Fox 12x36 lathe

T

tomatoetom

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have the gunsmith model of this lathe, with spider rear spindle 1.57 I.D. 2.050 O.D. Looking for ideas on mounting rear chuck. Also no threads
 
Make a shaft that fits the OD. Have 8 indexed threaded holes like 5/16 18.
So you can dial it it .
Attach a 4-jaw Taig chuck at the left end .
Make sure you get at least 22" from chuck to chuck faces.
 
Make sure you get at least 22" from chuck to chuck faces.
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Is this for optimum centering with a shaft? Or something else? (the specific length)?

Thanks!
smt <---has made outboard mounts for chucks on several hardinge second ops, did not measure distance between faces.
 
Ssonerai said:
Is this for optimum centering with a shaft? Or something else? (the specific length)?

Thanks!
smt <---has made outboard mounts for chucks on several hardinge second ops, did not measure distance between faces.
Click to expand...
I prefer 24" to 25" . That way I'm chucking on the sleeve not the bottom of the wrap at the rear when doing joint work .
Truer that way .

Dan Janes set-up a Feeler lathe for Falcon back in the days . It had a nice 3-bearing steady rest for the tip end when doing shaft joint work .
 
Have you checked the chuck that Chris Hightower sells for the left side?
www.cuesmith.com

Chuck - Rear Chuck for Metal Lathe - Cue Man Billiard Products

Rear chuck for metal lathe, with micro screw adjusting back plate. This chuck is the same 1.4" bore self centering 3 jaw chuck we use on our Deluxe Cue Smith, but it has a special back plate with adjustable centering screws for easy accurate rear spindle mounting on many metal lathes and some...
www.cuesmith.com www.cuesmith.com

The mounting ring is thick and can be bored out to fit your spindle should that be needed.
I installed one on my Porper cue lathe and it works great.


IMG_1009.jpeg
 
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WilleeCue said:
Have you checked the chuck that Chris Hightower sells for the left side?
www.cuesmith.com

Chuck - Rear Chuck for Metal Lathe - Cue Man Billiard Products

Rear chuck for metal lathe, with micro screw adjusting back plate. This chuck is the same 1.4" bore self centering 3 jaw chuck we use on our Deluxe Cue Smith, but it has a special back plate with adjustable centering screws for easy accurate rear spindle mounting on many metal lathes and some...
www.cuesmith.com www.cuesmith.com

The mounting ring is thick and can be bored out to fit your spindle should that be needed.
I installed one on my Porper cue lathe and it works great.


View attachment 601798
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Thanks I think I will go with your setup, probably have to bore though .What is your O.D. I think mine is 2.050 but I will make sure before boring. Thank you for your help and everyone else who chimed in.
 
tomatoetom said:
Thanks I think I will go with your setup, probably have to bore though .What is your O.D. I think mine is 2.050 but I will make sure before boring. Thank you for your help and everyone else who chimed in.
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Tom, my spindle is 1.773" but the adapter looks like it is large enough to fit over yours at 2.05".
Hightower dosent give the inside diameter of the mounting collar but I think it will fit your spindle as is.
 
Food for thought, I have found a rear chuck isnt the ideal setup for holding a shaft. the front chuck should be holding the cue on axis with the rear support only acting as a steady. If your rear chuck is not mounted perfectly concentric and on axis you will bend the shaft slightly and give you an illusion of being held perfect (you cant see what the middle of your shaft is doing because it is hidden by the spindle). When facing the joint face this becomes quite critical. IMO the better and simpler solution are colletts that fit in the end of the spindle. The rear chuck is just more convenient. Just for sh*ts and giggles chuck up a 1 foot bar sticking out your rear chuck and observe how much runout you have on the end. If you are going to use a rear chuck it almost has to be as accurate as your front chuck if you dont want to bend the parts you are putting in the lathe.
 
Canadian cue said:
Food for thought, I have found a rear chuck isnt the ideal setup for holding a shaft. the front chuck should be holding the cue on axis with the rear support only acting as a steady. If your rear chuck is not mounted perfectly concentric and on axis you will bend the shaft slightly and give you an illusion of being held perfect (you cant see what the middle of your shaft is doing because it is hidden by the spindle). When facing the joint face this becomes quite critical. IMO the better and simpler solution are colletts that fit in the end of the spindle. The rear chuck is just more convenient. Just for sh*ts and giggles chuck up a 1 foot bar sticking out your rear chuck and observe how much runout you have on the end. If you are going to use a rear chuck it almost has to be as accurate as your front chuck if you dont want to bend the parts you are putting in the lathe.
Click to expand...
It has to be indicated , absolutely .
It is ideal imo. Specially when tapping for radial threads .
Chuck a rubber sheet in the rear for more bite and damage prevention.
Gonna need it for carbon fiber shafts.
 
Thanks guys I went with Chris's adapter and chuck bored it now dialing it in. 003 out now but I think I can get closer.
 
When dialing in your chuck be sure to dial it in at two places. I would chuck up a piece of metal shaft and dial it in at the chuck and as far out as I could put my dial. The back of the chuck being mounted perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the spindle is just as important as concentricity.
 
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Canadian cue said:
When dialing in your chuck be sure to dial it in at two places. I would chuck up a piece of metal shaft and dial it in at the chuck and as far out as I could put my dial. The back of the chuck being mounted perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the spindle is just as important as concentricity.
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I've got the adapter to 1/2 thou and the rear chuck to .002 still working on it.
 
Canadian cue said:
Food for thought, I have found a rear chuck isnt the ideal setup for holding a shaft. the front chuck should be holding the cue on axis with the rear support only acting as a steady. If your rear chuck is not mounted perfectly concentric and on axis you will bend the shaft slightly and give you an illusion of being held perfect (you cant see what the middle of your shaft is doing because it is hidden by the spindle). When facing the joint face this becomes quite critical. IMO the better and simpler solution are colletts that fit in the end of the spindle. The rear chuck is just more convenient. Just for sh*ts and giggles chuck up a 1 foot bar sticking out your rear chuck and observe how much runout you have on the end. If you are going to use a rear chuck it almost has to be as accurate as your front chuck if you dont want to bend the parts you are putting in the lathe.
Click to expand...
If you are working on the joint of a shaft if your collets are accurate you don't even need a rear chuck.

Bob Dzuricky has a great video on this subject on you tube.
 
JC said:
If you are working on the joint of a shaft if your collets are accurate you don't even need a rear chuck.

Bob Dzuricky has a great video on this subject on you tube.
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When you are tapping with a radial tap, that extra grip the rear chuck gives you is a great help.
I even use flat blue tourniquet as "collet" in the rear chuck .
 
JoeyInCali said:
When you are tapping with a radial tap, that extra grip the rear chuck gives you is a great help.
I even use flat blue tourniquet as "collet" in the rear chuck .
Click to expand...
Agreed I use a leather strip for grip. If your collet at the main jaw is accurate and you have a good clamp on it your rear chuck being off a few thou won't matter. Which is why I get away with leather as it's not concentric but it grips.
 
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