Coring?
- Thread starter gambler67
- Start date
I think that might depend on how you finish the butt end area.
Weight bolts??
Rubber bumpers??
Missed a shot, blame the cue syndrome.
Butt, meet floor.
Lmao
phreaticus
Well-known member
I’m just a dumb pool player, but I’ve had plenty of SP’s, many varieties- never seen one cored and never seen one split.
Schmelke offers good blanks. They're made out of wood.
Wood.... Has rules.
It really is that simple!
I've seen cues with butt caps, not just sneaky Pete's. Slammed on the floor so hard that not only did the butt cap split but so didn't the wood above it.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
How often did those cues have rubber bumpers?
Always
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Hydraulic pressure is a wonderful thing.
my bacote handled Pechauer never left the dealer case and cracked 2 years after i bought it
I've cored lots of full splice blanks, but never to keep them from cracking. If your buddy is having issues with Schmelke blanks, it's probably on him. Schmelke blanks are well made.
Splitting at the end is what happens when people slam their cue. Without a phenolic (or other strong material) buttcap, it becomes even more likely.
Splitting at the end is what happens when people slam their cue. Without a phenolic (or other strong material) buttcap, it becomes even more likely.
mine was in a dealer case and in a climate controlled room and the handle still cracked, is bacote more susceptible to cracking?
At the bottom of the butt or in the handle?
Pechauer cues are very good but I think thier rubber bumper leaves questions.
Attachments
Apologies gambler67. The thread just reminded me of my experience with some other players who don't understand the ramifications of extreme temperatures and humidity.
actually in the handle not near the butt sleeve
That is unfortunate. I can only suggest contacting the manufacturer. It happened to me once on a sectional snake wood handle but it was snakewood. Beautiful but a tough action wood.
I replaced it.
Good luck!
I too am just a dumb pool player, with many (15ish) full splice SP's from many (12 or 13) reputable cue makers. Only one is cored, it has a maple burl front (macassar ebony rear, it's very beautiful ... thanks to Mr. Omori and Mr. Baxter and Mother Nature).
Dave
Cue vs climate....climate always wins. I have repaired a few ebony snooker cues that came from England and after spending a few years in our dry climate crack and split.
Here is what i have learned about coring. If you want to start coring here are some points to focus on.
To me coring is very cheap insurance. The number one mission is to build a cue that is and stays straight when observed spinning between centers. The extra labor and effort to build a full core butt is well worth it to me because I fall right to sleep at night not worrying about a warped cue or an unhappy customer out there.
I have built 254 cues and the last 163 cues have all been full core with a 3/4" laminated dowel glued with gorilla glue using atomized water on the hand sanded fitted dowel as the catalyst.
I think it is very important to state for new CMs experimenting with coring IMO, when coring wood you should run a lathe speed of around 250 and peck core using shop air. Take your time and everytime you overhaul the tail stock quill to take another purchase, wait for the compressor to cycle. You want all the volume you can get to disapate that heat in the blind hole. It is volume not pressure the removes the heat!
When I first started coring I was spinning way to fast which created too much heat even with the air. I remember cracking a few pieces of ebony to learn this lesson. Also very important, I use a 3/4" centerdrill and penetrate about 1" into the blind hole after facing both sides of the stock. This way when the drill exits the backside it will follow the predrilled center hole and you will never get a blow out back there when the drill breaks out.
So slow and steady pecking using the tailstock quill and 250 rpm turned out to be my answer I was seeking the feed and speed answer. Heat is not your friend when coring in a blind hole.
Since tweaking my core procedure i have not seen or had one cue with a cracked "anything" nor have I had any butts that moved.
With those kind of observation results I am very happy to say I have not built an A jointed cue since 2007. Not knocking A Joint cues here, just stating my preference.
If I were to do one today I would core my forearm and use a 20" 1 3/8 " laminated maple for the handle with the back end turned into a tennon for the butt sleeve and butt cap.
Rick
To me coring is very cheap insurance. The number one mission is to build a cue that is and stays straight when observed spinning between centers. The extra labor and effort to build a full core butt is well worth it to me because I fall right to sleep at night not worrying about a warped cue or an unhappy customer out there.
I have built 254 cues and the last 163 cues have all been full core with a 3/4" laminated dowel glued with gorilla glue using atomized water on the hand sanded fitted dowel as the catalyst.
I think it is very important to state for new CMs experimenting with coring IMO, when coring wood you should run a lathe speed of around 250 and peck core using shop air. Take your time and everytime you overhaul the tail stock quill to take another purchase, wait for the compressor to cycle. You want all the volume you can get to disapate that heat in the blind hole. It is volume not pressure the removes the heat!
When I first started coring I was spinning way to fast which created too much heat even with the air. I remember cracking a few pieces of ebony to learn this lesson. Also very important, I use a 3/4" centerdrill and penetrate about 1" into the blind hole after facing both sides of the stock. This way when the drill exits the backside it will follow the predrilled center hole and you will never get a blow out back there when the drill breaks out.
So slow and steady pecking using the tailstock quill and 250 rpm turned out to be my answer I was seeking the feed and speed answer. Heat is not your friend when coring in a blind hole.
Since tweaking my core procedure i have not seen or had one cue with a cracked "anything" nor have I had any butts that moved.
With those kind of observation results I am very happy to say I have not built an A jointed cue since 2007. Not knocking A Joint cues here, just stating my preference.
If I were to do one today I would core my forearm and use a 20" 1 3/8 " laminated maple for the handle with the back end turned into a tennon for the butt sleeve and butt cap.
Rick
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Pechauer made it right and repaired the cue
heat without lubrication usually never ends well LOL