Adjusting from LD shaft to solid maple shaft.

I don’t have a clue. I just play. I don’t know much about all those systems. I never took the time to learn about that stuff.

Sorry 😔
I'm with you. I just play too. How you see the last layout. Your aiming, everything comes with experience if you play enough.i work a lot with other players too. It's more about your application and dedication.
 
This is sound advice from Eric. Anyone thinking of messing around with different cues. It's easy to forget thay all will take certain adjustments,the shaft is toughest part to get right. I never used LD or CF. Its only ever been old style.
I wouldn't want to risk, the last 20 plus years of playing from a young age. Just because someone tells me, this new shaft is is the next best thing. And Im going play incredible.
I play an awful lot of pool. And It's always Interesting when your playing someone you know has spent a small fortune on equipment. And your still streets ahead of them.
The shaft is absolutely the most difficult part of a cue to get right. And balance being 2nd. Tapers, weight and diameters are the easier part of a cue.

Took a long time to learn this. Back in the day people didn’t share this stuff. Now everything is out in the open.

Best
Fatboy
 
Yeah that is a lot of cues. For 2 years of playing! Can't see how you can play enough, to get use to any one of those, especially if some shafts are wildly different from each other.

Wolven in your experience with CF what do the most expensive shafts compare to the lower end stuff that's out there?
I missed your post. To answer your question mostly LD, but couple felt dead too.

I just want to say that I gave a super low LD carbon fiber shaft a go. It felt amazing, the power was incredible.
You really would have to take a few shots to see the difference. My normal shaft feels dead in comparison.
Still needed to compensate for squirt but a lot less.

I had trouble with some rail shots, and was not running as many racks. Black color of the shaft was a minus.

I gave up on it because I didn't want to waste the stored memory of all the shots. I got scared it would ruin my game.
And most of all I had to restrict my stroke. The shaft was really changing my stroke. Bloody rail shots.
 
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I've been playing pool for about 2 1/2 years now. I'm not the greatest player, but I'm trying to get better. I only play APA, and I'm a 5 in 8-ball and a 6 in 9-ball. I've gone through several cues in the past couple years (11 to be exact. lol) trying to find the cue that I feel is for me. My first was a Poison Black Widow that I wanted so my wife got it for Christmas. From there I've owned a Viking, 3 Lucasis, 3 Predators, a Jacoby, a Schon, and now I have a Pechauer. Almost all of them I had a low deflection shaft with except for the Jacoby came with a solid maple shaft, though I was quick to buy a predator shaft for it and never took the time to play with the maple shaft. I did however like the feel of the solid shaft when I did hit with it a few times. It felt a lot better and more solid with better feedback than all the low deflection shafts. I'm in the process of purchasing a Diveney Sneaky Pete and plan on making it my primary shooter. A friend of mine has a Diveney cue and I love it. It hits and feels amazing. My big concern is teaching myself to adjust to the added deflection that is going to come with a solid shaft. Anyone else go from LD to solid maple? How long did it take to adjust your game and aiming? I know it will be different for everyone, just wanting to get some opinions and feedback.
I don't think you will any issues adjusting to be honest. If you know your exact preferred specs you like diameter, feel, length, taper etc from your previous production cue purchases you should end up really happy. Just consistently play only with that one cue and don't alternate in matches and most practice sessions. Deflection is really overhyped at the end of the day but you will notice some differences, especially with custom wood shafts vs carbon productions.
 
How?

pj <- skeptical
chgo
Learning the curves associated with different spins and speeds allows easier access to minor masse effects getting around edges of balls, or slightly altering angle of attack on a bank shot creating lines you don't initially have access to..

And yes I have heard the schpiel that the plywood can create the same lines but it is a much more convoluted process that requires entirely reassessing the shot.. where as solid maple.. little more low right bring my backhand up an inch and now the ball isn't in the way anymore...

I have an English mastery straight line drill that I do... I have shown it to the plywood faithful and most can't do it. Despite its premise is entirely based upon the bill of goods sold by the plywood manufacturer.

You can either deliver a spinning ball accurately to a specific point on the table or you cannot. That skill is acquired not purchased and those that aquire it with a traditional shaft have more tools in their box that those who aquire it otherwise.
 
I've been playing pool for about 2 1/2 years now. I'm not the greatest player, but I'm trying to get better. I only play APA, and I'm a 5 in 8-ball and a 6 in 9-ball. I've gone through several cues in the past couple years (11 to be exact. lol) trying to find the cue that I feel is for me. My first was a Poison Black Widow that I wanted so my wife got it for Christmas. From there I've owned a Viking, 3 Lucasis, 3 Predators, a Jacoby, a Schon, and now I have a Pechauer. Almost all of them I had a low deflection shaft with except for the Jacoby came with a solid maple shaft, though I was quick to buy a predator shaft for it and never took the time to play with the maple shaft. I did however like the feel of the solid shaft when I did hit with it a few times. It felt a lot better and more solid with better feedback than all the low deflection shafts. I'm in the process of purchasing a Diveney Sneaky Pete and plan on making it my primary shooter. A friend of mine has a Diveney cue and I love it. It hits and feels amazing. My big concern is teaching myself to adjust to the added deflection that is going to come with a solid shaft. Anyone else go from LD to solid maple? How long did it take to adjust your game and aiming? I know it will be different for everyone, just wanting to get some opinions and feedback.
You could have me make you a low deflection shaft for it. I designed a low deflection shaft that has the feel of a solid shaft and the LD equivalent of like a 314-2...

