Glue question for gluing cores

Deruki said:
I always reface the joint a couple thou at some point after the pin is in but the last thread would be nice to protect from epoxy.

It sounds like a good idea at the bottom of the threads where that little dab came up the glue relief slot on mine although out comes the dental tools and it looks as good as new. Usually I watch it long enough so I don't have that issue.

On the other hand I know you were teasing me about forgetting something and making me think but I thought and now I'm ready for some advice because I'm not smart enough to remember what I forgot. I know this old man in his basement has plenty of wisdom.
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I use to watch Hogans hero's back in the day.
My favorite character was
Schultz!
 
Deruki said:
Why in the world would anyone use plastic wood appearing type of substance to build a cue?
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why would anyone use CA to glue in a joint pin????
If you have NOT used diamondwood or shot/broke/jumped with a diamondwood cue....you won't understand.
 
Dave38 said:
why would anyone use CA to glue in a joint pin????
If you have NOT used diamondwood or shot/broke/jumped with a diamondwood cue....you won't understand.
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Dymondwood shafts jump really well
Cored dymondwood butts aren't any better than wood for breaking imo.
They are ding proof, I give it that.
But, purpleheart butts break just as well imo.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Tiny gap in the screw =bzzzzz
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This is getting circular really fast. I've put cues together to test with no glue and didn't have a buzz. Maybe it's because of how I do it.

But.... I've seen a lot of jump break cues with a-joints that don't buzz, so the gaps don't matter in and of themselves.

I can't say exactly what causes a buzz, but I've only had one cue do it and I changed my construction right after that.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
This is getting circular really fast. I've put cues together to test with no glue and didn't have a buzz. Maybe it's because of how I do it.

But.... I've seen a lot of jump break cues with a-joints that don't buzz, so the gaps don't matter in and of themselves.

I can't say exactly what causes a buzz, but I've only had one cue do it and I changed my construction right after that.
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There's a reason why epoxy needs to pop when exiting that hole.
I'm not arguing with you.
You can tell the world you had a thousand screws installed and had zero problems.
I've band sawed butts that developed a buzz.
Found voids at the bottom.
Main reason I don't use epoxy in cartridges anymore.
We had a late cue maker here who claimed he didn't put much epoxy on his joint screw as it was not needed.
Then one owner of his cues came out and said his screw buzzed.
When I install my joint screw, I take it off the lathe.
I like doing it while the butt is vertical.
I don't use 5-minute epoxy.
First screw buzzer I held was a Meucci.
Turns out this was a common problem with them back in the 90's. I found out later why.
PS
I've met quite a few who actually don't know to properly tone test a cue. Including one who claimed he tone tested the blanks he sold.
 
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JoeyInCali said:
There's a reason why epoxy needs to pop when exiting that hole.
I'm not arguing with you.
You can tell the world you had a thousand screws installed and had zero problems.
I've band sawed butts that developed a buzz.
Found voids at the bottom.
Main reason I don't use epoxy in cartridges anymore.
We had a late cue maker here who claimed he didn't put much epoxy on his joint screw as it was not needed.
Then one owner of his cues came out and said his screw buzzed.
When I install my joint screw, I take it off the lathe.
I like doing it while the butt is vertical.
I don't use 5-minute epoxy.
First screw buzzer I held was a Meucci.
Turns out this was a common problem with them back in the 90's. I found out later why.
PS
I've met quite a few who actually don't know to properly tone test a cue. Including one who claimed he tone tested the blanks he sold.
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Tone test a cue? What is that supposed to do? I'm not building a flute.

There is a lot of anecdotal evidence and unproven claims in cue making.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
There is a lot of anecdotal evidence and unproven claims in cue making.
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I'll be the first to admit.
Epoxies are one of them!
Those of us that somewhat preach only have our experiences to base our opinions on.
Straight up fact!
I remember what I used 30 years ago and how I did things. On my own cues as well as the cues I repaired. I am more confident now with what I use and why I use it. But I took the time to experiment and research.
The only person all of that really means anything too, is me!
With the exception of 3 quotes from others that stuck in my head, I quote myself instead of using phrases from others.
It's a Journey!
 
Michael Webb said:
I'll be the first to admit.
Epoxies are one of them!
Those of us that somewhat preach only have our experiences to base our opinions on.
Straight up fact!
I remember what I used 30 years ago and how I did things. On my own cues as well as the cues I repaired. I am more confident now with what I use and why I use it. But I took the time to experiment and research.
The only person all of that really means anything too, is me!
With the exception of 3 quotes from others that stuck in my head, I quote myself instead of using phrases from others.
It's a Journey!
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There are many woods that even the thinnest slowest setting epoxy simple won't penetrate and doesn't stick to very well. The harder the wood the less it penetrates. Some woods are close to zero. You can rough them up, clean them with solvent and prep them every way to Sunday but the characteristics of the wood won't change. They simply aren't glue friendly. This IMO is why threading every possible connecting part of a cue is vital.
 
Deruki said:
There are many woods that even the thinnest slowest setting epoxy simple won't penetrate and doesn't stick to very well. The harder the wood the less it penetrates. Some woods are close to zero. You can rough them up, clean them with solvent and prep them every way to Sunday but the characteristics of the wood won't change. They simply aren't glue friendly. This IMO is why threading every possible connecting part of a cue is vital.
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It doesn't end with just wood. It goes for a lot of what we work with.
 
Michael Webb said:
It doesn't end with just wood. It goes for a lot of what we work with.
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I have been thinking of how to achieve cleanly threading cored wood it's entire length on both pieces.

But am held back by how bad my feelings would be hurt when accomplished cue builders tell me what a stupid idea that is and that it serves no purpose beyond what gorilla glue can do. 😟
 
Deruki said:
I have been thinking of how to achieve cleanly threading cored wood it's entire length on both pieces.

But am held back by how bad my feelings would be hurt when accomplished cue builders tell me what a stupid idea that is and that it serves no purpose beyond what gorilla glue can do. 😟
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The problem with threading something the entire length is that the threads will almost assuredly bind. Couple that with the fact that more than seven threads isn't gaining any strength and it's a wasted effort.
 
Deruki said:
I have been thinking of how to achieve cleanly threading cored wood it's entire length on both pieces.

But am held back by how bad my feelings would be hurt when accomplished cue builders tell me what a stupid idea that is and that it serves no purpose beyond what gorilla glue can do. 😟
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Why would you need to tell anyone?
Don't ever hold back when you think something will work. You, yourself will be your own judge if it works or not!
 
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