Dr. Dave Chalk shootout😃

The_JV said:
Thanks for addressing my inquiry Boogie.

I would really like some reality based theory on this less mess claim. The way I understand this, is that merely that less chalk is loaded up on the tip duration application. Is the Taom product harder/drier than something like Masters..?

If equal amounts of chalk is placed on a tip, then unless the Taom chalk somehow adheres to the tip better, then equalivent chalk wiill be sent flying across the playing surface. Now maybe the Taom chalk is inherently drier so it doesn't possess the characteristic to stick to a CB...? However that doesn't translate to less mess overal. Just less mess on the CB. Also the lighter colour of the V10 would be more difficult to see on hands/cloth/ferrule, etc...

So unless we have less chalk to begin with, or we chalk less for whatever reason, then I struggle with how we make less mess in general. Does the Taom product atomize during contact...?

Maybe it's a harder chalk with smaller grain structure...?
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Using this it feels less gritty and there is moisture of some sort in this chalk for sure. I wear a black glove and have a black shaft. Could def see the masters dust that was not sticking on the tip go onto my shaft and glove when applying. Not as huge of a deal as some have made it seem. I have never had chalk all over the floor/hand etc. Masters and others are dry this stuff is not rather than grinding this into your tip your painting it on. Taom V10 has VERY good adhesion properties and seems to very fine in composition. I don't notice any on my shaft or my glove when applying. I agree at some point it has to go somewhere onto the cloth. I have only used this for a day so time will tell how it builds up and feels on the cloth, but Taom definitely has something here with their V10 this is not just marketing BS.
 
Nyquil said:
Using this it feels less gritty and there is moisture of some sort in this chalk for sure.
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The moisture comment jumped out at me. I know that the triangle chalk I use changes drastically depending on the time of year. Winter months it's very powdery. Summer months, more like a thin paste. I prefer the later.
 
easy-e said:
There is cheaper chalk than Masters, why don't you use that?
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Cheapest Chalk is the piece they give you at the pool room, for free, at Pool room, asking for a piece of Chalk.
The_JV said:
The moisture comment jumped out at me. I know that the triangle chalk I use changes drastically depending on the time of year. Winter months it's very powdery. Summer months, more like a thin paste. I prefer the later.
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Down in valley of sun if you want to dry out chalk, June when it hits outside/dry heat is time.
 
I can’t believe I read through 14 pages of this, one sitting. I set out with a goal, and I achieved it.

If I still had a table at home (😭) I would try this V10 no doubt.

People chalk differently, even among those who know how to chalk lol.

I’ve never been a driller, but I do ponder-chalk. So if I have a tough situation I might stand there and absentmindedly rub chalk on my tip for 20-30 seconds. Not non-stop but enough that I’m creating a powdery mess somewhere.

I often have my cue running up the middle of my bridge hand, my pinky and ring finger holding the shaft still, my other three digits are holding the chalk and scraping back and forth.

All that dust drops into your palm in that scenario. Some will slip past onto the floor or onto the rail if you don’t purposely turn away from the table to chalk.

I don’t know how V10 would do in this situation but some people on here seem to think there’s just no way to get chalk dust to accumulate to noticeable levels. That’s one way to do it fo’sho.

Buy some taom V10. If you don’t feel like it was worth it send it my way
 
JazzyJeff87 said:
I often have my cue running up the middle of my bridge hand, my pinky and ring finger holding the shaft still, my other three digits are holding the chalk and scraping back and forth.

All that dust drops into your palm in that scenario. Some will slip past onto the floor or onto the rail if you don’t purposely turn away from the table to chalk.
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I've always wondered how much chalk dust accumulates in the palm with that method of chalking. Usually see a lot of American pool player do it. Must be a nightmare if the chalk is as messy as hell.

I do the typical English pool/snooker chalk. Cue held in the bridge hand just below the ferrule, cue butt on the floor and swipe across the tip two or three times with your cue hand.
 
Greg M I do that as well sometimes but far less often.

Thinking about it I do the snooker chalk when I’m mad about my position I left myself. I set the butt down and give a few angry swipes. A minor release of stress. Then I revert to my natural chalking while thinking about what to do.
 
I think a benefit of the snooker chalk is that you're looking at the tip at the same time as you're chalking, so you can see if you're getting an even coating and not missing any spots.
 
Day two playing with the Taom V10. It appears it has dried out a little (likely due temperature acclimation and the dry climate I live in). I did see some fine chalk falling off from the tip when applying tonight. I am still not seeing it show up on cue ball or on the cloth. I haven't wiped my cue ball down once. This is a big change for me from the masters I was using. After a month or so I will report back if there is anything else to say. Since this stuff is really soft in application I am interested to see how long this lasts. As far an intended buyers in my opinion if you mainly play in pool halls etc I wouldn't buy this unless you simply have to play with the best. The balls/cloth will likely be dirty and your opponent will very likely be playing with another chalk that is no were near as clean like the V10 is. I think this product really shines for people that own their own tables. I paid $28.00 thru Amazon prime. I would recommend buying it there since you can return it free thru prime if you don't like it. I have a feeling though if you buy it your other chalk is going to collect dust.

