soyale
Well-known member
hello all,
first of all, i just want to say i've done tons of research on here and appreciate so much that y'all are willing to share your knowledge the way that you do.
secondly, from that research, i've deduced that i do not have the time or the budget to do this "properly."
third, i'm just talking about a piddly little 8" extension made from a lowe's dowel. its for personal use on my production cue with a diy plug and tap job.
okay, so.
rigging my drill to my bench vise and using a clamp to regulate the trigger speed, i brushed on some triplethick polyurethane and let it spin and dry for a while. realizing that my brush marks had completely ruined the extension i've been working on for months, i tried wiping it on. that seemed better. however, i'd ruined it. so i try sanding it down. that actually made it look fine! nice smooth even poly finish all over. but i overdid it and got some of the poly to peel up toward the top end. after rubbing it with vinegar and peeling away for a while i went to bed.
woke up this morning and just roasted it with 60 grit until the poly was gone. marred it good, used 220 to get it mostly back to smooth. luckily i had left the extension a bit large so its probably flush or close to flush with my cue at this point.
i dont want to do the polyurethane again, not because i don't think it will work fine and serve the purpose, but because if i end up peeling a little piece up again i'll end up tossing this thing out of the window.
so, eluding back to the research i've done on this site, all the prepwork that it takes to get a proper clear coat makes it pretty obvious that you can't just spray on a clear acrylic to bare wood and get a good result that you can sell.
buuuuuuut can somebody explain to me why? like, what happens, if you spin a dowel, and spray it with clear coat over and over again?
again, this is for my own personal use and will probably not look great in the end. i could just leave it unfinished and it would serve its purpose just fine. so any clear coating at all is going to be a benefit as long as i don't make it worse, or sticky.
and yes, down the road, when i have the money and time to dump into this, i'd like to go through all the proper channels and make something proper. i have an 8" bocote round sitting right here that i could have used for this but decided a lowes dowel would suffice, considering.
if all of this slackassed shortcutting talk didn't send you running yet, would you care to give your 2c on spraying acrylic to bare wood?
first of all, i just want to say i've done tons of research on here and appreciate so much that y'all are willing to share your knowledge the way that you do.
secondly, from that research, i've deduced that i do not have the time or the budget to do this "properly."
third, i'm just talking about a piddly little 8" extension made from a lowe's dowel. its for personal use on my production cue with a diy plug and tap job.
okay, so.
rigging my drill to my bench vise and using a clamp to regulate the trigger speed, i brushed on some triplethick polyurethane and let it spin and dry for a while. realizing that my brush marks had completely ruined the extension i've been working on for months, i tried wiping it on. that seemed better. however, i'd ruined it. so i try sanding it down. that actually made it look fine! nice smooth even poly finish all over. but i overdid it and got some of the poly to peel up toward the top end. after rubbing it with vinegar and peeling away for a while i went to bed.
woke up this morning and just roasted it with 60 grit until the poly was gone. marred it good, used 220 to get it mostly back to smooth. luckily i had left the extension a bit large so its probably flush or close to flush with my cue at this point.
i dont want to do the polyurethane again, not because i don't think it will work fine and serve the purpose, but because if i end up peeling a little piece up again i'll end up tossing this thing out of the window.
so, eluding back to the research i've done on this site, all the prepwork that it takes to get a proper clear coat makes it pretty obvious that you can't just spray on a clear acrylic to bare wood and get a good result that you can sell.
buuuuuuut can somebody explain to me why? like, what happens, if you spin a dowel, and spray it with clear coat over and over again?
again, this is for my own personal use and will probably not look great in the end. i could just leave it unfinished and it would serve its purpose just fine. so any clear coating at all is going to be a benefit as long as i don't make it worse, or sticky.
and yes, down the road, when i have the money and time to dump into this, i'd like to go through all the proper channels and make something proper. i have an 8" bocote round sitting right here that i could have used for this but decided a lowes dowel would suffice, considering.
if all of this slackassed shortcutting talk didn't send you running yet, would you care to give your 2c on spraying acrylic to bare wood?
