A-joint problems

pip9ball said:
I've actually read his book front to back several times and infact followed his process. However, as with most things in life things don't always work out perfectly and thus the reason for my question.



Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


I respect that you tried it first before you questioned.
Well done.
 
It is almost impossible to get a perfect, wobble free fit at the "A" joint.
You can do things as precise as you can and still get a bit of a wobble.
The rings might not always be perfectly flat and that can cause a wobble.
Using slow cure epoxy at that joint allows you time to place the butt and forearm between centers and rotate the rings around to find a sweet spot where the wobble is minimized or eliminated.
I prefer the joint screwed in as tight as I can get it before letting the epoxy set.

Facing the tenon is not an issue as there should be a slight gap between it and the end of the hole that the epoxy will fill in.

Hope this helps.
 
WilleeCue said:
It is almost impossible to get a perfect, wobble free fit at the "A" joint.
You can do things as precise as you can and still get a bit of a wobble.
The rings might not always be perfectly flat and that can cause a wobble.
Using slow cure epoxy at that joint allows you time to place the butt and forearm between centers and rotate the rings around to find a sweet spot where the wobble is minimized or eliminated.
I prefer the joint screwed in as tight as I can get it before letting the epoxy set.

Facing the tenon is not an issue as there should be a slight gap between it and the end of the hole that the epoxy will fill in.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

In my experience there are two things that can be done to make the A joint clean.

Build your ring pack and glue it on one side or the other first, leaving the outside ring slightly thick and then face it off as an assemblyy with the cue part be it forearm or butt.

True your female parts to the ID and not the OD no matter how concentric you believe the OD to be. Think it out and build some jigs out of scrap to accomplish this.
 
JC said:
In my experience there are two things that can be done to make the A joint clean.

Build your ring pack and glue it on one side or the other first, leaving the outside ring slightly thick and then face it off as an assemblyy with the cue part be it forearm or butt.

True your female parts to the ID and not the OD no matter how concentric you believe the OD to be. Think it out and build some jigs out of scrap to accomplish this.
Click to expand...
In my experience , you glue the rings then face off the bottom one BETWEEN CENTERS. I mean in the true words of between centers. Not chucked up but between a dead center in the chuck that is indicated to near zero and a live center in the tailstock.

You do the same for the handle with a screw and tenon jig the fits the tenon and threaded hole .

And when you dry fit them, you mark the spots.
 
This is fun stuff. When you make plain janes, this is the best time to perfect your -A- joint. When and if you start doing Vee points, you'll appreciate the work you have put it getting it right.
 
Michael Webb said:
This is fun stuff. When you make plain janes, this is the best time to perfect your -A- joint. When and if you start doing Vee points, you'll appreciate the work you have put it getting it right.
Click to expand...

I agree with Michael ... wait till you got points to contend with.
I am not talking floating CNC points ... they will stay even.
But the sharp pointed spliced ones are a different story.
Every time you reduce the diameter of the forearm you risk leaving the points uneven.
There are tricks to make them look even ... but the cue maker knows!
Dead even spliced points are so desirable because it reflects the skill it took the cue maker to accomplish that.
Making that dead perfect cue is something I am STILL working to achieve.
 
Hi All -

I appreciate all the replies and I'm starting to realize that even with a simple plain jane, there are still several variables at play.

I'm going to try to simplify things by making some mock A joints from old house cue starting with no rings. I'm a computer engineer by day so perfection is in my blood lol.

I would rather eliminate all possible shortcuts now as I know things get way more complicated when points come into the picture.

In any case, I'll post back to this thread when I've finally gotten good results.

Thanks,

Phil

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
pip9ball said:
Hi All -

I appreciate all the replies and I'm starting to realize that even with a simple plain jane, there are still several variables at play.

I'm going to try to simplify things by making some mock A joints from old house cue starting with no rings. I'm a computer engineer by day so perfection is in my blood lol.

I would rather eliminate all possible shortcuts now as I know things get way more complicated when points come into the picture.

In any case, I'll post back to this thread when I've finally gotten good results.

Thanks,

Phil

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Hi Phil
Just my opinion but. Whether your connection has rings or not doesn't matter much but myself, I would always have them glued on each piece, glued and dry before putting the cue together.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top