Jaden
 
I've heard from an excellent player saying in his opinion that CF shafts vs. maple shafts makes it hard to do masses with C/F shafts. But I've watched Florian "Venom" Kohler doing wild masses with a carbon fiber shaft and his maple shaft. Just curious what others think. I'm wondering where to get a "masse" shaft for my jump cue. However, I did notice holes in Kohler's felt on his table!!

Here is a video:
 
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Squirt is useful.
Learning the curves associated with different spins and speeds allows easier access to minor masse effects getting around edges of balls, or slightly altering angle of attack on a bank shot creating lines you don't initially have access to..
You don't need squirt for any of that - with a no-squirt cue you could just angle your shot to duplicate the squirt angle.

Squirt does nothing useful - just adds aiming difficulty.

pj
chgo
 
You don't need squirt for any of that - with a no-squirt cue you could just angle your shot to duplicate the squirt angle.

Squirt does nothing useful - just adds aiming difficulty.

pj
chgo
I'd love to see your collection of low deflection masse cues...... what's that?? they don't make those?? wonder why not...

could it be that squirt is the entire trick???

maybe?

perhaps the "any shot" in the marketing has a limit??
 
Probably for the same reason LD cues don't jump well - i.e., low end mass.


No, it couldn't. What do you think squirt does that simply changing your aim can't do?

pj
chgo
end mass to low to do what?

squrve is composed of squirt and swerve... and swerve can only bend so far.. so how do you move the swerve starting point??

squirt is useful
 
squrve is composed of squirt and swerve... and swerve can only bend so far.. so how do you move the swerve starting point??
1. Aim the shot the direction you want it to start off in (to the side of whatever's in the way).
2. Add the side spin and cue elevation needed to produce the end path of the masse curve (see Coriolis for how to do that).
3. Hit the shot as hard as needed to start the swerve where you want (i.e., hard enough to go almost straight that far).

In other words, aim (not squirt), side spin (not squirt) and shot speed (not squirt). Although squirt is minimal in masse shots, eliminating it would still make them easier, not harder.

pj
chgo
 
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1. Aim the shot the direction you want it to start off in (to the side of whatever's in the way).
2. Add the side spin and cue elevation needed to produce the end path of the masse curve (see Coriolis for how to do that).
3. Hit the shot as hard as needed to start the swerve where you want (i.e., hard enough to go almost straight that far).

In other words, aim (not squirt), side spin (not squirt) and shot speed (not squirt). Although squirt is minimal in masse shots, eliminating it would still make them easier, not harder.

pj
chgo
End mass to low to do what?
 
I'd love to see your collection of low deflection masse cues...... what's that?? they don't make those?? wonder why not...
Probably for the same reason LD cues don't jump well - i.e., low end mass.
End mass to low to do what?
I don't know whether your claim that LD masse cues aren't made is even true - but you asked, so I theorized.

It's a known fact that jumping is harder with LD; masse is executed a lot like jumping - ipso calypso...

pj
chgo
 
I missed your post. To answer your question mostly LD, but couple felt dead too.

I just want to say that I gave a super low LD carbon fiber shaft a go. It felt amazing, the power was incredible.
You really would have to take a few shots to see the difference. My normal shaft feels dead in comparison.
Still needed to compensate for squirt but a lot less.

I had trouble with some rail shots, and was not running as many racks. Black color of the shaft was a minus.

I gave up on it because I didn't want to waste the stored memory of all the shots. I got scared it would ruin my game.
And most of all I had to restrict my stroke. The shaft was really changing my stroke. Bloody rail shots.
Thanks, you sounded like you had you some experience with them.
I Wonder how this guy got on with his revo shaft. Bearing in mind this thread is from 2017.
 
I did like 20 years on Z shafts. Finally transitioned back to maple. I did literally nothing to adjust and just practice more realistically and play better now.

I kept expecting to miss more on longer shots, but I just don’t notice a lick of difference. Maybe my position is just better now that I never need to do razor thin cuts 8’ down the table…
 
I've been playing pool for about 2 1/2 years now. I'm not the greatest player, but I'm trying to get better. I only play APA, and I'm a 5 in 8-ball and a 6 in 9-ball. I've gone through several cues in the past couple years (11 to be exact. lol) trying to find the cue that I feel is for me. My first was a Poison Black Widow that I wanted so my wife got it for Christmas. From there I've owned a Viking, 3 Lucasis, 3 Predators, a Jacoby, a Schon, and now I have a Pechauer. Almost all of them I had a low deflection shaft with except for the Jacoby came with a solid maple shaft, though I was quick to buy a predator shaft for it and never took the time to play with the maple shaft. I did however like the feel of the solid shaft when I did hit with it a few times. It felt a lot better and more solid with better feedback than all the low deflection shafts. I'm in the process of purchasing a Diveney Sneaky Pete and plan on making it my primary shooter. A friend of mine has a Diveney cue and I love it. It hits and feels amazing. My big concern is teaching myself to adjust to the added deflection that is going to come with a solid shaft. Anyone else go from LD to solid maple? How long did it take to adjust your game and aiming? I know it will be different for everyone, just wanting to get some opinions and feedback.
My opinion. If your not playing competitively on 9' tables, but always on 7 footers. I think the LD equipment is not necessary.
 
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