Eeeeyup.
Adjusting from LD shaft to solid maple shaft.
- Thread starter TheDirtyBird
- Start date
You grew by 8. Settle down.
If you know how to play a damn house cue will do the job. Pool is pool and nothing more. Put the time on the table and if you’re not running 3 packs within 5 years take up table tennis because pool is definitely not your game.
5 yr old post, maybe he may be doing that now LOL It takes a lot of work to run 3 racks even for those playing for 5 years. I know people that play for tens of years and can barely make 3 balls consistently.
Sandbagging is more fun. Pool is less fun when people have a target on their back.
Here is how I see it. One can get used to anything given long enough. Yeah, they are expensive and in my opinion most are not worth it.
When comes to LD size of the table matters on 7ft not so much but on 9ft table it can make a lot of difference.
In general:
Less deflection makes it easier to apply English, thus it is easier on newer players, and it is easier on intermediate players even more.
It is easier to switch to LD then the other way around.
There is only a handful CF shafts that match the least deflecting wooden shafts, so most of CF shafts are actually worse in that department.
Energy transfer is a huge thing with most CF shafts but some are more powerful than others.
Whatever works for you. But 11 cues in 2 years seems excessive.
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Yeah that is a lot of cues. For 2 years of playing! Can't see how you can play enough, to get use to any one of those, especially if some shafts are wildly different from each other.
Wolven in your experience with CF what do the most expensive shafts compare to the lower end stuff that's out there?
Wolven in your experience with CF what do the most expensive shafts compare to the lower end stuff that's out there?
when you say "least deflecting wooden shafts" do you mean like predator z3 or ob 1+ or mezz 700/900??
also
could you name the "handfull" of cf shafts that match them and comment which ones might be even lower deflection?
I’ve been playing for over 40 years.
I’m not the greatest player-by champion standards, but I’m good. Not great.
I’ve been lucky enough to play with just about everything over the years.
For me, I’m very cue sensitive. Something I wish wasn’t the case. If a cue isn’t just right it has a huge impact on my game. Some guys can adjust and play good with anything. I’m the opposite. When a cue works for me-it works well.
Having said that when LD shafts came out, I tried one, two, three etc. I never played with one that I could make work better than a regular maple shaft with a ivory ferrel. There’s a few things I can do better with a LD shaft, but overall those few things are way less than the benefits of a regular shaft.
Reason is most likely because I played with hi deflection cues for 20 years.
Having only played 2 ½ years your just starting out. I was on my first cue for 3 years before I switched cues. The 2nd cue I played with for about 3 years full time with. I tried other cues from friends etc. but didn’t go buy everything.
Learning to play is most important, the ability to figure out what works best for you is really only answered after you learn to play. Chasing cues now is imo the wrong idea/
Play with what ever feels best-learn to play, then your original question will answer itself.
Experience is the best teacher, not advertising.
Good luck
Fatboy
MajorMiscue
Democat
I don’t have a clue. I just play. I don’t know much about all those systems. I never took the time to learn about that stuff.
Sorry
i am with you, Fatty, all this nonsence in the commenents,you would think if someone saw a player put snot on his tip to burnish it ,,,,, the whole gang would get on board. seems like alot of tincup players here. i dont have a clue, i just play.I don’t have a clue. I just play. I don’t know much about all those systems. I never took the time to learn about that stuff.
Sorry
MajorMiscue
Democat
@Fatboy, when you apply english do you move your back hand to address the cb (BHE) or do you move the entire cue to parallel your center cb position to apply english.I don’t have a clue. I just play. I don’t know much about all those systems. I never took the time to learn about that stuff.
Sorry
Sure, why not. We can argue about it but whatever.
Wooden Shafts in bold, I have or had, but all those I have played with exception of all the OB + shafts.
I had a few other less popular LD shafts from Lambros, Anwar, Lucasi, TNT or something like that, end few others.
1. Z3, Z2, OB2, OB2+, WD/WX900 least deflecting shafts
2. 314-2......314-3, OB-1, OB-1+?, just a tad worse WX/WD 700
3. OB Classic, OB + Classic?
Too me anything below WD700 is just not in the LD category.
Mind you I don't like to play with skinny shafts so I'm willing to accept extra squirt.
As for CF. All 3 Revo shafts are in category by itself with Mezz Ignite close to it.
Revo 11.8 would be in the z3 category
Revo12.4 and 12.9 , and Ignite (limited exposure)
314-2, 314-3
If you take WX700 as bottom of my cutoff for LD, you can then dump CF shafts:
Cynergy, Jacoby, XLR8
Koneley/Flower
How would you rank them?
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Depends on the shot
"Parallel" english only works when it produces just enough swerve to counteract the exact amount of squirt involved (i.e., not very often). When players think they use it, they're usually applying "squerve" correction subconsciously.
pj
chgo
no argument from me.....i thought you gave a great review.....Sure, why not. We can argue about it but whatever.
Wooden Shafts in bold, I have or had, but all those I have played with exception of all the OB + shafts.
I had a few other less popular LD shafts from Lambros, Anwar, Lucasi, TNT or something like that, end few others.
1. Z3, Z2, OB2, OB2+, WD/WX900 least deflecting shafts
2. 314-2......314-3, OB-1, OB-1+?, just a tad worse WX/WD 700
3. OB Classic, OB + Classic?
Too me anything below WD700 is just not in the LD category.
