How to fix a table that plays long

[jtompilot]

I have to aim at at 2.5 diamond position to get to 3 rail corner.

That doesn’t seem long to me. My GC4 played real close to a blue label Diamond.

From a corner shooting to the 3 diamond the CB should catch the long rail above the pocket on a three rail shot. With new cloth it will go long and probably split the pocket on the three rail.

 

[Bob Jewett]

I have to aim at at 2.5 diamond position to get to 3 rail corner.

I would describe that as a fine result, especially if you keep your cloth and balls clean. On dirty, old cloth, you have to shoot to 2 on pool tables. On one table I play on, you have to shoot to 1 and it might still come in short.

Where do you want the target to be?

 

[Kracken]

I would describe that as a fine result, especially if you keep your cloth and balls clean. On dirty, old cloth, you have to shoot to 2 on pool tables. On one table I play on, you have to shoot to 1 and it might still come in short.

Where do you want the target to be?

I was thinking it should be around 3rd diamond but I guess I will leave it. I was just thinking if I needed to adjust anything now would be the time since I am re clothing and reglueing one rail cushion. Thanks for the info everyone!

 

[Bob Jewett]

I was thinking it should be around 3rd diamond but I guess I will leave it. I was just thinking if I needed to adjust anything now would be the time since I am re clothing and reglueing one rail cushion. Thanks for the info everyone!

The third diamond to get to the corner works on pool tables when the cloth is brand new and slippery. I think that HR has a lot less of the brand-new slip. On carom tables, three usually works to get to the corner from the corner.

But your use of the term is backwards. A pool table where you shoot to 3 (corner-5 system, corner to corner, standard calibration shot) is considered to play "long". A table where you have to shoot to 1, such as the table I mentioned above, is said to play very "short".

Whether those labels make sense or not is a good discussion. Mike Shamos in his huge illustrated dictionary of billiard terms does not list any reference to short/long prior to Byrne's first book. Shamos has a good definition of whether a rail plays short/long: if you need more running side spin than expected on a cushion to get the desired angle off the cushion, the cushion is said to play "short".

 

[maha]

depends on the balls, table , cloth, your stroke speed, amount of english to find the correct spot to 3 cushion to the corner. it will usually be in the 2nd to 3rd diamond range. when you check a table 2 1/2 is where you start.
your table is fine.

 

[Tony_in_MD]

The GC II's also.

Profile was for the Monarch cushions not the superspeeds.

I thought it was the 1s that had the different profile?

Wonder if there's a problem with the rail torque? I also never heard of stock GC playing too long, unless it was brand new cloth. Wheeeeeeee!

 

[MooseKnuckle]

depends on the balls, table , cloth, your stroke speed, amount of english to find the correct spot to 3 cushion to the corner. it will usually be in the 2nd to 3rd diamond range. when you check a table 2 1/2 is where you start.
your table is fine.

Thanks to OP asking and all those who replied.

This answered my question as well.

I was recently watching a Rollie Williams video with Jennifer Barretta where she was showing the 'spot on the wall' aiming method. The table check she did went to the second diamond and she stated that "most tables run to the #2 diamond" with slight adjustments for player stroke and weather! [if its raining outside table plays different]

My import 7 foot table checks at the 2.5 diamond, good to know it's ok

 

[Patrick Johnson]

1-Rail Test?

I appreciate all the advice about 3-railers, but I wonder why it's best to measure this with a 3-rail shot using side spin. Why not a 1-rail kick with no side spin - wouldn't that eliminate variables?

My test shot for an unfamiliar table is from one corner to the other corner on the same long rail, aiming with no side spin at where the diamond would be behind the opposite side pocket. This is also better for me because I shoot way more 1-rail kicks than 3-railers.

What am I missing?

pj
chgo

 

[maha]

sure pat you check all the rails and diamonds for one rail banks and kicks. with no english and then with different amounts and different speeds to learn exactly how they play.

the 3 rail shot gives the ball a chance to slide with the first angle and also pick up spin off the rails so you can get a good idea of the rails going around the table. and it also will magnify the amount they are off/different than you realize.

 

[Bob Jewett]

I appreciate all the advice about 3-railers, but I wonder why it's best to measure this with a 3-rail shot using side spin. Why not a 1-rail kick with no side spin - wouldn't that eliminate variables?

My test shot for an unfamiliar table is from one corner to the other corner on the same long rail, aiming with no side spin at where the diamond would be behind the opposite side pocket. This is also better for me because I shoot way more 1-rail kicks than 3-railers.

What am I missing?

pj
chgo

I think the 3-rail return is more sensitive to table conditions than most 1-rail no-english kicks.

As for why use running follow on the shot, I think that is going to give you the most consistent results on a single table.