Dufferin one piece loose at the center joint

SSDiver2112

SSDiver2112

Escott Cues
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I have someone that wants me to fix their Dufferin one piece cue. Where the shaft is joined to the forearm it is loose and has a slight wiggle. Does anyone know how these are joined and is it possible to separate and fix. If not, should I just cut it apart and make a tenon to re-attach. Could there be a metal pin joining them or wood?

Not the actual cue, but same type.

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One piece but loose at joint does not sound right. I’m not a cue maker or Dufferin expert but it’s fixed or 2 piece
 
GoldCrown said:
One piece but loose at joint does not sound right. I’m not a cue maker or Dufferin expert but it’s fixed or 2 piece
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It is a fixed one-piece cue. I am assuming there is a tenon or pin of some type connecting the two pieces together and probably epoxied in place.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
It is a fixed one-piece cue. I am assuming there is a tenon or pin of some type connecting the two pieces together and probably epoxied in place.
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Interesting. I wonder if they’re production cues or someone modified them. If they're loose maybe experiment…. Separate and pin male/female or use a dowel/rod. Following.
 
GoldCrown said:
Interesting. I wonder if they’re production cues or someone modified them. If they're loose maybe experiment…. Separate and pin male/female or use a dowel/rod. Following.
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Yes, it is just an old production house cue.

I am looking on information as to the best way to separate it so I can repair it.

I realize that it can be replaced with a forty-dollar used cue from E-Bay or 50 bucks new from Walmart (although spliced now).
He would like it fixed and I would like the experience.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
He would like it fixed and I would like the experience.
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There ya go. I did a repair for a friend. My costs exceeded the cues value but I enjoyed the experience and will help for future repairs. He asked how much I put out .....but simply told him to invite us over for coffee. Have fun with it. Aside from gaining experience your friend will appreciate the repair.
 
As i recall there should be a screw that connects both pieces. If it is really loose you may be able to turn it apart.
 
Mase said:
As i recall there should be a screw that connects both pieces. If it is really loose you may be able to turn it apart.
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OK thanks, I'll give that a try when I get my hands on it. I appreciate whatever insight I can get. I didn't want to just start cranking on it.
 
I always run a strong magnet over the area if I'm going to cut it, especially in a forearm. Not a 100% solution as some stainless steels are non-magnetic, but I seem to get lucky the majority of the time. Most of the cheaper cues just use steel screws in that area. Saved me a few saw blades! ;)
 
Ok that last post was weird with no explanation.

I tested with a magnet and determined there was no magnetic pin. Also tried to twist it apart with no luck. Finally I slowly parted the two pieces with a jeweler’s saw.

Once apart I was surprised how off center the original tenon was. Going to bore them out and make a new tenon. Update later.

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Next update.

I bored out both pieces to 15mm and then made a new tenon from an old broken cue. The collet slipped while drilling the hole. I knew I had to redo the finish any way, but I still wish it hadn't happened. A leather strap grips better, but it is really hard to control the runout compared to the collet.

Here’s some pictures of the dry fit. Just have to make the glue grooves, epoxy it and check it out tomorrow.

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Looking good!

Shame about the collet slip, you might want to look into the rubberized cloth-backed strips that Gary Langley sells. Nice inexpensive solution for holding the driven part of the butts or shafts. No slipping and no marks of any type since I've been using them. Haven't had any trouble with runout, they seem to be pretty consistent in thickness overall. Much better than leather in my experience. You can find him on facebook.

Be sure to post some finished pics.... I'm just starting a similar repair although the damage is a bit worse. ;)
 
kgoods said:
Looking good!

Shame about the collet slip, you might want to look into the rubberized cloth-backed strips that Gary Langley sells. Nice inexpensive solution for holding the driven part of the butts or shafts. No slipping and no marks of any type since I've been using them. Haven't had any trouble with runout, they seem to be pretty consistent in thickness overall. Much better than leather in my experience. You can find him on facebook.

Be sure to post some finished pics.... I'm just starting a similar repair although the damage is a bit worse. ;)
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Thanks. Didn’t see a way to order so I sent Gary an email.
It’s coming along. Gotta go play some pool now. I’ll finish later. Good luck with yours.


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Great job!

I have two of these style Dufferins. They were like $10 apiece at a junk shop but I really love the simple look of them. They play good. One has a neat burl opposite the maple leaf inlay. I contemplated having it made into a 2 piece sneaky, but it's only 58" so I figured why mess with it. Pretty neat cues with simple yet pretty grain.
 
Sheldon said:
Looks great!
Don't you love putting $100 worth of work into a $20 cue? :LOL:
Sometimes these jobs can be rewarding in other ways though.
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Agreed. It was worth it for the experience and the praise I got when people saw it tonight.

I had a similar thought this morning. Now I know what it entails and how much effort is involved so I can charge accordingly. It was very rewarding to see that old cue repaired and revitalized, so I am very glad I did it.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
Agreed. It was worth it for the experience and the praise I got when people saw it tonight.

I had a similar thought this morning. Now I know what it entails and how much effort is involved so I can charge accordingly. It was very rewarding to see that old cue repaired and revitalized, so I am very glad I did it.
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Great job, looks better than new! Hoping my repair goes as smoothly and looks as good when done. 🤞
 
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