BLACK ULTRA SKIN- WHAT GRIT SAND PAPER TO SAND THE GLUE-SIDE?????

Duane Remick

Duane Remick

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I HAVE USED 400 DRY-
BUT,
RECENTLY CHANGING MY TIP-
CUTTING OFF OLD TIP WITH UTILITY KNIFE-
THE TIP CAME OFF OF THE SHAFT CLEAN
LIKE THE GLUE REALLY DIDNT PENETRATE INTO THE LEATHER AT ALL
I USE LOCTITE ULTRA CONTROL GEL TIP- BLACK BOTTLE
WITH A TIP CENTERING TOOL ON A SMALL MACHINIST LATHE BTW
 
Im by no means a pro but I use 220, any heavier and it seems to soak up most of the glue. Guess how much glue you use could change that.

Another important factor I found out quick is make certain your sanding on flat surface.
 
I face off the ferrule to remove any old glue and make sure it is flat. Then I sand the tip on 220 on a flat surface. I put the tip in a tip centering tool and make sure it is 1) centered on the ferrule and 2)there are no gaps between the tip and the ferrule face.
I remove the tip and place a tiny drop of CA on the tip then smear that around on the face of the ferrule, making sure I have a very thin coating of CA on both the ferrule and the base of the tip. Use a paper towel to wipe off any glue that may have run to the bottom edge of the ferrule. Set the tip aside and let both surfaces dry. You can exhale hot breath onto the ferrule - the moisture in your breath will help set the CA faster.
Finally, I place the tip back in the tip centering tool, put a medium drop on the face of the ferrule and slowly turn the shaft in the chuck so that drop flattens out as you bring the tip into contact with the ferrule. I use a medium rubber band to hold the cross slide with the tip up against the ferrule. Be careful not to press too hard or you'll glue starve the tip-ferrule interface. Let that dry a few minutes, then trim the tip down to size.
HTH
Gary
 
GBCues said:
I face off the ferrule to remove any old glue and make sure it is flat. Then I sand the tip on 220 on a flat surface. I put the tip in a tip centering tool and make sure it is 1) centered on the ferrule and 2)there are no gaps between the tip and the ferrule face.
I remove the tip and place a tiny drop of CA on the tip then smear that around on the face of the ferrule, making sure I have a very thin coating of CA on both the ferrule and the base of the tip. Use a paper towel to wipe off any glue that may have run to the bottom edge of the ferrule. Set the tip aside and let both surfaces dry. You can exhale hot breath onto the ferrule - the moisture in your breath will help set the CA faster.
Finally, I place the tip back in the tip centering tool, put a medium drop on the face of the ferrule and slowly turn the shaft in the chuck so that drop flattens out as you bring the tip into contact with the ferrule. I use a medium rubber band to hold the cross slide with the tip up against the ferrule. Be careful not to press too hard or you'll glue starve the tip-ferrule interface. Let that dry a few minutes, then trim the tip down to size.
HTH
Gary
Click to expand...
I like using a "primer" coat of glue as well.
 
I use 120 to sand tips...................then treat them with thin CA..... hit it with kicker ..... and lightly sand ......... . never a problem.............
Kim
 
I used to use the coarse 100 grit paper or thereabouts. Now I pre glue/ prime the base of the tip with super glue. Rub tip lightly on 220 paper and then on 320 or 400 paper. The more flat the base of the tip is and and the smoother it is, between two surfaces is the best with the super glues. Like been said, too much pressure and the joint is then starved of glue. Make sure that when the ferrule is faced, that there is No centre pip from a tool that is not on the centreline. The glue wants to be fresh glue as well. Once it is over 3 months old from being opened, it does not bond as well as new glue. One year old glue is asking for issues. Old glue does still work well for sealing or priming the bottom of tips though. If the tip comes with the smooth plastic base, I just clean that with a degreaser/solvent to ensure it is very clean. Then just glue it to the ferrule or tip plate or what ever is there.
 
conetip said:
The glue wants to be fresh glue as well. Once it is over 3 months old from being opened, it does not bond as well as new glue. One year old glue is asking for issues. Old glue does still work well for sealing or priming the bottom of tips though.
Click to expand...
I can understand that CA glue is good for X number of weeks once opened. But how can we tell how long since the glue was made, or how long it has been sitting in a warehouse before being sold? I have an unopened bottle here for 2 years, is it useless now?
 
On the bottle somewhere is it's manufactured date and it's best use by date before opening. It deteriorates over time with it's bonding strength as well. Gluing Cue tips is at the upper end of adhesion strength required to glue cue tips onto cues. Refrigerated bottles will generally last longer than bottles just left on the shelf as well. The glue that is 2 years old should be ok for priming or sealing the base of tips, but as for longevity of gluing a tip on is a real gamble for sure.
 
I use adhesive backed 120 glued to a ground steel block to start,seal with Loctite Pro,then a couple swipes on 220 and wipe with denatured. Tommy D.
 
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