Brent
 
sos911 said:
but its chalk .... i have played entire games of nineball with only 1 chalking with masters.
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When I play with kamui I only chalk once between racks. Well the last cube I had is finally shot so I‘ve been using predator which I really don’t think is much different then master and I’m still only chalking once between racks and I’ve seen no difference. I haven’t miscued At all. I guess for that makes the chalk war kind of nonsense but use what you like.
 
trob said:
When I play with kamui I only chalk once between racks. Well the last cube I had is finally shot so I‘ve been using predator which I really don’t think is much different then master and I’m still only chalking once between racks and I’ve seen no difference. I haven’t miscued At all. I guess for that makes the chalk war kind of nonsense but use what you like.
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Everyone has their preferences to each their own. What matters to me is how clean the chalk is. This is where the V10 is king. I thought people that bought high end chalk were nuts until I read about the hygiene differences between Taom and others. I was starting to get chalk embedded in my pocket liners and return tracks. Not the easiest areas to clean out on a pro am. My cloth was also really gritty after a few sessions and I was having to vacuum a lot which is annoying. I had some skids with masters none so far with the Taom V10. I am chalking now almost every shot where before I didn't want to do this due to the cue ball mess and would go a full rack of 9 before chalking fairly often. I have noticed I am getting more consistent hits and can draw the cue ball back a bit more. I am really impressed I can do a hard screw shot and still end up with no visible chalk marks on the cue ball.
 
Nyquil said:
Using this it feels less gritty and there is moisture of some sort in this chalk for sure. I wear a black glove and have a black shaft. Could def see the masters dust that was not sticking on the tip go onto my shaft and glove when applying. Not as huge of a deal as some have made it seem. I have never had chalk all over the floor/hand etc. Masters and others are dry this stuff is not rather than grinding this into your tip your painting it on. Taom V10 has VERY good adhesion properties and seems to very fine in composition. I don't notice any on my shaft or my glove when applying. I agree at some point it has to go somewhere onto the cloth. I have only used this for a day so time will tell how it builds up and feels on the cloth, but Taom definitely has something here with their V10 this is not just marketing BS.
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Try spitting in your opponent’s chalk to gain an advantage.
 
Nyquil said:
Thanks for the feedback. I paid a few $ extra to go thru Amazon prime for convenience and just in case I don't like it I can return. I wanted the V10 since it's the newest formulation but I was turned off by the color of chalk. Do you see any green at all on the cloth? That would drive me absolutely bonkers on my tournament blue table
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I do not see any chalk residue on my cloth. If I really chalk up the tip I get a small spot on the cue ball and that is why I suggested a very light painting on the tip. Seyberts has some V10 as of last week.
 
sonoman said:
I do not see any chalk residue on my cloth. If I really chalk up the tip I get a small spot on the cue ball and that is why I suggested a very light painting on the tip. Seyberts has some V10 as of last week.
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Not anymore ... i went around and bought all the TAOM and now holding it hostage
 
boogieman said:
Pyro is great and V10 is better. V10 seems to be a bit cleaner. With pyro, you would occasionally (barely ever) get tiny flakes of chalk on the cloth. It's almost as if at times (like a wildly struck miscue) the chalk bunched up. Think of a small tear from hitting a piece of saran wrap on a solid surface with a hammer. It's excellent chalk and played very well but the tip looked odd if you wildly struck it enough to glaze a tip. The tip didn't glaze, but the chalk peeled up. Think of silly putty, it breaks if you pull it too fast.

V10 is basically nothing like that. It plays great and there's no "tearing" or whatever you would call it. Just super consistent coating that is also very clean. No "chalk clouds" like you see on most chalk at break speed. To me, V10 feels more like what you would expect of a classic chalk, but much better grit consistency and it stays on the tip.

The green color isn't an issue on blue cloth because it really doesn't get on there like with other chalks. It's lightning in a bottle as far as I'm concerned regarding chalk. You can do the same thing with a 50 cent cube, but it's much cleaner and much more consistent. One less thing to think about. I won't ever talk badly about Master, it's fine chalk. I have had different batches or different humidity levels in the room make it coat a bit differently. It still worked fine, but again, it's messy.

The only chalk I'll talk bad about is a cube of Sportscraft I tried. That stuff is garbage. Silvercup is OK if you need it to match a cloth color, but it's worse than Master and the same price.
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I use Silver Cup because it pretty much exactly matches the color of my (green) felt - it is good chalk.
 
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