and 860 cloth. I’m wondering if it’s worth going through the hassle of selling and moving my Gandy To replace it with this Red label model diamond. I’m a regular tour player about a 630 Fargo so I take the game serious and want to make sure I’m investing properly . I’ll put pictures of the diamond below. I guess what I'm asking is, does an older red label play the same as the 9 ft Diamonds you see at the US Open etc.. Any info is appreciated.
What is the real difference between Red Label and Blue Label Diamonds?
- Thread starter I miss alot
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Go to "Ask a Mechanic" section. This has been covered a LOT. Basically, on a red-label the the upper part of the cushions are angled too steeply downwards causing banks to go short. In 2010 Diamond, with input from AZ'r RKC, shallowed this angle resulting in better bank angles. You can alter a red to blue specs but you need a good tech and it may not be cheap. If you're wanting current US Open table specs i'd search out a blue-label.
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Dang, that was exactly the type of response every sincere question on the internet deserves. Good on you for being so responsive to his inquiry. There are some good people on this website. 
In addition to that, I believe at some point Diamond changed the brand of rubber. I agree that the "Talk to a Mechanic" subforum should have a lot of detailed info: https://forums.azbilliards.com/forumdisplay.php?f=54
That's a much older Diamond as well, they don't sell that ball return anymore, and for a good reason. That table also has no leveling system other than the feet that are adjustable. Want to talk more, feel free to call me, Glen, 702-927-5689.
Best info possible right there ^^^^
I have a Gandy ‘sportsman’ also, and set up a little tighter than standard. It’s a ‘good’
Table for most all needs..if lt is still in good shape, no need for a change IMO..if it’s not
Tight enough, just don’t count any balls that hit the rail before the pocket...
If all the tables
You go to outside of home, are diamonds, or GC’s and you want to simulate the playing
Conditions of those, (or what you gamble on or compete on) and the cost isn’t prohibitive
For you... then go for it..but I’d go for the best, or it won’t be much of a jump. JMSHO
Td
I'm going to say this, the Diamond Professional is not one of my favorite Diamonds to work on for a few reasons, especially this one, but I'll explain my reasons, so don't shy away.
First off, yes, the red labels play different than todays tournament Diamonds do because they went through a rail redesign in Oct 2010, and that made a significant change in how the rails play. But, in the right hands, the table you're considering can be updated to play just like the newer Diamonds play. It more than likely has the Artemis cushions already on the rails, but if not, no big deal, they'd have to be replaced anyway. The playability difference between red a d blue has nothing to do with the cushions.
The problem I have with the ball return is that other table mechanics try taking the complete rail system off when they're removing the top rails, without realizing there isn't enough room between the rail skirts and ball return to do so, but that don't stop them from tearing up the ball return trying to do so.
Either the ball return has to be removed first, or the rail skirts need to be taken off a d set down on the floor first, then the rails can be removed. Either way, it's advised to use a 1/4" extension with a 9/16" swivel socket, because you can't get straight on the heads of the skirt or rail bolts with the ball return system in place, most table mechanics don't carry swivel sockets!!
Then the MDF backing under the slate for stapling the cloth to, as well as mounting the ball return won't last, and won't last all that long on any table, which is why I convensed Diamond to drop it all together in their production and switch over to my glue down system which does not require the use of.MDF or staples, but .most don't know the correct way of stretch indexing the bed cloth yet, which on the table you posted pictures of you can clearly see the cloth stretch shadows on the right side of the slate coming out from under the rails into the playing surface.
Last, no slate leveling system .means that once the table gets set in place, and put together, no one wants the headache of coming back to relieve the slates as they adjust to the environment they're in, and the level will change after a period of time, trust me, just like the rail bolts WILL come loose, so you'd need a couple of special tools kept on hand in order to check and tighten the rail bolts, the leaving system Diamond uses today won't work on this table because the ball return prevents it, but my leveling system does work 100%.
Overall, it's a great, but pain in the ass pool table to work on, but if all is done right, it's a hell of a table to play on, and yes, as well as any Diamond produced today.
Glen, I've got one of these (8.5' red label from around '99 no ball return), and I kinda agree. Mine definitely banks short, but I cope. The slates are each in different states of level a couple of years after install. Kinda needs new pockets now, too.
What bothers me about my table is that I've got some "dish" in the 30mm slates. How does that even happen??