I could comment, but I doubt most will agree, because you all envision what a frame should be like, without the knowledge of leveling slates, or just how much they can be manipulated. To back up my point, none of you can figure out how a 3 piece slate can be installed on a frame....yet not mounted to it.
If you want to see another style, steel long beams, wood across.
Do pool tables (3 piece slate) need cross beams ONLY or should a pool table frame have a center beam for support of the slate.
Thanks,
Jim "preacherman"
And yet, the outside frame still carries 100% of the weight of the slate and rails, don't matter how much frame work is in the middle...its all connected to the 4 outside frame boards.
Glen...did you ever see a nine-legged table?
An old Turkish guy in Montreal showed me a picture of one about 30 years ago....
...it was a Turkish carom 5x10 table.
Think it’s a good idea?
....middle three legs right down the center
And yet, the outside frame still carries 100% of the weight of the slate and rails, don't matter how much frame work is in the middle...its all connected to the 4 outside frame boards.
9 legs is compensation for a weaker frame.
I could comment, but I doubt most will agree, because you all envision what a frame should be like, without the knowledge of leveling slates, or just how much they can be manipulated. To back up my point, none of you can figure out how a 3 piece slate can be installed on a frame....yet not mounted to it.
The point is that slate is not infinitely stiff and most likely not dead flat. Of course more distributed support and a larger number of points to adjust it are better.
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I would tend to agree, I'm looking at a used table 9' for cheap (under $600) by Atlantic Billiards Corporation. I just not sure what I think of no center beam.
It played pretty nice, should I go for it not??
Ok, the weight of the slate sits on the perimeter framework, the leveling of the slate has nothing persay to do with the amount of crossmembers or what they're made of, if they're connected to the perimeter framework, then all those crossmembers you guys are thinking is needed, won't stop a table frame from being swayback end to end under the weight of the slate...think about it. The strength of the frame in a pool table, is the primary support structure design, the exterior framework. In fact, it's better that the slate DONT touch anywhere in the center of the frame as to allow the slate to sit as flat as possible on the outside structural support, instead of the internal supports, that way the crossmembers are not in the way of the slate sitting flat. If in such case the center of the slate is low from side to side, THAT is what the crossmembers are for, to provide a place in order to provide some lift to the center of the slate by way of pushing up off the crossmembers in order to lift the center of the slate....which in itself, requires very little effort to lift the center of the slate, only a few pounds of force is needed in most cases, which equals the effort to pull down a high centered slate if crowned....but good luck doing that when all those crossmembers you feel a table needs....interfere with pulling the slate down flat, the best you can hope for is to hold the center down while you then go around and raise the outside edges of the slate to compensate for the crowning. The only place slate should actually have any contact on the frame, is around the perimeter framework, the rest of all that so called framework should have at least a 1/8" gap from the slate as to NOT interfere with its leveling, then it should only be used as necessary!!!!
Thanks for sharing. What you shared is one of the logical arguments. Why do any tables put center beams if not necessary?