Whatever happened to the good ole days of burnishing the shaft with a dollar bill? Maybe a $50 if you were high-brow.
In woodworking, 150, 220 is considered fine grit.
No, Bob, You were correct in every instance. 320 grit paper is considered fine and I'll guarantee it is being used by 95% of the cue makers or cue repair shops on shafts new and old if necessary.And I was talking about old Dufferin (one-piece?) house cues that likely have 20 years of oil buildup on them. The sort that will happily fill the grit of 300 in 30 seconds of work. But I may have misunderstood what the OP is dealing with.
Yes, but someone had to use a courser grit to get to to the 600 smoothnessWhat kind of wood working are you talking about?
When working on a tung oil finish I start at 600 and finish at 1500
150 is indeed, "fine grit".What kind of wood working are you talking about?
When working on a tung oil finish I start at 600 and finish at 1500
Shiny.What kind of wood working are you talking about?
When working on a tung oil finish I start at 600 and finish at 1500
Lol. Not much else huh?I WEAR A GLOVE
Lol. Not much else huh?
You let the tung oil cure at 600-grit for 5-6 months and then start the last 10 coats, taking out the bumps with 600 and then starting the tung oil sessions. This prevents the shine from leaving over time.Shiny.
Grades above 400 will do that albeit temporarily. FI if your tung finish has no varnish , it'll go dull again.
5-6 mo is raw oil right? Or is that boiled or otherwise catalyzed? I've always used Minwax or Danish oil. Can't wait 2 years to appreciate a finish.You let the tung oil cure at 600-grit for 5-6 months and then start the last 10 coats, taking out the bumps with 600 and then starting the tung oil sessions. This prevents the shine from leaving over time.
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