Mind you I don't like to play with skinny shafts so I'm willing to accept extra squirt.
As for CF. All 3 Revo shafts are in category by itself with Mezz Ignite close to it.
Revo 11.8 would be in the z3 category
Revo12.4 and 12.9 , and Ignite (limited exposure)
314-2, 314-3
If you take WX700 as bottom of my cutoff for LD, you can then dump CF shafts:
Cynergy, Jacoby, XLR8
Koneley/Flower
How would you rank them?
i agree the wx/wd 700 had more deflection that the 900
as i recall since its been a while the ob 1 and ob 1+ (my players prior to switching to revo)
had less deflection than the 700
i never tried the z series or 314 series so i can not comment
since its been so long since i have used the wood ld shafts i cant compare them really to the other cf shafts i tried that did have more deflection than the revo...ie ..cynergy/jacoby// midwest something i dont remember the name of the company worth the price tho
Thanks. Our impressions are very similar.no argument from me.....i thought you gave a great review.....
i agree the wx/wd 700 had more deflection that the 900
as i recall since its been a while the ob 1 and ob 1+ (my players prior to switching to revo)
had less deflection than the 700
i never tried the z series or 314 series so i can not comment
since its been so long since i have used the wood ld shafts i cant compare them really to the other cf shafts i tried that did have more deflection than the revo...ie ..cynergy/jacoby// midwest something i dont remember the name of the company worth the price tho
Long time ago, I found it difficult to play with z shaft, odds are I could play with skinny shaft now, but don't feel like switching.
314-2 and OB1 basically were the same, just a different feel to the shot, with OB-1 being soft and quiet.
314-3 is similar to those 2 shafts, except when you hit hard the LD is worse than 314-2/OB1. I would say WD/WX700 is closer to 314-3 than 314-2.
I can switch between all those shafts without too much trouble, but 314-2 is my choice of the shaft, way better than 314-3.
Revo requires adjustment going from 314-3. Very significant adjustment but it does make the game easier.
Although, rail shots are easier with 314-3. Revo is less forgiving as it transfers way more energy.
Revo is more consistent when applying spin. Difference in squirt between hard and medium power shots is not as drastically different as with 314-3.
It is like switching from minivan to a sports car.
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I `do not have the Precision of your feel for,the different shafts
or your experience with them
so thank you for
your analysis
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I do both.
Depending on the shot.
I just don’t know all the names of all these micro adjustments(yes I know they do matter a lot) I’ve played enough pool at a high enough level over 30 years of being a player to understand their importance.
There’s only a few inside English banks to control the CB and make the bank in 1P that I struggle with(I can make the bank and leave a bad CB or get the CB good and miss the bank) controlling both balls is hard for me-on a few shots.
Most anything else I can do. I have a solid stroke and fundamentals. Which I always work to improve when I’m playing.
I just haven’t studied the words much for those adjustments, same as aiming systems. I’ve read posts and am familiar with some of the words. But I’m a feel player-I mentioned that the other day.
Same with a cue. How I get down in the ball depends on the shot and where I want the white ball to end up. Or how much white ball I’m playing or how much OB I’m playing. Cinching the $ ball and playing to lock someone up in 1P can be the same shot hit 2 very different ways. Add in equipment variables, cloth, old/new, wet/dry etc. it all changes how I’m going to approach a shot sometimes. Other times it doesn’t.
To me what’s most important is being able to hit the CB EXACTLY where you intend to hit it. So it doesn’t go off line. Purity
Best
Fatboy<———simple, pure pool, loves Buddy Hall style pool
This is sound advice from Eric. Anyone thinking of messing around with different cues. It's easy to forget thay all will take certain adjustments,the shaft is toughest part to get right. I never used LD or CF. Its only ever been old style.I’ve been playing for over 40 years.
I’m not the greatest player-by champion standards, but I’m good. Not great.
I’ve been lucky enough to play with just about everything over the years.
For me, I’m very cue sensitive. Something I wish wasn’t the case. If a cue isn’t just right it has a huge impact on my game. Some guys can adjust and play good with anything. I’m the opposite. When a cue works for me-it works well.
Having said that when LD shafts came out, I tried one, two, three etc. I never played with one that I could make work better than a regular maple shaft with a ivory ferrel. There’s a few things I can do better with a LD shaft, but overall those few things are way less than the benefits of a regular shaft.
Reason is most likely because I played with hi deflection cues for 20 years.
Having only played 2 ½ years your just starting out. I was on my first cue for 3 years before I switched cues. The 2nd cue I played with for about 3 years full time with. I tried other cues from friends etc. but didn’t go buy everything.
Learning to play is most important, the ability to figure out what works best for you is really only answered after you learn to play. Chasing cues now is imo the wrong idea/
Play with what ever feels best-learn to play, then your original question will answer itself.
Experience is the best teacher, not advertising.
Good luck
Fatboy
I wouldn't want to risk, the last 20 plus years of playing from a young age. Just because someone tells me, this new shaft is is the next best thing. And Im going play incredible.
I play an awful lot of pool. And It's always Interesting when your playing someone you know has spent a small fortune on equipment. And your still streets ahead of them.