I prefer the bridge off the rail. When I follow through with a closed bridge the shaft taper doesn't feel right going through the closed fingers. As the diameter increases I feel like it tightens up and it messes with the flow of things.
Breaking off the headstring vs breaking further back with a rail bridge for 8-9–10 ball?
- Thread starter ChrisinNC
- Start date
I break from the side rail (9-ball), the back rail (10 and 8-ball) because in the 52 years I've been playing pool, I have never found a closed bridge I've felt comfortable with, and I don't think an open bridge would suffice for hard breaking.
Except for a few years of seriously trying to improve I have spent my time playing pool for the pure enjoyment of playing the game. During those few years I practiced every variation of the break possible and no matter what I tried I just couldn’t master an off the rail break.
9 ball - side rail
8 ball - head string for foot spot aim, or side rail for second ball (dependant on table)
10 ball - head string only
I control the vertical arcing path of the CB with bridge height. <--That is done in 9ball by bringing the ball closer to the side rail.
On occassion when I'm feeling silly. I'll break from the top rail. This is when it's all about comedic swing/power and a mere hope of it staying on the table...lol
8 ball - head string for foot spot aim, or side rail for second ball (dependant on table)
10 ball - head string only
I control the vertical arcing path of the CB with bridge height. <--That is done in 9ball by bringing the ball closer to the side rail.
On occassion when I'm feeling silly. I'll break from the top rail. This is when it's all about comedic swing/power and a mere hope of it staying on the table...lol
I think you're on the money here.
A couple things I have noticed that are exaggerated on a 7ft compared to a 9ft table.
When you bridge on the table the stick is slightly elevated. That makes the cb jump a little. If you hit the break dead on most of the time it hops up and lands in the middle of the table. Just like a lot of good players and pros do.
When you break from the back rail your stick can be more level at contact. Even if it's only a few degrees closer to flat. The goal is to have the cb not hop after contact more than a couple inches.
Not because of hitting soft, this is a break where you hit it pretty hard.
Both breaks work fine. The big advantage to the off the rail break is when you get the timing down and his mis hit the rack a little the cb won't fly off the table nearly as much.
I always look for the lines on a new table to see where people are breaking from so if my break isn't working I will move it around if needed.
However, I disagree about the level cue on the back rail. See my amazing scientific drawing below
I wonder if people break from the line on a 9ft and the rail on a 7ft to keep the same, or close, distance from the CB to the head ball so they can keep the bounce the same?
Nobody breaks with the cue ball 2-1/2 inches off the end rail which is what your top diagram shows. Even in the bottom diagram, the cue ball is still only 7 inches off the back rail. Most players that break with their bridge hand on the end rail set the cue ball 9-11 inches off the rail.I always look for the lines on a new table to see where people are breaking from so if my break isn't working I will move it around if needed.
However, I disagree about the level cue on the back rail. See my amazing scientific drawing below
I wonder if people break from the line on a 9ft and the rail on a 7ft to keep the same, or close, distance from the CB to the head ball so they can keep the bounce the same?
View attachment 638410
LOL, surely, you didn't think that was to scale?
The physics stand, you can't change that.
I hear what you are saying, if you break with a bridge on the table the stick won't be on the rail. It will be elevated a little.
Just saying
I always look for the lines on a new table to see where people are breaking from so if my break isn't working I will move it around if needed.
However, I disagree about the level cue on the back rail. See my amazing scientific drawing below
I wonder if people break from the line on a 9ft and the rail on a 7ft to keep the same, or close, distance from the CB to the head ball so they can keep the bounce the same?
View attachment 638410
Bingo! The distance between the cueball and headball from back rail on a 7ft is roughly the same distance on a 9ft if cueball is at the headstring. This is very important for timing and consistency if you're playing on these two tables regularly.
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Your topvisualization has the ball too close to the rail.. you need to move it forward a little bit. In fact, I'd have drawn it more like the bottom.I always look for the lines on a new table to see where people are breaking from so if my break isn't working I will move it around if needed.
However, I disagree about the level cue on the back rail. See my amazing scientific drawing below
I wonder if people break from the line on a 9ft and the rail on a 7ft to keep the same, or close, distance from the CB to the head ball so they can keep the bounce the same?
View attachment 638410
and an image like the lower does not show where the player's back hand strikes the rail!
My optimal distance has the cb just touching 1st diamond line from the head rail side.
As if anyone asked...again.
I purposefully put it that close to the rail to show the affect of how the cue angle changes as the ball is moved towards/away from the rail. Point being - even if the ball is only moved back an inch, the cue will be limited in how flat it can address the ball. Maybe Dr. Dave should make a video
I will also add that, does this make any noticeable difference in a break, I don't know. I put my CB about 9" from the rail and I can't remember the last time I've knocked it off the table when breaking.