Shaft Wax

Biloxi Boy

Biloxi Boy

Man With A Golden Arm
For many years I have happily relied upon CueSilk to avoid using powder here in the swampy south. What's more, I have been evangelistic about its properties and converted hundreds. So why, now, would I consider shaft wax? Just looking for a fix where none is needed. I recently bought a can of McDermott's shaft wax, and so far, the results are disappointing. I have to wonder if CueSilk can be beat, but I am willing to reserve judgement until I determine how to properly apply the wax. How do ya'll apply it? What results should I expect?
 
Biloxi Boy said:
For many years I have happily relied upon CueSilk to avoid using powder here in the swampy south. What's more, I have been evangelistic about its properties and converted hundreds. So why, now, would I consider shaft wax? Just looking for a fix where none is needed. I recently bought a can of McDermott's shaft wax, and so far, the results are disappointing. I have to wonder if CueSilk can be beat, but I am willing to reserve judgement until I determine how to properly apply the wax. How do ya'll apply it? What results should I expect?
Click to expand...
I gave up on wax. I actually think the shaft drags more when in humid conditions.
I stick with CueDoctor shaft conditioner. Works very well

As a side note about CueSilk....

I found this review about CueSilk on Amazon. As a caveat, I dont believe everything I read, but could there be some truth to this....

"Save your money buy biosilk
Reviewed in the United States on October 24, 2019

This is just Biosilk . Like the women use in their hair they didn’t even try to mask the smell SMH".
🤔
 
Every wooden shaft should be waxed. Find one full of chalk,,,,,,,,, that one has no wax on it. The wax is to protect the wood, not keep your hands from sweating or getting dirty.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbb
I use QWax. Coat it good, let it sit til it hazes and buff the shit out of it. Works great. Was using Renaissance but i ran out and tried QWax. Happy so far.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbb
Get a vinyl fuel line about 3/4". Cut it in half down the middle. Apply wax (Q Wax) to your shaft. Fold a paper towel in half and lay it in the fuel line. Now rub the shaft up and down, squeezing the rubber tube / fuel line while doing so. You will generate enough heat to warm up the wax enough for it to get into the pores of the wood, thus sealing it better. Depending on the size of the fuel line or rubber tube, you can leave more than half to get a better grip.
This was my procedure when I was still shooting with wood shafts. Prior to this I would clean the shaft with a paper towel and Soft Scrub, again using the same rubber tube.
 
Last edited:
garczar said:
I use QWax. Coat it good, let it sit til it hazes and buff the shit out of it. Works great. Was using Renaissance but i ran out and tried QWax. Happy so far.
Click to expand...


I do same thing, after I apply I let sit 20-25 minutes before buffing.

I carry a piece of flannel in my Cue Case, in ziplock. I rub Qwax into cloth, it is nice to have if wax needs short term fix.
 
I am not sure the McDermott wax sets up. It is still "wet" after 6 hours if just left to sit, even under a fan. After 3-5 wipe downs it is "dry" but I do not think much wax attaches after 3-5 wipings while wet.

Anyone have any experience with the McD wax product?
 
The best cue wax I’ve ever used is made by Craftsman Cues in Bingham, England.
It is hard to get and pricey because of shipping. They aren’t interested in U.S.A.
distributors. Absent that wax, then go with Renaissance Wax. It protects your shafts.
 
Q Wax works for me. Just make sure the shaft is clean, and then just follow the directions.
 
Biloxi Boy said:
Is this it: "Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish"?

Exactly how do you apply it?
Click to expand...
Yes.

I just waxed my Tascarella shaft and Titlist conversion.

I rub it on in a very thin coat and let it dry for about 10 minutes and then I buff it out with a micro-fiber cloth.


836CCFE4-9017-4DB3-B1C9-389B513E731A.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbb
Cue Silk is a conditioner and sealer that lifts dirt and oil off your cue shaft and leaves it feeling silky smooth according to the manufacturer, however the application process is supposed to be 1 or 2 drops on a dry cloth rubbed into the wood. I doubt if there is much dirt and oil being removed in that process. Instead I would say if anything the small amount that is actually affected by the product is more likely just rubbed into the wood grain. Wax however, is a hard product in a usually petroleum type base and applied correctly to the point of feeling heat while working it in, will actually evaporate the liquid base in the wax and leave behind the hard wax shell on the shaft. Most people think rub it, let it haze. wipe it off, but that is not the best method. A properly waxed shaft will stay slick and clean easily with a dry terry cloth.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbb
Bavafongoul said:
The best cue wax I’ve ever used is made by Craftsman Cues in Bingham, England.
It is hard to get and pricey because of shipping. They aren’t interested in U.S.A.
distributors. Absent that wax, then go with Renaissance Wax. It protects your shafts.
Click to expand...
I have been using Qwax but ordered a couple of tins of the Craftsman. Interested in seeing how they compare.
 
HawaiianEye said:
Yes.

I just waxed my Tascarella shaft and Titlist conversion.

I rub it on in a very thin coat and let it dry for about 10 minutes and then I buff it out with a micro-fiber cloth.


View attachment 625204
Click to expand...
I never let it sit that long. It starts setting up real quick. If it sits too long it gets real hard and almost impossible to buff. My buddy refinishes guitars/violins and he said to wait 2-3min mx before buffing and that's what i did. Multiple thin coats. Amazing stuff.. I'll probably re-order when QWax is gone.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top